87MJTIM

Maybe not as impressive, but…taking fence rails and posts to the dump. Tipping the scales in and out.

The blue vacuum line is for the front axle CAD. (I believe.)

The connector near the booster is for a XJ rear window washer pump. Not applicable to the MJ. (I don't know where the other end is. )

I have a wife and daughter that sew. I did not take anything like that in HS. AAMOF, my HS did not offer any home-ec classes. I went to a Catholic all boys school. Classes were all college prep type courses.

The captions says it's an AX5 from an 84. The AX5 was behind a 2.5 engine, not the 4.0. The AX5 will not bolt to a 4.0. Also, the AX15 didn't come on the 4.0 until mid-89 model year. Keep looking. That is not what you want.

There are number of tests you can perform with just a DVOM and a test light. The module just helps narrow down the places to test. The steps are detailed in the 88 electric service manual.

Reminds me of the car magnets. 26.2 - marathon 70.1 - half triathlon 140.2 - ironman triathlon 0.0 - I don't run.

I used these for soft copper water lines with success

I'm gonna say a vacuum leak, also. I will guess that when the computer goes into closed loop, the RPMs drop and the leak becomes more noticeable. Do you have Nickintimedesign's REM? If not, then I recommend getting one. Looking at the vacuum hoses on the engine, I would say there is more than one leak.

That's my neighborhood! Don Phillips closed about 10+ years ago. The dealership changed hands to Tate Chrysler Jeep now.

If you are commenting to me, I have an external slave cylinder (as I stated originally).

The pre-bled clutch system does not have a bleed screw. It is not "easily" bleedable.

An AX15 would have nothing to do with OBD2. The only wires to the transmission is your back up lights.

A YouTube video series (Ucandoit2) has a 3 part AX15 teardown and rebuild. He purchased part #BK163JWS from (I believe) transpartswarehouse.com

Problem! I am having some surgery on my foot the Friday before the show. The Dr. has "suggested" I stay off my feet for a couple days afterwards. I really want to come and meet more CC members. I have not registered my truck for the infield yet. I am not sure.

The barrel on the fire wall is the cruise control servo. That would pull on or back off the accelerator for cruise control. The turn signal stalk would have your cruise control commands. Look under the driver's side lower panel. If there is a yellow box there, then you have/had cruise control.

Not looking to hijack this thread but I want to jump in with similar issues/problems. I installed an AX15 with an external slave cylinder. I have the same issue when shifting into 1st at a stop. When I first start driving, it's "notchy" and stiff to shift into 1st and 2nd. It is worse when I have drive a few miles. I have to shift to 4th, then 2nd (hard), and then to 1st (really hard). I still have really push it to get it into 1st. There is no grinding or other noises coming from the trans. If the truck is slowly moving, downshifts to 2nd are fine. I thought it might be the hydraulic system so I replace the master/slave with a pre-bled system. There was no noticeable change. Since there is no grinding into gear, I am thinking the syncros are fine. (I may be wrong.) Can there be an issue with the detent springs and balls? If these are worn out, could they prevent the shift rails from lining up properly? (Just throwing "stuff" at the wall.) Problems with the pressure plate and disk?

Small world. My wife grew up in Gambrills - Four Seasons. She bought our 87 new from Antwerpen Jeep Eagle in Ellicott City. The dealership did not deface the the tailgate with its billboard, thankfully.

That is just so wrong! I see where it's made, but can't they at least get the number of stripes correct? There should be 13 stripes. One for each of the original 13 colonies/states.

The star bolts at the top of the transmission bell housing take an E12 socket. It’s a reverse torx bit. As for pulling the engine and transmission, what are doing with your truck?

Amish campers

I am thinking a loose part. You may have hit a bump that knocked a wire loose. The tow back home knocked the part back. If you haven’t driven it then the part is still connected. While it’s running (but still cold) start tugging on the wires.

Follow the full thread.

Tuesday June 1, Costco, Frederick MD - $2.759. Other stations close by are $2.90-$3.00

I am not sure what to say about the pink one. “MakenBacon” comes to mind.