DirtyComanche

I'd bet there's people on IFSJA or FSJNetwork that have a vector drawing for those decals, or know a decal place that does... There's a lots of priss types on there that seem to have the most inane things documented. :laughin:

I didn't realize the Renix screws were different. My XJ has a HO throttle body, so there probably isn't a standard screw that fits the Renix.

I'm curious if you took picture of trying to fit it in.

RockAuto lists 3 tanks for the LWB. All are fairly affordable. Take your pick. Or go on eBay.

The bearing will come off easier without the collar being on there for sure. I can't easily buy the collar separate, so when it wouldn't go at that point I just trashed the whole thing out. Most places just cut the collar and bearing at the same time, and using a death wheel or angle grinder is much faster than drilling providing you're good at it. You don't need much of a press to reassemble as long as you microwave the bearing and collar and make sure the axle shaft is cool. I wouldn't take this stuff to any sort of a machine shop as IMHO the risk of them damaging the axleshaft is pretty high (they're going to use an angle grinder to take it apart), and it's not hard to do any of this yourself (even a cheap HF press will allow you to reassemble). Honestly, I would have just run the seals you had before messing with anything. Providing they had some oil/grease on them they're probably still fine.

Cool. I've got a couple of these things so I'll follow along.

Those RC0501 shackles should do what you want. How bad is the pricing on them there through the vendor? There might be better options.

It's going to feel soft. That's the booster working.

I believe a #10-32 will go, or perhaps #8-32... It's 100% wrong though. Although it might or might not be working perfectly fine on my XJ. I could not find a metric fastener that matched out of the stuff at work and gave up.

That's a nice looking front bumper.

And I second going with the older vacuum controlled turbo. However, it really is up to you, if the newer turbo can be controlled cheaply then it may offer other benefits than just the 15HP, eh? Faster spool time, better throttle response?

Is that mini starter something that can be sourced elsewhere if those guys go out of business?

I have the 'correct' tools to pull them. I couldn't do it. I loaded my press to the limit (20 tons) and it wouldn't go. I could have ground the lock collar off and done it, but then you need a lock collar anyways. A Timken Set 10 (the bearing, race, and lock collar) is $30.71 Canadian off Rockauto. That's like $22 US or something. WHY WOULD YOU BOTHER! http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117705&jsn=253 Your races are probably pitted from sitting anyways. You're going to spend $281 on a tool that probably isn't going to do it anyways, when for about $120 you could buy all new bearings/retainers for 3 D44s.

Not really. SKF sells a seal and bearing kit, and there would be nothing wrong with it, but you need more than that. The chain is the big wear part, IMHO. Alloy USA sells one, along with numerous shady eBay sellers, I don't know what the quality is like, and would suggest trying to source an OEM NP/NV chain instead. If you can afford the downtime I'd take it apart and see how things are first. Often the bearings are all fine and a tighter chain and an input and two output seals is all it needs.

I tried to do it on mine. No go. Order the bearings from your favorite parts supplier and don't look back. Timken Set 10 or SKF BR 10.

One of my friends had a "Turdcel". We would get drunk on the weekends and flip it over in his driveway. They're light enough a couple guys can just pick up one side and they go right over. I do have to admit the car seemed to take the abuse well. I'd get an Eagle instead.

I can't imagine having done all that work, and then standing back to look at it and think "Man, that's really really ugly."

I don't see it happening. That's 1.3HP per cubic inch.

Looks like those floor pans fit pretty decent. It's coming along nicely. :cheers:

Check Youtube for tear down videos? Not all the ARBs are built exactly the same, and honestly I've never taken one apart. I'd pull the air collar off and if there is ANY scoring or damage on the sealing surface I'd walk away... Unless you can get it cheap enough to risk not being able to repair it.

That's some interesting info. For a Renix application a guy would have to make a hole/mount for the CPS, or get one of the now non-procurable CPS relocation kits, or perhaps there is some other option. Looking at it, it looks like it would be something of a PITA to swap in a transmission that I honestly don't feel is much better than the AX-15 or NV3550. If they had actually made it a double OD transmission I would be more likely to try it. Now, that said, I COULD put it in my severely underpowered J-truck that currently has a 258/Turbohydraslushomatic-400/CyBorgWarner Quadrainsanity combo. I am debating picking it up either way as if nothing else it can live in the shed (it can keep my spare AW4 company) and be a spare for my JK.

I hate to break it to you, but Novak is wrong as often as they are right. They also don't mention anything about this application (3.8L). Edit. They do mention the 3.8L. My bad. They don't mention anything useful though, other than it will bolt to it with the correct bellhousing. Which could imply that the 3.8L used it's own bellhousing, or that they don't have a clue and didn't want to get pinned down on that one...

I suppose if you defined your goals for the truck that would also be helpful.

If you're feeling play in the pinion either the yoke has backed off, the bearings are shot, it has ate a shim, the races have spun, or a combination thereof. Tear it apart and asses fully. If it's been used hard, or not had the oil changed, I would not be surprised if every bearing is shot. IMHO I'd put a Truetrac in any day over the Trashlock. The 3.73 and down version is inexplicably more expensive though. Gears and a setup kit aren't that bad of a deal if everything is trashed anyways. So you might as well go with a set of 4.10 gears so you can buy the cheaper Truetrac. I used a hybrid of Isuzu Trooper calipers and Ford Explorer rotors for my disk conversion. I do like the results, although it is something of an oddball setup. I also converted to EB 9" wheel bearing retainers, mostly because mine were screwed and I wanted to be different.

I'm getting some conflicting info on this, is the JK 3.8L NSG370 the same pattern as the 4L/TJ applications, or is it the same as the KJ 3.7L applications? I found a low mile JK NSG370 for dirt cheap... No, I don't really like the NSG370, but it could be worth exploring.