DirtyComanche

I wouldn't cut the baffle. It is there for a reason. I would swap the arm for the MJ one, or bend it different, or something.

There is no 'new' sending units for these. They sold you an XJ one.

Proto is the actual industrial grade tool line, and is equal or higher quality than Strap-On. No, it is not made in Chindiawan. Strap-On has removed the "Made in USA" from many of their products to "better represent their global market." I do not know what that actually means regarding COO. The wrenches, sockets, and ratchets are all still USA made.

You're getting closer. Check your brake light switch isn't stuck... Give it a cleaning with some contact cleaner and work the pedal a few times.

I have their the full set of both standard and metric 12 points in 3/8 drive. And maybe a few other odd things. I can only get it through Grainger so it's not exactly cheap. I've got some old Plomb hydraulic wrenches, which I believe were absorbed into the Proto brand. I need to try to track some more of those down actually.

If there's money involved then they might be... It's too bad they killed the Comanche helicopter off before production. It was pretty bad @$$.

What type of paint and quality of paint job are you intending? I like the OEM Colorado Red when it is done right. My parents used to have an XJ in that colour back when it was new.

I'd bet there's people on IFSJA or FSJNetwork that have a vector drawing for those decals, or know a decal place that does... There's a lots of priss types on there that seem to have the most inane things documented. :laughin:

I didn't realize the Renix screws were different. My XJ has a HO throttle body, so there probably isn't a standard screw that fits the Renix.

I'm curious if you took picture of trying to fit it in.

RockAuto lists 3 tanks for the LWB. All are fairly affordable. Take your pick. Or go on eBay.

The bearing will come off easier without the collar being on there for sure. I can't easily buy the collar separate, so when it wouldn't go at that point I just trashed the whole thing out. Most places just cut the collar and bearing at the same time, and using a death wheel or angle grinder is much faster than drilling providing you're good at it. You don't need much of a press to reassemble as long as you microwave the bearing and collar and make sure the axle shaft is cool. I wouldn't take this stuff to any sort of a machine shop as IMHO the risk of them damaging the axleshaft is pretty high (they're going to use an angle grinder to take it apart), and it's not hard to do any of this yourself (even a cheap HF press will allow you to reassemble). Honestly, I would have just run the seals you had before messing with anything. Providing they had some oil/grease on them they're probably still fine.

Cool. I've got a couple of these things so I'll follow along.

Those RC0501 shackles should do what you want. How bad is the pricing on them there through the vendor? There might be better options.

It's going to feel soft. That's the booster working.

I believe a #10-32 will go, or perhaps #8-32... It's 100% wrong though. Although it might or might not be working perfectly fine on my XJ. I could not find a metric fastener that matched out of the stuff at work and gave up.

That's a nice looking front bumper.

And I second going with the older vacuum controlled turbo. However, it really is up to you, if the newer turbo can be controlled cheaply then it may offer other benefits than just the 15HP, eh? Faster spool time, better throttle response?

Is that mini starter something that can be sourced elsewhere if those guys go out of business?

I have the 'correct' tools to pull them. I couldn't do it. I loaded my press to the limit (20 tons) and it wouldn't go. I could have ground the lock collar off and done it, but then you need a lock collar anyways. A Timken Set 10 (the bearing, race, and lock collar) is $30.71 Canadian off Rockauto. That's like $22 US or something. WHY WOULD YOU BOTHER! http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117705&jsn=253 Your races are probably pitted from sitting anyways. You're going to spend $281 on a tool that probably isn't going to do it anyways, when for about $120 you could buy all new bearings/retainers for 3 D44s.

Not really. SKF sells a seal and bearing kit, and there would be nothing wrong with it, but you need more than that. The chain is the big wear part, IMHO. Alloy USA sells one, along with numerous shady eBay sellers, I don't know what the quality is like, and would suggest trying to source an OEM NP/NV chain instead. If you can afford the downtime I'd take it apart and see how things are first. Often the bearings are all fine and a tighter chain and an input and two output seals is all it needs.

I tried to do it on mine. No go. Order the bearings from your favorite parts supplier and don't look back. Timken Set 10 or SKF BR 10.

One of my friends had a "Turdcel". We would get drunk on the weekends and flip it over in his driveway. They're light enough a couple guys can just pick up one side and they go right over. I do have to admit the car seemed to take the abuse well. I'd get an Eagle instead.

I can't imagine having done all that work, and then standing back to look at it and think "Man, that's really really ugly."

I don't see it happening. That's 1.3HP per cubic inch.