DirtyComanche

The windows in the flexplate are what the crank position sensor reads, and that's the basis of how it determines when ignition and injection events are to occur. Obviously ignition advance/retard is modified beyond that baseline depending on the output of other sensors, but those windows and the crank position sensor sets the base timing. If those windows are screwed up the timing will likely be hunting, or way advanced or way retarded. As I previously mentioned, the one my friend had refused to idle properly as the timing was going amuck at that point, but his issue was that the windows in the flexplate were the wrong size, if they had simply indexed the windows wrong that would produce a retarded or advanced state. A timing light will answer this and likely rule out the new flexplate. I think you more likely have a MAP issue or a vacuum leak. I would use brake clean (non-chlorinated) to look for vacuum leaks, and check the MAP output or swap a known good one. But please put the timing light on it first, or at least at the same time.

It's definitely a D60 and not a D44? Semi-float? What's the bolt pattern? I guess you would be able to drill a semi-float D60 shaft for 5x4.5, but it would be kinda silly. IMHO the semi-float D60 is kinda useless anyways, most are still just a 30 spline axleshaft but weigh more and have less clearance than the D44. If you need that much strength you're better off going to a full-float setup and real strength (35 spline axleshafts). Somebody should just buy the whole Comanche.

Rear? Is it special, or just a truck axle with perches welded on at 42"?

$200 for all of them? The only thing I can think of that might be worth it is looking into if you can use JK takeoffs and hitting the buy and sells to see if you can get some nearly new ones for dirt cheap. Honestly, JK takeoff stuff has largely dried up since they don't make JKs anymore, but some is still out there. Otherwise I'd say use the Monroe sizing chart and buy whatever will fit off Rockauto. You can cross reference the P/N back to application there to get an idea of what valving you're going to get, IE shocks for a F-350 might be a little stiffer than what you want.

I wasn't meaning that to imply that he shouldn't continue to tune it after, but all reading I've done suggests that the Neon injectors will outflow his requirements. He will be a lot closer to the ballpark using the Volvo or Ford ones. But maybe not. I'm actually going to change my advice to "try it with whatever injectors you have and change them out accordingly." If you legitimately have no working injectors on hand, then go get some junkyard or eBay ones. (Are you actually planning to buy 'new' injectors?)

Use the Volvo or Ford ones for the Renix, you're not picking up enough airflow to need more.

I only own digital meters.

You can put your meter on the TPS and move it through its travel to ensure output is linear. If it jumps all over it is bad.

There's roll pin punches for driving out roll pins. They're not pointed so they don't expand the pin. Some may have a tiny nub in the middle like a transfer punch to help keep it centered though. Also using something like Knipex plierwrenches often works well for getting a protruding roll pin to start moving as you can get a lot of force on them.

I'm SOA with 3.5" coils. Although those leaf springs don't look quite as flat as mine. Without measuring, who knows, all the aftermarket coil springs work out differently anyways... But it does look higher than 3.5". The sway bar links are also way too long. They will make the swaybar smash into the inner fenders on compression.

The only problem with that is he didn't bother to secure them again. Most aftermarket longer brake hoses are junk. Of course you could use YJ ones or GM truck ones, but relocating the hose end is perfectly acceptable providing you secure it and make sure there is no interference issues. Edit, looking at photo #4 there is something far worse going on with the brake lines and hoses there. That needs a Dakota hose and some proper securing. Looks like the axle vent line has been stuck in the bracket for the brake hose, rather than into the fitting it belongs. And the brake hose and line is just out there...

Yeah. The other thing is that when you key it on it only runs the pump for a couple seconds to prime the system as long as you don't start the engine. A helper or long test leads may be needed to check the voltage because of this. I noticed he said he tried jumping power to the pump, so it may well be that it is just the pump is dead and the voltage reading was irrelevant.

I'm very suspicious of what those gears and helical limited slip are and where they came from. That seller has some other odd products.

I've never had real issues with Stant tstats but I've taken to testing them on the stove before installing them. Also, they have two lines of them, an economy and a OE replacement, but I don't think they actually have anything indicating such on the box, they're just different P/Ns. If it's running cold start with the tstat.

Do you have a wiring diagram for it? I'm on my phone, and don't have my FSM. However I'd go back to the relay and ballast resistor and see what you're getting for voltage there. I think there's a bad connection somewhere and you're only seeing phantom power.

Rear is a regular old SOA (spring over axle) with stock or shorter shocks. I'd change the shock mounts and get longer shocks personally, but depending what you're doing it might not be worth it. Not sure who makes what in the front, but the coil springs and sway bar disconnects look good. Looks like it has aftermarket lower control arms too, which is a good start but might not be the best thing. The track bar and what looks like a drop bracket might not be the best thing, somebody who recognizes it can comment; in general dropping the track bar is a terrible idea no matter what. Rough Country shocks are garbage and I would replace them as funds allow. Post more pics of the control arms.

A friend of mine just got a bad one off Rockauto. He didn't say what brand or P/N it was, I didn't think to ask. He then bought the exact same brand and P/N from Lordco and it was correct. He said the windows were a bit too large and the timing light confirmed the timing was going all over the place. However it would not idle. Knowing him, he probably bought the ATP because it is cheapest. Kicker is that his is a HO, or so I believe. (ATP is cheapest for either)

I'm sure I've done a few, but the one that comes to mind is on my first 99 Dodge the pivot bracket for the shifter (auto) broke both the bolts off the frame, leaving me unable to shift the truck into anything but neutral and drive, and I could only do so by moving it to the extreme ends of the travel. I put two c-clamps on it and jammed it back into place so I could drive it around. I later welded the bracket on. You can see it in this image, just above the upper control arm, holes with no bolts in them at all. I just cut the pivot off when I pulled the cab.

In the link they modded the heater ducting and moved the HVAC controls down. He used the 96 style dial controls because the massive slider style control head wouldn't fit. I'm guessing if you used more of the 97+ parts you could use the 97+ HVAC controls. Sounds like a lot of messing around to get a double DIN in there. I've never seen a double DIN I liked enough to bother...

It's probably mangled. But my ego is stroked, and that's all that really matters.

I got the first right answer.

Mine gets around 20-21 normal mixed driving with a lift and 32s or whatever they are. I reset the tripometer on every tank because I don't trust fuel gauges. O2 sensor, MAP, and CTS are where I would start, along with the standard tuneup stuff like the plugs and rotor. Also check your brakes aren't hanging up and you're not stuck in 4wd, although those are both obvious.

That is normal. The pulley is made by wrapping an ribbed extrusion around the center piece. It's a cheaper manufacturing process.

Depends on what engine you've got and what fuel you're running. Winter blend diesel typically has less BTUs, but it's not by a lot (5% maybe). Running Jet-A I normally saw an increase on the highway in the winter with my 12V and 24V Dodge piles, vs the summer with the same fuel, the turbo really enjoys the colder air. But around town, idling it all the time, constant use of 4wd to not get stuck, etc, it would suck. The dually was especially bad, the extra tires really see a lot of added resistance in the snow. More modern stuff seems to often not like it as much, the emissions systems freak out if the engine/exhaust is kept cold and will actively try to do something about that.

Not to get technical but Help! is Dorman. For future reference on the fuel rail, I undo the rail from the engine and flop it out of the way whenever I can. You don't have to worry about the quick connect fittings then. Obviously this isn't always an option. My XJ just has FI hose with FI clamps on it going to the rail, because it's a HO rail in a Renix chassis and I didn't have the factory lines. That said, the parts to change it to AN stuff are sitting in my Summit cart, I just don't like having that much exposed FI hose. I did wrap the hose in heat shield material though. They're just slipped over the factory bulb in the line (that retains the quick connects). You can actually get the metric (M14x1.5 ORFS or maybe they're ORB) fittings from a regular old hydraulic shop since it's a pretty common fitting apparently. You can then go to JIC (which is basically AN), SAE, hose barb, or whatever. But either way it gets expensive to do it. Even good quality transmission cooler hose isn't cheap.