DirtyComanche

Nice looking Comanche!

I like that steering wheel, too bad it doesn't have a Jeep emblem in the center though. Are you using a specific paint for the plastic pieces of the column?

Yeah, I hear you on the LS swap. I've been itching to pull my 86 out of the weeds to start trying to fit it up for that, as ultimately I think it would make for a lot better truck. But, too many projects and not enough time.

That shop looks awesome, I really wish I could have gone that big when I built mine. So, it's going to turn into a LS swap project?

I feel the same, but once you go to too large of a tire you run out of good places to put a spare, without sacrificing your bed space or massively degrading the already poor aerodynamics.

You need a good knife with the right shaped blade to cut the urethane adhesive out with. Piano wire might work too, but I never had much luck doing it that way. Then you'll need to get all the old adhesive off and clean up any rust or other damage. Then lots of tape to hold it while you glue the new one in. Making some spacers to get the position right would also be a good idea. The rubber 'seal' is just trim, FYI. You can glue it back in if it comes out in good enough shape.

A teenager... Get some pictures of it.

The windows in the flexplate are what the crank position sensor reads, and that's the basis of how it determines when ignition and injection events are to occur. Obviously ignition advance/retard is modified beyond that baseline depending on the output of other sensors, but those windows and the crank position sensor sets the base timing. If those windows are screwed up the timing will likely be hunting, or way advanced or way retarded. As I previously mentioned, the one my friend had refused to idle properly as the timing was going amuck at that point, but his issue was that the windows in the flexplate were the wrong size, if they had simply indexed the windows wrong that would produce a retarded or advanced state. A timing light will answer this and likely rule out the new flexplate. I think you more likely have a MAP issue or a vacuum leak. I would use brake clean (non-chlorinated) to look for vacuum leaks, and check the MAP output or swap a known good one. But please put the timing light on it first, or at least at the same time.

It's definitely a D60 and not a D44? Semi-float? What's the bolt pattern? I guess you would be able to drill a semi-float D60 shaft for 5x4.5, but it would be kinda silly. IMHO the semi-float D60 is kinda useless anyways, most are still just a 30 spline axleshaft but weigh more and have less clearance than the D44. If you need that much strength you're better off going to a full-float setup and real strength (35 spline axleshafts). Somebody should just buy the whole Comanche.

Rear? Is it special, or just a truck axle with perches welded on at 42"?

$200 for all of them? The only thing I can think of that might be worth it is looking into if you can use JK takeoffs and hitting the buy and sells to see if you can get some nearly new ones for dirt cheap. Honestly, JK takeoff stuff has largely dried up since they don't make JKs anymore, but some is still out there. Otherwise I'd say use the Monroe sizing chart and buy whatever will fit off Rockauto. You can cross reference the P/N back to application there to get an idea of what valving you're going to get, IE shocks for a F-350 might be a little stiffer than what you want.

I wasn't meaning that to imply that he shouldn't continue to tune it after, but all reading I've done suggests that the Neon injectors will outflow his requirements. He will be a lot closer to the ballpark using the Volvo or Ford ones. But maybe not. I'm actually going to change my advice to "try it with whatever injectors you have and change them out accordingly." If you legitimately have no working injectors on hand, then go get some junkyard or eBay ones. (Are you actually planning to buy 'new' injectors?)

Use the Volvo or Ford ones for the Renix, you're not picking up enough airflow to need more.

I only own digital meters.

You can put your meter on the TPS and move it through its travel to ensure output is linear. If it jumps all over it is bad.

There's roll pin punches for driving out roll pins. They're not pointed so they don't expand the pin. Some may have a tiny nub in the middle like a transfer punch to help keep it centered though. Also using something like Knipex plierwrenches often works well for getting a protruding roll pin to start moving as you can get a lot of force on them.

I'm SOA with 3.5" coils. Although those leaf springs don't look quite as flat as mine. Without measuring, who knows, all the aftermarket coil springs work out differently anyways... But it does look higher than 3.5". The sway bar links are also way too long. They will make the swaybar smash into the inner fenders on compression.

The only problem with that is he didn't bother to secure them again. Most aftermarket longer brake hoses are junk. Of course you could use YJ ones or GM truck ones, but relocating the hose end is perfectly acceptable providing you secure it and make sure there is no interference issues. Edit, looking at photo #4 there is something far worse going on with the brake lines and hoses there. That needs a Dakota hose and some proper securing. Looks like the axle vent line has been stuck in the bracket for the brake hose, rather than into the fitting it belongs. And the brake hose and line is just out there...

Yeah. The other thing is that when you key it on it only runs the pump for a couple seconds to prime the system as long as you don't start the engine. A helper or long test leads may be needed to check the voltage because of this. I noticed he said he tried jumping power to the pump, so it may well be that it is just the pump is dead and the voltage reading was irrelevant.

I'm very suspicious of what those gears and helical limited slip are and where they came from. That seller has some other odd products.

I've never had real issues with Stant tstats but I've taken to testing them on the stove before installing them. Also, they have two lines of them, an economy and a OE replacement, but I don't think they actually have anything indicating such on the box, they're just different P/Ns. If it's running cold start with the tstat.

Do you have a wiring diagram for it? I'm on my phone, and don't have my FSM. However I'd go back to the relay and ballast resistor and see what you're getting for voltage there. I think there's a bad connection somewhere and you're only seeing phantom power.

Rear is a regular old SOA (spring over axle) with stock or shorter shocks. I'd change the shock mounts and get longer shocks personally, but depending what you're doing it might not be worth it. Not sure who makes what in the front, but the coil springs and sway bar disconnects look good. Looks like it has aftermarket lower control arms too, which is a good start but might not be the best thing. The track bar and what looks like a drop bracket might not be the best thing, somebody who recognizes it can comment; in general dropping the track bar is a terrible idea no matter what. Rough Country shocks are garbage and I would replace them as funds allow. Post more pics of the control arms.

A friend of mine just got a bad one off Rockauto. He didn't say what brand or P/N it was, I didn't think to ask. He then bought the exact same brand and P/N from Lordco and it was correct. He said the windows were a bit too large and the timing light confirmed the timing was going all over the place. However it would not idle. Knowing him, he probably bought the ATP because it is cheapest. Kicker is that his is a HO, or so I believe. (ATP is cheapest for either)

I'm sure I've done a few, but the one that comes to mind is on my first 99 Dodge the pivot bracket for the shifter (auto) broke both the bolts off the frame, leaving me unable to shift the truck into anything but neutral and drive, and I could only do so by moving it to the extreme ends of the travel. I put two c-clamps on it and jammed it back into place so I could drive it around. I later welded the bracket on. You can see it in this image, just above the upper control arm, holes with no bolts in them at all. I just cut the pivot off when I pulled the cab.