DirtyComanche

NorthWest Fab has a yoke that I think will likely work. http://www.northwestfab.com/1310-NP205-Cast-CV-Yoke_p_2409.html You will need to measure your seal housing/seal to confirm, but I believe you'll need a different seal too, as the 1350 flange that's currently on there should take a seal with a larger ID. I think the one they list as going with it (for NP205 application) will likely work, but you would have to measure. Another option would be to get a Dodge 1350 CV driveshaft and change the yoke at the axle end or run a conversion joint.

Yeah. Garbage. Cut it up.

If I get back to a laptop I could post pictures of what my XJ has. It's custom, there's nothing off the shelf that's really flat belly, and even mine isn't. Trying to stuff an acceptable exhaust through a flat belly is a challenge to start with, I'm even more hampered having a NP205 in there. However, it is possible to have a flat belly. If you run Wrangler clocking on your tcase with a slightly raised mount, there isn't any issues there. You will likely have to massage the floor a bit, but not a lot. The actual trans crossmember needs to be totally redone to work with this, and you'll need to go to 2" exhaust to maintain decent clearances. From there it's just a matter of fishing outstrips into the frame rails or welding them on from the outside.

I thought about it for doing an AWD street build. Worth it? I doubt it. And I wouldn't use that Mustang crap. If you're going to bother you might as well get something that actually has decent geometry. Assuming you can make it fit. It's not like the chassis was meant to run IFS and there would be some significant changes required.

I wouldn't try to clean it or throw mystery products in it. It's clean enough. So what if there's some sludge in the pan? It's not hurting anything, use quality oil and change it regularly, you won't have a problem.

In case it wasn't clear, I live in a climate that varies from +40 degrees C to -45 degrees C and I use only synthetic. I'm running Lucas right now because I get the best discount on it versus other oils with my account. I will run any major brand synthetic though. 10w30 all year. The "You can't switch oil types!!!!!!!11!!1!!!!one" thing is from oils of long ago, as in the 1980s. I believe you will find almost all decent modern oils have very similar effects on seals and carbon buildup at this point in time. Diesel oils are much higher in detergent agents though, and thus also have to run a lot more anti-foaming agents, but neither will adversely affect seals. Seals are not kept sealing by buildup on them. Engines you see that have massive sludge build up in them, and some "wise" person will say "Yup, that's what running Pennzoil will do to you" are actually the product of not changing the oil/filter often enough, it being contaminated by abnormal external factors (IE, running a K&N air filter will contaminate your oil considerably faster), contaminated by maintenance issues (very very small coolant leak into oil), the engine oil being subjected to prolonged temperatures outside of the range it was designed for (either by running it too cold, or too hot, for just too long), or using filters that are completely inadequate.

That engine is a beast. Should be interesting to drive!

The zinc isn't in elemental form. It's not plating it because it's melting, it's a chemical reaction.

Are you going to wheel it? Then keep the 92. It's already broken in.

But that wouldn't annoy HOrnbrod, so I just don't see the point.

I'd swap the superior Renix injection system into the 92. Pick up a 89/90 4wd XJ for the donor and just stuff everything in.

When hot enough it leaves a deposit on friction surfaces that acts as a sacrificial layer. Basically as the part wears it indiscriminately sticks zinc onto it to build it back up. IMHO, the issue of the lack of zinc in modern oils is massively overstated. Zinc was there because the oil sucked, the film strength wasn't high enough to prevent the cam from actually contacting the lifters, so something had to be done to prevent it from wearing the cam out. Modern gasoline oils, especially good synthetics, have upwards of several times the film strength of older oils, and you're not going to see anywhere near the number of contact events as with an older oil. Diesel oils, due to their extreme levels of detergents, will always have a much lower film strength than a comparable gasoline oil, thus they still need the zinc to not ruin cams as they're just not that good of an oil. Also, indiscriminately adding zinc to the oil, by using an additive like Camguard, can actually cause you far more problems than it will solve. Zinc actually becomes corrosive in high enough concentrations, and instead of coating the contact parts will attack the metal of them (it's actually essentially attacking it when it coats them to begin with, but it's not doing it that much so the whole thing is more or less in balance). I honestly believe the whole "There's no zinc in the oil and the world is ending" thing basically is the result of internet myth perpetuated by anyone that has any sort of a failure blaming it on the oil not having enough zinc. Yet there's plenty of beater XJs out there that have whatever the cheapest oil possible is put in them, by the worst oil change places in the world, on a "when I've got $30 to spare, don't need a pack of smokes or beer, and actually remember" maintenance schedule, and they're trucking along just fine with less failures than any comparable vehicle. Oh yeah, and throwing thick oil in it so you have "lots of pressure on the gauge" has nothing to do with how much pressure there is at the bearings, or if the oil will actually maintain it's film strength. GM figured it out a long time ago, it's more about flow than pressure. Low oil pressure is a symptom of wide clearances on parts or other wear issues, and adding thicker oil until it's back into spec doesn't do anything to fix the actual issue and is possibly even worse for the engine as the bearing surfaces need a lot of fresh oil on them to remain cool.

They rust there too.

Basic rule of thumb is (for a 4.oh): -Name brand synthetic, although I often use Lucas since I get a hell of a deal on it (I don't consider Lucas a name brand), but no Walmart oil or whatever. Pennzoil, Mobil 1, and Valvoline are my normal name brands. -10w30 year round since I don't like doing maintenance based on a calendar schedule -Always gasoline oil only, no additives beyond what's already in it -Change it at about 5000km because I don't drive that much, but a lot of it is off road or other 'severe' conditions, and that's a nice even number to remember. I debated going to filter changes and top ups at every second interval, but I do like to look at the oil as it comes out. -Use a good filter. Currently I've got a bunch of AC Delco Pro ones. FWIW I've never blown up a 4L. I've tried every gimmick, thicker oil, thinner oil, cheapest oil possible, diesel oil, camguard, ATF, run Fram filters, refused to run Fram filters, swamped it, not change the oil for 4 years, ran it out of oil, ran it with too much oil, overheat it until you're really afraid the head gasket will let go, run a broken tstat so it never heats up, and everything else you either should be or shouldn't be doing. I honestly think it doesn't matters that much on a 4L that's already well enjoyed, pretty much as long as you stay within about 3 lightyears of what AMC recommended it's going to be okay.

Highest ratio numerically? I was going to recommend an Izusu D44 or 12 Bolt. Or an 8.8 with 4.10 gears.

Yeah, they're wrong about as often as they're right. And their parts often don't fit, or have critical design flaws. It's unfortunate because a lot of what they have on their site is taken as gospel.

Interesting. Rockauto does sell OEM parts. And they seem to buy out stores/warehouses/etc and unload the stuff for a lower price if it's not regular inventory items. Wondering if they bought up some Jeep dealer NOS at one point?

It's midyear 89, so if his 88 is a 5 speed with a 4.oh it's got the Peugeot. Scanning the thread it looks like his is actually an AW4 auto right now. Which makes the swap more complicated because he needs the pedal box, and to drill the firewall for the clutch master, and I don't really know what else.

You don't absolutely need to. Just be prepared to cut the hole for the shift tower larger, which I actually believe it was in later XJs anyways. And the tcase linkage might not work right, but that's normal since it's a garbage design. That said, unless you're trying to gain more belly clearance, I'd recommend using the correct crossmember. Also, he specifically needs the AX-15 crossmember, if he has a manual trans in the truck right now it is still likely the wrong crossmember.

Helicopter companies go broke all the time, so you always have to make sure you've got some cash away for when it happens. No point crying about it, at least they timed this so it looks like I should get paid everything I'm owed, which was the big thing that mattered to me. I should be there well after the hurricane passes. But they've had some impressive storms this year it seems, oh well, can't be worse than -40 and sideways snow. Yeah, it's common. No idea what he meant by dual ticketed, could be anything, since there's basically 5 licenses, unless he was an American. Many of my friends have jumped ship over the years in search of more stable work or better conditions, of course a few of them have gone back too because the money is a little too good to turn down when it gets really busy, but overall most guys don't do it that long because it is so unstable. And maybe? I've got a ton of stuff lined up that I need to do around here but you never know. Just over a year with these guys, I'd finally got fed up with the people I was with before (was there almost 6 years). There's going to be a big shock while this gets worked out, since they're one of the largest helicopter companies in Canada. I'm not looking to go back to work tomorrow, since I actually do want to take a break for a bit, but the problem is likely everywhere else will be flooded with applications for a while. However, this company actually was profitable other than they had a bunch of debt left over from 2008/2009 when they really screwed up, they finally just admitted that rolling loans over at unfavourable interest rates wasn't really working, the payments were too much to ever really get ahead on them; so with that in mind there is a good chance that the machines will be bought up or leased to other companies and they will need people. Yup. Might as well.

I could be wrong, but... If you want to be able to use it to boost the battery without having to do anything but flip a switch, that Blue Sea battery isolator/switch that Jeep Driver posted is probably the best bet. However, for actual isolation (not killing both batteries by accident) you would need to manually switch it all the time, as there would be no charging on the second battery unless it was in the 2 or 1+2 position. You could get around this using solenoids/contactors/relays, but they're heavy and clunky and don't necessarily solve the problem as you still need to remember to turn them on or off, or if they're keyed you can have other issues as gogmorgo is saying. You can also cause some issues by having a stone dead battery and a fresh battery in the same circuit, as they will try to equalize and it can cause damage. I'd propose instead that you could use a 13V zener diode to trigger a solenoid that would provide charging, in conjunction with the Blue Sea switch. You could leave the switch in the 1 position unless you wanted to start off battery 2, in which case you could switch it to 2 just to start it and then switch it back to 1 once running, however charging would be automatic on battery 2 assuming the alternator output voltage was over 13V as it would then trigger the solenoid to charge it. You might get some nasty solenoid chatter using this in real life, but you shouldn't assuming your alternator has enough jam and you don't throw a massive charge wire onto battery 2. Or it just won't work for some reason I don't know, but that's how it goes sometimes.

Good! Keep yourself busy with all that stuff, it's time to enjoy yourself.

My employer filed for creditor protection a couple days ago, and the actual ramifications of it have become much more clear today. Already there is lessors demanding their assets (aircraft) back, and the owned aircraft that were collateral for loans are likely to be seized shortly as there is very real risk of them being devalued. Without aircraft the operations tend to grind to quite a halt, or even if we have aircraft they need to be turned around to leave the country for winter work, which costs money (that they don't have to spend) and puts them at risk of not being able to be seized (creditors won't allow that either). So it looks like I'm out of a job. At the very least I'm not going back to work even if they want me, as there is a very good chance I won't be paid for anything since once the aircraft are gone the company doesn't have much. I'm not looking to accept a pat on the back and a plane ticket home as payment, if that would even be offered at that point. In light of all of this, I booked some flights to Maui. Screw it.

Chrysler could have made money on it but favoured their own inferior Dakota. Chrysler has always protected their line of lame Dodge trucks, look at all the interest there has been for a Wrangler/Jeep truck for the last 10+ years, yet they won't make one. AMC had dropped the ball on marketing the Comanche, and it was a victim of bad timing given their financial situation, but it could likely have been saved. As why love the Renix system... Why love the OBD-I HO system? I don't look at it and see any upgrade beyond them having put a fuse box in rather than fusible links, but it doesn't have a knock sensor so it certainly went backwards in that regard. Personally I like having a knock sensor. You'll probably counter by saying this forum is full of nothing but Renix guys having problems, which it is, which is logical since the vast majority of the trucks on here use the Renix system as Chrysler was already working hard to kill the Comanche by the time they went to the HO.

Have been for a long time. About as long ago as when Chrysler went backwards from it in the XJ/MJ. Then they killed the MJ off a couple years after that... Not sure why some people endear Chrysler so much.