DirtyComanche

A fan shroud makes between a 30% and 50% difference in the efficiency of a fan... They're $15 on Rockauto for the newer style one, which is backwards compatible with the old style.

Check the other end of that harness, there's a change in the connectors sometime around there, they went away from the GM Weatherpacks to Chrysler connectors. It's obvious if it's a problem.

I'm assuming a Renix. It's super easy to just go to the junkyard and get the majority of the parts. Well, maybe, the 4.0 HO stuff is now much more common and it uses a different mounting bracket for the compressor. I'd just get the HO bracket. You can buy a new evaporator, condenser, and drier/accumulator for cheap off Rockauto or whatever, or roll the dice on used stuff working (the drier should not be reused either way). Failing a junkyard, find somebody parting out an XJ, guys do it all the time because they can make a few bucks between parts and scrap, offer to buy the whole A/C, brackets, and dash out of it. I've never swapped A/C in so I don't really know how different anything is in the HVAC system. You may need the plenum that the evaporator goes in too along with the heater core, as I believe they're different part numbers.. One way or another the whole dash is basically coming out. So better to get more parts than less and compare as you swap things over. If you were local I could have just given you basically a whole setup from deleting it out of my trail XJ.

Which engine do you have? I would return what you have regardless. It will be hack to install it.

Are those internally or externally regulated? I'm guessing external.

Exactly. Way easier to get the dash controls and evaporator from any XJ/MJ and go from there. Whoever recommended that for a Comanche probably doesn't know what one is. Honestly I think that's the one that's recommended for FSJs, I believe my buddy Rooney is using one in his...

I doubt it.

Why not use the factory parts? They're readily available.

I want to say I've seen that truck before... Probably a member here. I wouldn't buy a lifted truck to return to stock.

Companion flange. The other flange (on your axle) is the pinion flange... So the one that goes with it is the companion. But you will hear adapter flange too... Ford glues the ujoints in so they're rather terrible to get out. The Explorer would have the tight size. Hacksawing the driveshaft is easier if you're at a pick and pull type place.

Did you get a hose meant for that, or just some FI hose? Regular FI hose (or carb fuel hose) is not rated for immersion and will fail like the old hose did.

Wiring? I don't think he needs it, even if the 2.5L has a load compensating sensor.

Is this a manual transmission? Check your clutch master cylinder isn't leaking. It makes the fuse box look like that. And it will cause you far more problems in the long run.

Then as said, clean the ground up first and/or do Cruiser's improvement. You may also want to pull the cluster and check the plug, circuit board, etc, as I've seen them get quite corroded or gross. The whole cluster comes apart fairly easily. Make sure the plug is seated correctly when it goes back together.

You can test the individual sensors fairly easy. At least the temp sensor and the fuel sending unit.

Central Axle Disconnect. On the passenger side of the axle there is a vacuum actuated coupling that only connects the passenger side axleshaft when in 4wd. The theory of it is to save a little wear and tear and fuel economy, as it stops the front driveshaft from being driven significantly while in 2wd. Most people don't like it because it can cause some reliability issues and doesn't seem to make a measurable difference in fuel economy.

You can smash a new ujoint into the axle with it still attached to the hub. It's just more awkward. So no, you don't have to take the big nut off.

It's a fairly universal mount. I put one out of a Dodge Ram in my DD because it's wider, which gives me a better peripheral.

This. And the 51310X look like they're driveshaft ujoints. These are the 260X ujoints for early axles. Rockauto does not have them listed correctly. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4937496&jsn=522

I believe you only got them with the full time tcases. I think by the time they went to the WJ they all got them... But could be wrong. I don't dabble in that stuff really.

That won't tell you if you're overheating from a stuck tstat. Actually, it will only tell you if things have gone nuclear hot and the cooling system is completely saturated.

The factory put the sending unit there for a reason. It's the hottest part of the engine.

They're mislisted. First one crosses to a P/N for a 91+ XJ, other one is definitely a Renix XJ.

When deleting the EGR, it's easier to just use a pipe tap (I want to say 1/2" NPT) to thread the hole in the intake manifold, and then install a pipe plug in it, rather than making a blanking plate and getting a gasket.

The ZJ ones are Cardone 663220 and 663221. Off Rockauto the pair of them is $107 CAD, or $81 USD. If you buy them it looks like a Timken unit bearing ships from the same warehouse, P/N 513107, $88 CAD or $67 USD each. The actual XJ/MJ CVs are Surtrack CH8220 and CH8221, about $50 CAD each or $38 USD. I have never purchased these but they should work, in theory at least, as they should be the ones used in rare applications with the NP229 or 228 or whatever fulltime Tcase. I did not purchase them because A) I have no idea if they actually fit and returning anything to Rockauto is horrible for me because it's cross border, and B) I do not know if they're as strong as the ZJ ones, which mattered to me. If you don't have the money to do the wheel bearings I would just pull the wheel bearing and axle shaft as a unit and put a new ujoint in it, and only on the side that's blown. The more stuff you try to take apart the more likely it's not going to go well. But that's me, everything I work on is rusty and having the stub shafts seized into the wheel bearings is common enough to be a real problem.