DirtyComanche

Exactly. Way easier to get the dash controls and evaporator from any XJ/MJ and go from there. Whoever recommended that for a Comanche probably doesn't know what one is. Honestly I think that's the one that's recommended for FSJs, I believe my buddy Rooney is using one in his...

I doubt it.

Why not use the factory parts? They're readily available.

I want to say I've seen that truck before... Probably a member here. I wouldn't buy a lifted truck to return to stock.

Companion flange. The other flange (on your axle) is the pinion flange... So the one that goes with it is the companion. But you will hear adapter flange too... Ford glues the ujoints in so they're rather terrible to get out. The Explorer would have the tight size. Hacksawing the driveshaft is easier if you're at a pick and pull type place.

Did you get a hose meant for that, or just some FI hose? Regular FI hose (or carb fuel hose) is not rated for immersion and will fail like the old hose did.

Wiring? I don't think he needs it, even if the 2.5L has a load compensating sensor.

Is this a manual transmission? Check your clutch master cylinder isn't leaking. It makes the fuse box look like that. And it will cause you far more problems in the long run.

Then as said, clean the ground up first and/or do Cruiser's improvement. You may also want to pull the cluster and check the plug, circuit board, etc, as I've seen them get quite corroded or gross. The whole cluster comes apart fairly easily. Make sure the plug is seated correctly when it goes back together.

You can test the individual sensors fairly easy. At least the temp sensor and the fuel sending unit.

Central Axle Disconnect. On the passenger side of the axle there is a vacuum actuated coupling that only connects the passenger side axleshaft when in 4wd. The theory of it is to save a little wear and tear and fuel economy, as it stops the front driveshaft from being driven significantly while in 2wd. Most people don't like it because it can cause some reliability issues and doesn't seem to make a measurable difference in fuel economy.

You can smash a new ujoint into the axle with it still attached to the hub. It's just more awkward. So no, you don't have to take the big nut off.

It's a fairly universal mount. I put one out of a Dodge Ram in my DD because it's wider, which gives me a better peripheral.

This. And the 51310X look like they're driveshaft ujoints. These are the 260X ujoints for early axles. Rockauto does not have them listed correctly. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4937496&jsn=522

I believe you only got them with the full time tcases. I think by the time they went to the WJ they all got them... But could be wrong. I don't dabble in that stuff really.

That won't tell you if you're overheating from a stuck tstat. Actually, it will only tell you if things have gone nuclear hot and the cooling system is completely saturated.

The factory put the sending unit there for a reason. It's the hottest part of the engine.

They're mislisted. First one crosses to a P/N for a 91+ XJ, other one is definitely a Renix XJ.

When deleting the EGR, it's easier to just use a pipe tap (I want to say 1/2" NPT) to thread the hole in the intake manifold, and then install a pipe plug in it, rather than making a blanking plate and getting a gasket.

The ZJ ones are Cardone 663220 and 663221. Off Rockauto the pair of them is $107 CAD, or $81 USD. If you buy them it looks like a Timken unit bearing ships from the same warehouse, P/N 513107, $88 CAD or $67 USD each. The actual XJ/MJ CVs are Surtrack CH8220 and CH8221, about $50 CAD each or $38 USD. I have never purchased these but they should work, in theory at least, as they should be the ones used in rare applications with the NP229 or 228 or whatever fulltime Tcase. I did not purchase them because A) I have no idea if they actually fit and returning anything to Rockauto is horrible for me because it's cross border, and B) I do not know if they're as strong as the ZJ ones, which mattered to me. If you don't have the money to do the wheel bearings I would just pull the wheel bearing and axle shaft as a unit and put a new ujoint in it, and only on the side that's blown. The more stuff you try to take apart the more likely it's not going to go well. But that's me, everything I work on is rusty and having the stub shafts seized into the wheel bearings is common enough to be a real problem.

I'm not sure if the ZJ ones will fit directly into his axle because of the tone ring for the ABS. I don't remember when everything changed, but the earlier unit bearings have a different (extra) seal on them which fouls on the tone ring, which is a leftover from when they didn't use a sealed bearing assembly inside the unit bearing. He can either run the newer unit bearings, which may cause issues with how his rotors/calipers are spaced, or just pull the tone ring off. I pulled the tone rings off mine. Those CVs are almost certainly stronger than the early 260X ujoints. They might even be as strong or stronger than the 760X joints, but there is no reliable data on this.

Nuts are supposed to be 1 time use and new shafts almost always come with them. I say "supposed to" because people reuse them all the time with no ill effect.

Yes. Let me know if it works. When shimming the spring inside a very small difference in preload makes a significant pressure difference. I'd assume it will be similar if shimming it there.

I don't know if it would work actually, you might have to turn the pressure down so much that it would be annoying at low speed, and I'm not sure if adding that much shim would keep the regulator functional or if it would just bypass all the time. A guy might need a new spring for that, which could be hard to source. The output fitting in the P/S pump has the pump pressure regulator behind it. You can take the fitting out the pump, it just takes a 13/16" socket or so, then fish out the regulator with a magnet, and then take the regulator apart by clamping it in a vice (use soft jaws, hose, etc to protect it) and undoing the cap off the end of it (1/2" wrench I think). There's a shim between the body and the cap of it sometimes, that's where you would add shim. Conversely, if you shim the inside of it (under the spring) you will increase the pressure. I had pictures of this somewhere. I've only ever turned them up, never down, so I don't know if it will change how things feel a lot. I don't really have data for stock(ish) applications. Normally I crank them up for people because they complain their oversized/badly scrubbing tires make the steering heavy/hard at low speed/in 4wd.

You could also shim the regulator so the pump is only putting out 600-800 PSI. More than enough for maneuvering at low speed, but not a ton for the highway. Would only cost some time and a washer or two.