DirtyComanche

Yeah, no impacting lug nuts on. Just use a torque wrench. Make sure the studs on there are in good shape and long enough too; I had to change out the ones on my rear D44 because they were a bit too short.

Vacuum leak is a good place to start... But could be as easy as the sensor grounds. Or the disty is worn out, or the wires are old, etc. I doubt there's anything seriously wrong with it. Buy it and do all of Cruiser's tips, along with replacing the plugs/wires/disty, and retorque the intake/exhaust manifold bolts. Talk the seller down because of the misfire.

What year is the truck?

I have the G2 adapters. They're cheap, but I don't see any issues with their quality. Just make sure you heed the warnings with adapters. Make sure everything is clean when it goes together, use the locktite, and torque check them within 100 miles, and check them every time the tires come off.

Mine isn't even as complicated as any of the ones that are commercially available. You could buy any generic small rod end for very little money from a good hardware store (the ones I used retail for about $500/each, don't buy them). So far I've had no issues with it, shifts nicely, hits all the gates how it should, hasn't disengaged on me (and I have a motor mount that needs to be changed). If it wallows out the hole in the stock shifter handle I will pull it and put a doubler of some sort on it.

Got the speakers today and threw them in. Turns out there was already some 6.5" Alpines in the door, but they're cheap junk. Night and day difference between them and the Polks. I then realized there is actually rear speakers installed. Hmm. Might have to look into what else can fit in there. Also I should probably change the door pins in the driver's side, and the striker has busted a bunch of the spot welds, and I definitely need a new door seal... That might cut down on noise a bit which would be nice.

There isn't enough of them out there to get an accurate price point. Price would vary wildly depending how clean the rest of the truck is, other mods that were done, and how well the swap was done and with what exact components.

I think this thread had good intention but is probably more harmful than helpful at this point. :doh:

Yeah, I saw they had good reviews and figured Polk generally makes good stuff. I think they should pretty much just drop into the hole in the door anyways, so it should be easy.

The stereo sucks. I'm not picky, but it's like listening to one of those tin can and string dealios back when I was a kid and Al Gore was still inventing the internet. So I'm ordering these: https://www.amazon.ca/Polk-Audio-DB651-6-5-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486969317&sr=8-1&keywords=db651

It's there for driveshaft clearance. If you're not lifted, you need it. There is massive gouge marks in mine because the exhaust was redone without it.

That looks bad. I'd guess there is more to the story though. I'd suggest doing a leakdown test to confirm that there is definitely dead cylinders. Or take the head off and just visual things. If it is dead, find another 4L. The 87-90 Renix version would be the most direct swap, but you can use a HO from an XJ Cherokee or ZJ Grand up until they stopped building them, but be careful with TJ/WJ engines as the later ones have different mount bosses on the block. To make the CPS work if you're using a HO engine you have to retain the flywheel or flexplate you have.

It's alive again, as of this morning. Unfortunately it has warmed up a ton, so the snow is rotting badly, I'm hesitant to really go anywhere 'off road' with it in these conditions. Super easy to bury yourself completely. I'll put some miles on it and maybe there will be guys going for a run next weekend, if I'm still around.

It might be. If your tranny mount is bagged out it will possibly be an issue too. It relies on you having a certain minimum amount of angle to the front driveshaft in order to fit.

You pulled the front driveshaft out to make it easier to work around there?

No tips, but it's a terrible design. Not sure what they were thinking when they designed it...

I find it surprising that the floors are that rotten given that it otherwise looks like the body is pretty solid.

Mine has the height sensing valve deleted, one of the POs did it after a line broke or something. There's a whole thread of people on here that have done it. I've debated going to the XJ proportioning valve if/when I go to a later booster and master cylinder, but more likely I will just go to an aftermarket adjustable one. And yes, unloaded you can lock the rears up. IMHO the rears should lock just before the fronts do, which is certainly what I am getting, but I haven't decided if it's too much or not enough at this point. It's winter here so it's hard to do any testing with real valid results.

So, I'm back. Got the sleeves for the ring gear bolts, and I figured I'd get right pie-arr-squared and order new bolts too. P/Ns below if anyone cares: The sleeves are pretty stupid. They aren't actually long enough to take up the entire thickness of the flange on the carrier, so they kinda just hang out in there rather than definitely being on the shoulder of the bolt... I could have got fancy and put them on the bolt with retaining compound first, but I was more or less done with the whole thing. If the ring gear comes flying off the carrier I will buy an ARB, as Yukon has IMHO more or less dropped the ball with this product. Stupid trick to torque the ring gear bolts, squish the whole thing in the press so it does the holding for you: I also went all out and changed all the bearings in the axle. The wheel bearing retainer plates were completely thrashed, so instead of just putting it back together I figured I'd chance ordering some different ones. These retainers are for a 1966-77 small bearing Ford 9", which is nice because they are much thicker than the Dana ones, and have the cutout to allow you to put them on later; however while the bolt pattern is the same the center diameter was not, but a little work with the die grinder to chamfer the edge was all that was needed. Stock (bent and rusted) retainer, modded aftermarket 9", unmodded 9": Zip locker in and function testing: I still need to clean up the hose routing a bit, put the cover back on, add oil, put the brakes back on the axle, hook the driveshaft up, etc, but it's close. Another thing is that the instructions with the Zip locker leave a lot to be desired in many ways. There is no information about how the switch is to be wired, or anything like that. So here's a crap diagram of the pins on it: Also, Yukon prides themselves in giving you 'plenty of air line, even for a full size long box truck.' I used all but about 26" of it, and that's on a short box minitruck... So while it worked out for me, I could see it being less than ideal for somebody else. I need to pick up some extra hose and fittings anyways, as the push connect airbrake fittings and nylon hose aren't exactly the most robust stuff in the world.

Are these bulbs still available then? Out of stock on Amazon. I'd like to find some decent LED backup bulbs, bought some that were advertised as 'super bright' and they turned out to be dimmer than the stock incandescents.

Nice. Thanks. I'm going to order one up.

Dana what? 35? I believe the D44 is a little longer than the D35 - probably the same length as the 8.25". D60 is a fair whack longer, 4" or so. I run a SYE, and I'm at a similar height (SOA with bagged 2wd springs). Do I need to? No. I wanted it because IMHO the stock output shaft in the 231 is rather weak, and this way if I damage the rear driveshaft I can drive without it. Plus I actually had a driveshaft hanging up on the wall that I gambled would fit (which worked out).

Yup. And consult the warning labels on the inside of the sun visor for more information on causing cancer in California... I'm sure it's in that wall of text along with the 8 million air bag related warnings. If not, it will be in the owner's manual, which is 300 pages of warning statements that the legal team worked very hard on.

I made a thread on here the last time I needed one. Add it to that one for convenience?

Determine what tire size you want first.