DirtyComanche

It's alive again, as of this morning. Unfortunately it has warmed up a ton, so the snow is rotting badly, I'm hesitant to really go anywhere 'off road' with it in these conditions. Super easy to bury yourself completely. I'll put some miles on it and maybe there will be guys going for a run next weekend, if I'm still around.

It might be. If your tranny mount is bagged out it will possibly be an issue too. It relies on you having a certain minimum amount of angle to the front driveshaft in order to fit.

You pulled the front driveshaft out to make it easier to work around there?

No tips, but it's a terrible design. Not sure what they were thinking when they designed it...

I find it surprising that the floors are that rotten given that it otherwise looks like the body is pretty solid.

Mine has the height sensing valve deleted, one of the POs did it after a line broke or something. There's a whole thread of people on here that have done it. I've debated going to the XJ proportioning valve if/when I go to a later booster and master cylinder, but more likely I will just go to an aftermarket adjustable one. And yes, unloaded you can lock the rears up. IMHO the rears should lock just before the fronts do, which is certainly what I am getting, but I haven't decided if it's too much or not enough at this point. It's winter here so it's hard to do any testing with real valid results.

So, I'm back. Got the sleeves for the ring gear bolts, and I figured I'd get right pie-arr-squared and order new bolts too. P/Ns below if anyone cares: The sleeves are pretty stupid. They aren't actually long enough to take up the entire thickness of the flange on the carrier, so they kinda just hang out in there rather than definitely being on the shoulder of the bolt... I could have got fancy and put them on the bolt with retaining compound first, but I was more or less done with the whole thing. If the ring gear comes flying off the carrier I will buy an ARB, as Yukon has IMHO more or less dropped the ball with this product. Stupid trick to torque the ring gear bolts, squish the whole thing in the press so it does the holding for you: I also went all out and changed all the bearings in the axle. The wheel bearing retainer plates were completely thrashed, so instead of just putting it back together I figured I'd chance ordering some different ones. These retainers are for a 1966-77 small bearing Ford 9", which is nice because they are much thicker than the Dana ones, and have the cutout to allow you to put them on later; however while the bolt pattern is the same the center diameter was not, but a little work with the die grinder to chamfer the edge was all that was needed. Stock (bent and rusted) retainer, modded aftermarket 9", unmodded 9": Zip locker in and function testing: I still need to clean up the hose routing a bit, put the cover back on, add oil, put the brakes back on the axle, hook the driveshaft up, etc, but it's close. Another thing is that the instructions with the Zip locker leave a lot to be desired in many ways. There is no information about how the switch is to be wired, or anything like that. So here's a crap diagram of the pins on it: Also, Yukon prides themselves in giving you 'plenty of air line, even for a full size long box truck.' I used all but about 26" of it, and that's on a short box minitruck... So while it worked out for me, I could see it being less than ideal for somebody else. I need to pick up some extra hose and fittings anyways, as the push connect airbrake fittings and nylon hose aren't exactly the most robust stuff in the world.

Are these bulbs still available then? Out of stock on Amazon. I'd like to find some decent LED backup bulbs, bought some that were advertised as 'super bright' and they turned out to be dimmer than the stock incandescents.

Nice. Thanks. I'm going to order one up.

Dana what? 35? I believe the D44 is a little longer than the D35 - probably the same length as the 8.25". D60 is a fair whack longer, 4" or so. I run a SYE, and I'm at a similar height (SOA with bagged 2wd springs). Do I need to? No. I wanted it because IMHO the stock output shaft in the 231 is rather weak, and this way if I damage the rear driveshaft I can drive without it. Plus I actually had a driveshaft hanging up on the wall that I gambled would fit (which worked out).

Yup. And consult the warning labels on the inside of the sun visor for more information on causing cancer in California... I'm sure it's in that wall of text along with the 8 million air bag related warnings. If not, it will be in the owner's manual, which is 300 pages of warning statements that the legal team worked very hard on.

I made a thread on here the last time I needed one. Add it to that one for convenience?

Determine what tire size you want first.

So it's been 2 weeks or so, did you get your tank? And did it fit?

Are you going to buy some preformed floor pans or just make them?

Many have an arrow on the fuel gauge.

I think you can squeeze a 2.5L overflow bottle in by the airbox... Looked like a clean option, although I have been unable to confirm that it definitely fits with the factory 4L airbox. To me it makes zero sense to have the overflow up at the firewall like that (my MJ has a random bottle there from something, I hate it). Likewise using the 91-96? HO versions doesn't work well because it goes where the coil/ICM is on a Renix. The later one (97+?) is also stupid because it goes up by the blower motor or something and is just goofy by nature, plus you've got things that will be in the way already.

I'd paint it first and then bedline it. As to if you want to go over the rails, or to them, that's up to you. I'd go over, personally, but some people don't like the look.

Why? And how did you actually do it?

The reality is this isn't a 300+HP truck. I'd throw those 3.55 axles in. If you can find a set of 4.10 axles, sure, that might make sense, but not if it's a lot of money. If you're thinking about a rear axle swap/upgrade this is the time to do it. I don't know what size tires you have, but most likely going from them to 31s (which probably measure 30.5") will still be an improvement when going to 3.55 from 3.07 gears. Otherwise get used to downshifting to 4th when needed. Contrary to the oft repeated belief on many Jeep related forums, the transmission in a Jeep has multiple gears with the intention that in high load situations it will allow you to downshift and extract more power from the engine, and then allow you to again upshift when the loading is decreased. I know, the banhammer should swing and I become an unperson for dare saying such, but it must be said. The upgraded (Volvo) injectors may make a small difference, but IMHO you're more likely to see other improvements (easier starting, cleaner idle, slight fuel economy increase) rather than any butt-dyno certified power increase. They're worth it regardless and I meant to order another set of them, thanks for reminding me. Swapping to a bigger throttle body will help. I don't know about the intake. My XJ has a HO intake and TB on it, and I ported the TB, but the HO intake really doesn't line up that well on the Renix head so it's hard to say what the gains are there. I wound up doing a minimalist port match job on the intake, but without a dyno or flowbench you're just guessing at if you helped anything or not, and the end result left me less than warm and fuzzy feeling about the amount of gasket contact around the intake. There is some options if retaining the Renix intake, this guy did a vortec 4.3L throttle body swap: http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f64/throttle-body-swap-renix-70mm-6236/ A proper exhaust with a decent flowing muffler is worth a few ponies, especially if whatever is on there is half plugged. Another thing is the actual airbox doesn't have a big enough opening in it to flow nicely. Personally I'm a fan of cone filters and tossing the whole airbox in the trash, but some people prefer to keep it. Just make sure you run a quality filter either way, no oiled K&N type crap (unless you don't care that much about your engine, I admit there is an Edelbrock one on my XJ, but it's on the list of things to be replaced).

The body/chassis harnesses are not directly interchangeable. However it's pretty easy to modify an XJ one to work. I would pick it up of the price is right.

I want to do something similar. What rad are you using? And can you get an intercooler to fit?

Silly. But if it works for them...

But is legal to buy aftermarket lift pieces, etc?

Check the fusible link between the alternator and the ignition relay.