danbyrambler

Wasn't aware of this - - Recalls - Complaints - All sorts of info - Surprised at the number of tire brands http://www.safercar.gov/ It's a good thing we don't get all the government we pay for. :thumbsup:

Fast & dirty vac check - - Cap all vac ports on intake except the one for the brake booster - Test drive - if still does then it's the booster - If cured then it's a one by one for the rest. :thumbsup:

Your type mod would'a been it if I'da thought things out a little more - just for the aesthetics even though that side of the AB is a somewhat obscured view - - My inspiration came from a post somewhere about removing the AB restrictor & I did it to my 87 4.0 - The round insert that's in the AB lid - It's a semi rigid plastic pressed in thing & pretty much has to be cut out - Anyway, when doing the same to my 91 4.0 it occurred to me to relieve the box beyond the 2x3 or so front opening - 3/8 r 10mm hole size to prevent easy access for the occasional mouse that sometimes slips into my shop - Ran the numbers for how many holes needed & Bam! - Fast & dirty mod - Looks like it too, LOL, but it works & was cheap - beyond inexpensive - cheap! - - - - - - Same here for emissions - No bother on older stuff - - I feel it for the folks in California - Tough regs are one thing, but you mix strict with the all too common inspection zealot & wow - their horror stories are legion. :wrench:

Don't toss the plastic BL - - Yours looks to be OK & if similar ever appears in the St Louis CL it's gonna wind up in my MJ - - They will rub through paint/primer pretty quick but whatever BL you spray/roll on should solve that prob - - The plastic doesn't fade or chip & is a little easier to keep clean IMO - - Double protection hurts nada - - I've had 'em in Toyota PUs &'ve been searching for one to go over my MJ's Linex - - - - - - Nice looking build you've got going. :thumbsup:

LOL - From 10 months ago - In for sale & then like I edited "Poor attempt at humor" - - Should've put in the PUB - - - Anyway - It works same way - Doesn't look as slick as yours - - didn't notice any increase in noise - - Don't forget the restrictor - - Its removals been covered here on CC IIRC & If not here then on NAXJA :thumbsup:

Always nice to hear the good stuff - - :thumbsup:

Cut through the top - - Then install a sunroof - - Win/Win! :banana:

Interesting - - - Lot's of Googled slant swap info - Most of it BS/Daydream type - - - Had a Valiant comuter/war car once - Slant & push button auto that could be rolled/push started - othern having a weak battery fora while; no probs - solid no rust r damage - just ugly - wife refused to drive/ride in it - - only reason it was sold after a few yrs - - bought it from a friend after he found a low miles 4x4 plymouth pickup with a slant6 for his DD - He drove that thing for maybe 20 years wi no trouble - - - - - Anyway while looking at Jeep slant swap stuff I came across the willys jeep OHV inline 6 swap - - - It's been done - parts are out there - performance parts are out there - military blocks with the side motor mounts are out there - - Don't need another project right now, but..... :idea:

I changed my BIL's blue CJ seats to black - - - Forgot the brand name but pretty sure it was Rust Oleum & it was a DYE - - Held up well for years - was not a DD, but no cracks, chips, fade, Nada - - - The bad part - - No longer available - - NO vinyl dyes are available to the US general public TMK - - Drug addict/Kids getting high/Saving us from ourselves thing - - - Dye is the only thing I'd use on seats - Could be an upholstery shop could help in selling some real vinyl dye - Dunno - - - - - I've used both SEM and DUPLICOLOR for awhile/recently - - Both good stuff IMO - - SEM usually costs a little more, but has a few colors others do not, such as a maroon for some Corvette interiors (matches the Jeep MJ/XJ darker burgundy color well) - - - Read the fine print & You'll find Sem/D Color are coatings - Made for plastics sure, but not flexible enough for lasting results on a seat. :thumbsup: SEM 15023 is the maroon/dark burgundy part #

Wow - - - Lookin' good - - - Nothing like a yellow engine compartment to highlight the equipment :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Could be a cracked head - I fought the same symptoms for a little over a year once upon a - - Started out slow & kept getting worse - Finally took it to a decent shop & Everything checked ok - cooling system - compression - leak down - sniffer - exhaust restrictions - - Every test OK except immediate pressure upon starting & so it was decided to replace the head gasket since the miles were around 175K & what else could it be - - time chain, water pump etc all replaced also - - - valves were good but head was refurbed anyway & the crack was so small they missed it - Alum head & I don't recall how they said it was checked but afterwards I realized I should have asked if they ran the rad pressure test moren once since both valves on the affected cylinder could've been closed & no/very little pres lost - - - - Anyway, it was back to the shop shortly & after some discussion the head gasket was again replaced & then when the third gasket was being installed by the shop owner the crack was found - - Might want to try the radiator pressure test again if the crank wasn't rotated during the previous test. :hmm:

Lucas Oil 75W-140 Synthetic - - - Forget where I found it some time ago - Amazon or eBay special & then did the Jegs price match - Currently 9.99 Qt Free S&H http://www.jegs.com/i/Lucas+Oil/639/10121/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710510834&catargetid=1784155608&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CKO9wcaZsLgCFenm7AodjC8AAw Need a tightwad emoticon :thumbsup:

IFS! - - - DAILY DRIVER! - - - - - I like the way you think Hornybrod :thumbsup:

Had me guessing also - - - Visions of a pink MJ or men's room mirror in the funny places. :eek:

Not enuff advance is a combustion duration & exhaust valve thing - power & mpg will be down besides elevated temp - not your symptoms - - - - Too much timing can cause heat to build cause of higher cylinder pressure esp under a load like towing or going up long grades - - Too much is usually accompanied by pinging/detonation but not always, esp when it's just approaching whatever you wanna call that fine line between max allow & too much - - I used to run my stuff on the ragged edge of + advance back when you could pull over, grab the dist easily & a little +r- & so on - - only temp issue I recall was a triumph spitfire that ran warm when cruising at 70+ - - Anyway, I'm far from a renix expert - just sayin' - & normally stay away from the shotgun approach BUT, another thing that'll cause hot is a lean fuel mix - If you're right there at the threshold it'll run hot under load & cool down otherwise - spark plugs'll look ok & no pinging - - I've run into this with weber DF/DG carbs which can b adjusted 8 ways from Sunday(2Vs with 4jets each) Lotsa frustration my 1st go round - thought I had a cracked head - - - - Maybe something for the more knowledgeable CC folks to weigh in on. :hmm:

Could the timing be off? - - Sounds like the cooling system's been gone through - - maybe time to look elsewhere :hmm:

UFR! http://www.vanderbrinkauctions.com/auction_images/135/documents/Inventory.pdf

Good link - best IMO is: Wrangler Forum: Diagnosing Death Wobble Also: Thrust angle is seldom discussed in DW threads - It is mentioned, a footnote somewhere & buried deep within Murphy's Law - - Anyway, A crash or PO's bungling can cause TA probs & make setting toe a real head scratcher - should be part of & near the top of every DW checklist imo :thumbsup:

Lots of interior info/expertise & ideas here on CC - - Use keywords seats, dash, headliner & such inna search - - Your project MJs is also great place - - - Check out "The Building of Bucky" & Hayduke's project for a start - Both full of int how to, how not to & light bulb turn ons - - - Also TBB is rumored to be an upcoming Reality show-HBO Mini Series - Forgot which - Think I saw that on NAXJA :thumbsup:

MEIN GOTT! - - - Never occurred to me that my Dodge RAMPAGE could be triggering fears of road rage in others - - I feel so ashamed & remorseful for these past transgressions - - - Will now remove these hurtful, offensive badges & replace with appropriate signage - - chevy LUV decals/emblems come to mind - - - - Will also add bumper sticker with apology/disclaimer & Mea Culpa personalized plates - - - Have also tossed my Yosemite Sam "back off" mud flaps - - - - - Gotta go now, heading to WalMart/Lowe's - Looking for some sackcloth & ashes :bowdown:

100 Miles to an alignment shop - WOW! - Might want to consider this - - Cost of Equipment minus cost of trip minus shop charge makes for a bargain IMO http://www.quicktrickalignment.com/ Saw it on Speed / Truck U & bought the Pro version since I don't need the camber stuff & caster is simple enough without the digital gauge - I like it - besides, It's another tool! - - May add the digital stuff later for my PITA Rampage project - - - Anyway, some good info on the site as well - - - Search is a good tool - Lots of DIY alighnment here on CC & it isn't hard to do :wrench:

If T stat is removed should be no immediate cold start pressure build up regardless of water pump pulling or pushing - - - Lower radiator hose collapsing? :hmm:

Sounds like a cracked head if you're building pressure immediately on cold start up - Like in 30-60 seconds - :hmm:

Saw this on TRUCK U - - - Not about price - Worth it or not - Just their slant on HOW TO - - Mostly for racers but anyway, http://www.quicktrickalignment.com/ Some of their Info/How to: How to Set Toe Properly: You will get better more consistent results adjusting your toe in settings if you go the extra mile to eliminate variables. Before you begin taking measurements, you must insure that the car is ready. Ride heights set, camber and caster set, Ackerman set, air pressure set, stagger correct….you get the idea. You should also inspect the steering components and replace any that are worn or bent. Center up the steering before you begin. Center the drag link or rack so that the inner control pivots and inner tie rods are centered to each other. Tie rod lengths should be adjusted to match you lower control points if possible. String the right side of the car to line up the right front to the right rear. By lining up the right side and starting with the right front in line with the right rear you will eliminate any Ackerman effect that is in the car. If the wheels are turned away from straight when you take your toe measurement the Ackerman effect can add toe out that will not be present when the wheels are straight ahead. Take the time to string the right side and you will get more precise results. Make sure to settle the car and roll it forward just before taking a reading. By rolling forward the caster in the car will pull the front wheels and take any clearance in your suspension components all in one direction. Be sure not to let the car roll back after you have rolled it forward. By rolling the car forward each time you will get more accurate repeatable results. Be sure to roll the car back then forward after each adjustment to relieve any pressure in the tire and suspension components. When taking toe measurements that utilize the side wall it is always a good idea to spin each front tire and mark the high spots on the side wall with a piece of chalk. Jack up the car and spin the RF wheel. Hold a piece of chalk on a jack stand about 1/8″ away from the sidewall. Spin the tire and see if the chalk hits anywhere on the sidewall. If the chalk does not leave a mark then move the chalk gradually closer until you get marks on the high spots. Then find the uniform spots on the side wall and orient the tire so that those points will touch the QT stick when the car is on the ground. Lower the car and repeat the process on the other side. Almost all racers know the difference between toe-in and toe-out when dealing with alignments. However, the many forms of toe can be confusing or misunderstood. Toe-out or toe in can be found in at least one of five main forms: Static. The most commonly known form of toe-out is “static” toe-out. This is where the tie rods are adjusted such that the front tread of the tires to be farther apart than the rear edges of the tires. Ackerman Steering. “Ackerman” is designed into the steering geometry. This causes the wheels to toe-out when the steering wheel is turned. This is why some shops and dealerships refer to Ackerman as “toe-out on turns” (and is not to be confused with static toe-out). Bump steer. The toe-out in this situation occurs during ride motions or body roll. Often the factory will use this to improve transient dynamic handling on production cars. Steering arm. This is a popular trick with round track racers; it is created by having a shorter steering arm on the left spindle than on the right spindle. When the steering wheel is turned to the left, the left wheel is steered a larger number of degrees than the right wheel resulting in toe-out. However, if you turn to the right the wheels toe-in. Slip angle. This is an unusual form of toe-out and can occur at the tire’s contact patch rather than at the wheel. Because the outer edge of the tire in a corner is more heavily loaded than the inside , the outside of the tire will run at a larger slip angle than the inside (despite the name “slip angle,” it has nothing to do with slip but rather the twisting of the contact patch in relation to the wheel). This additional twist in the outside contact patch can result in the contact patches being toed-out. CASTER: Caster controls how well the car turns. If you are looking at your car from the side, caster is the angle of an imaginary line between the upper and lower ball joints relative to vertical. If that line is angled so that the top leans toward the back of the car, that’s positive caster. If the top of the line leans toward the front of the car, that’s negative caster. Positive caster makes the car feel more stable and resists turning. If you are turning a car that has positive caster on both front wheels and you let go of the steering wheel, it will automatically straighten up. Negative caster does the opposite and usually makes the car feel darty. Racers rarely run negative caster. THRUST ANGLE: I missed it if they covered this important part of alignment - - TA should be zero - If not your ride will pull/veer towards the short side during acceleration/power & the other way during deceleration/coasting :smart:

May be a ground issue - - Chrysler used at least 2 suppliers for their radios back when - Excellent stuff for the time - Anyway, on some units the antenna lead is a second ground & the display won't work without it or F's up with poor fender, splice, socket, etc probs - - Been too long since I dealt with these for me to remember the mfg name of the radios using 2 grounds - - - - You could pull it & ck easily enough with a pigtail from radio shack/eBay - just make sure that the volume is turned all the way down if you do. :idea: