Gojira94

I've been AFK since Friday, just seeing the updates now. Very happy you got into it and got the disk sorted out. I was always fond of KDE (KDesktopEnvironment) but getting it installed on most major distros that have left it out of their source repos these days make it more trouble than it's worth. I'm not fond of Gnome but I got used to it on my RHEL laptop. For older systems, finding the distro that works well on the hardware with minimal overhead, with decent performance, with a desktop system you can tolerate is the formula for ultimate success. Sometimes it takes a while to find the one you like. Changing wallpapers in graphical mode can be done by downloading or copying in wallpaper images you like and switching to them in the settings.

If you're in the emergency console/ shell, GRUB has already loaded the OS bootstrap, you unfortunately didn't interrupt it. Sudo won't get you anywhere- it's a preamble to any command you want to run as root, or literally, the 'super user.' Means 'do' the following command as the 'super user.' Here's an example: sudo systemctl daemon-reload. if you want to change to 'being' that root user itself, the command is su, and you'll be prompted for root's credentials. I mentioned LiLO, because it was the de facto bootloader before GRUB was a thing, back in the Linux kernel 2.x days. It's not a command unto itself. What Big_Mark and I are asking about F8 or Esc are keys that can be struck after the power on self-test ("POST") that the BIOS performs, but BEFORE the BIOS hands off control to whatever OS bootstrap resides on the first track of the hard drive. Special keys programmed into the BIOS allow you to do different things. These key assignments vary by the manufacturer of the BIOS (Award, AMI, some OE like IBM, HP, ASUS write their own or customize an Award or AMI .bin file). Things like stop and specify a boot device manually, boot straight from network, modify settings for an embedded device like a RAID controller, enter the BIOS itself to change settings (which you're able to), etc. The critical keystroke here is the one that will let you select the boot device from a list. In your case, something other than the HDD. Big_Mark and I believe either F8 or Esc will halt the BIOS from handing off to GRUB and let you select USB disk or optical drive (which may require a keystroke of its own to launch a menu- remember "Press any key to boot from CD" in the XP/Vista/Win7 days). If you have an old Vista/Win7 CD you can boot from that and use the command prompt from its menu to do fdisk /mbr (which will remove GRUB). Then do: diskpart select disk 0 clean and your hard drive will be effectively blank from track 0 out to the last sector. One last suggestion, since you can get into the BIOS. Look for a setting like "enable option keys" so keys you can hit to halt the BIOS and do other things are available. Otherwise, there may not be any ability to use "F8" or "Esc" to enter a boot selection menu.

By the way, the default timeout for grub, before it loads and displays its business, is 0 seconds. What we used to do with systems at Red Hat was edit /etc/default/grub and change line 1 from GRUB_TIMEOUT=0 to 2. If you can interrupt GRUB, which is difficult unless you start hammering a BIOS option key before it starts, you can get to the emergency console by hitting literally any other key than Enter. From there, you can press e and add rd.break to the end of the line that ends with the word linux, hit Ctrl-x and get the emergency console shell. After that you have to remount the file system read-write, vi or vim /etc/fstab and start looking for improperly mounted filesystem entries or missing devices, fix or delete entries. If your Linux install was working at one time, I'd walk you through this stuff. Since your problem isn't specifically inside Linux, I'm suggesting ways to get around/ behind GRUB and kill it.

I'm running Win7 32-bit on a laptop (IBM T42 - 1.8GHz CPU) from 2005 with 2GB RAM and an IDE (parallel ATA disk with a decent 8MB I/O buffer). It's ungodly slow with anything other than my tuning software for GM LT1 & TBI stuff. It's the disk I/O read/write rate that will make Win10 miserable for you. The only part of a legacy BIOS an OS can possibly write to is the boot block where the handoff from BIOS to OS occurs when it looks to mount hard disk track 0 and let OS take over. Really old computers had a BIOS setting (or jumper) to clear the boot block, as boot block viruses could write themselves there and prevent OS boot. LiLO theoretically could, and GRUB can and does write to newer UEFI-based systems' firmware to make boot entries, as do MS OS Win8 and higher. Being that you have a legacy BIOS (pre-UEFI) system, the boot block is the only possibility I can offer you to check/ clear inside the BIOS, if possible. I'd offer you a free 2.5" IDE drive but the only ones I have left are 12-20GB with 512k buffers and would be all but unusable in anything made after 1997. One last thought - see if hammering Esc or F8 get you into the boot menu so you can manually select/force the boot device (reference here: https://www.disk-image.com/faq-bootmenu.htm).

Y'all are welcome to stop by sometime, I'd love to see what a running MJ looks like up close lol! And I'd be extra thrilled if you took my old front axle with you

The Asus A3000-A3A/A3C models look to be more like 2005, not 1995. Something like that would have full boot from optical drive and USB HDD, where a laptop from 10 years earlier may not have. Circa 1995, OS installation usually began from a boot diskette, which loaded DOS-level IDE optical drive drivers to install Windows 95 or 98 from CD. Hence the guesswork about booting from a diskette drive. All that being said, I'll assume you installed Mint from a bootable USB stick or CD or DVD you burned from a downloaded ISO file. Either whatever media you're trying to boot from now isn't bootable and it's trying the next device(s) in the boot order until it boots from the IDE HDD, which contains the GRUB bootloader, or the optical drive has failed, or it only supports CD, CD-R and it's being fed DVD or CD-RW and the drive doesn't support DVD, and many drives have trouble with CD-RW that's been burned as bootable. Making USB media bootable isn't as straightforward as you might think. I use a tool called Rufus (https://rufus.ie/en/)for this. If you have a CD/DVD burner on another computer you can still make bootable optical disks from standalone bootable ISO images like Ultimate Boot CD (https://www.ultimatebootcd.com/). Last- you won't be able to install Windows 10 on that. Windows 7 or 8.1 (32-bit only) at the highest. I believe that machine has a max of 2GB memory. It would work very well with XP, for an offline use only machine for tuning/ datalogging, for example. Or if you prefer Linux, an old copy of Red Hat 8.0/9.0 "Psyche" or "Shrike" codename distributions (Pre- Fedora era).

Ok last stupid post from me- no diskette drive in that thing? Late era socket 7 Pentium 1 on an Intel 82837EX/HX/LX chipset laptops almost always had one. With USB support in the last of the Intel P1 chipsets, you could possibly boot from a USB diskette drive/Win98 boot (DOS) diskette and run fdisk /mbr, if the diskette drive is borked.

Oops, I thought you had a broken dual boot scenario. If your initial boot screen on power-on has a full screen logo for ASUS, you can hit esc or tab and it will show the POST info (RAM count, CPU ID, disk enumeration, etc. and should show a message that says something like "Press F1" or "Press Del" to enter setup. Once into the BIOS (entirely independent of what's on track 0 of any disk attached) you can find the boot order and set optical drive as first boot device, follow whatever key prompt to enter CD/DVD boot.

What OS in on the Windows partition? XP and older you can boot to a DOS boot disk and run fdisk /mbr to re-create the master boot record.

I'm 1/8 Cherokee, 1/8 African (mom's side), but the 75% western European remainder pretty much makes the 25% invisible. I like cars from all manufacturers and all people from the One manufacturer. So I got this to go on my front plate bracket as an acknowledgement of the people whose name the MJ bears.

My wife spotted member onlyinajeep726 last Tuesday in Clayton, NC. Sent me this pic:

I stand corrected. Thanks for the clarification.

Dorman uses the same part #s for the 3/1 and 3/2 that General does (General is likely their source). 97-555 for the regular and 97-571 for the HD spring. Looks like even Dorman is out of the HD springs on Amazon, but it appears JC Whitney's Ebay store has stock: 97-571_JCWhitney_Ebay

My rig doesn't have A/C so it has the small ball. The glued seam definitely leaks now after 36 years. Dithering a bit on exactly what to use to seal it.

I have no real quarrel with nicopp but prefer the coated lines without any copper content. Not quite as easy for small radius bends by hand but I get by bending it against a socket of appropriate size to avoid kinks. All by hand, no tubing benders. I used about 32' to completely re-create all brake plumbing on my project. AutoZone has the 25' rolls for $28.00 USD.

AGS Poly Armor 3/16" line comes in 25' and larger bulk sizes and stainless gravel guard wire to go around it is ubiquitous. Any decent shop should know how to make a pair of 3 foot brake lines. Ours are 3/8" fittings at both ends/ both sides. I made mine from said bits in about 20 minutes using the old ones as guides for the bends, did them by hand and double flared them with a good handheld flaring tool.

I spotted this one on the way from job #1 to job #2 last week. First one I've seen on the road in as long as I can remember. Only other one I've ever seen is sometimes parked at a commercial address on Hwy 58 about 8 miles east of Kinston, NC. I got next to him at the next light (long light) and chatted him up, all but begged him to come here and add it to the registry. He has a couple early 90s XJs as well. I guessed 91 or 92 because of the badge on the gate. He said it's a 92, but the PO added the HO badge, and it's a 2.5 manual, think he said 2WD, not sure. Straight body with factory rear bumper, unmolested body, no lift, factory steel wheels. Great survivor, don't recall ever seeing this color, perhaps not a factory color.

I've heard that one in reverse - with a porcupine, the pricks are on the outside. This one's not a car, but a corollary to the 'BMW vs porcupine': The difference between wingtips and cowboy boots? With cowboy boots, the bull$#!&'s on the outside.

Definitely. Several years ago I got a pair of rebuilt 80pph for my C1500. Running them vacuum referenced at 109pph@23psi WOT/16psi idle. Very nice conical spray pattern with the Rochesters.

I admittedly haven't looked up the specs on the factory 2.5 injector and don't know the operating pressure but here's a really good resource: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?81-GM-TBI-Injector-size-color-and-part-numbers Important to remember that the GM injectors ran at 12-13psi, except for the 94-95 454s which ran smaller ones at higher pressure. 242ci x .667 = 161.414ci (2.5l displacement in c.i.) Chevy 305ci / 2 = 152.5ci (similar displacement, 305 has 2x 54#/hr injectors) if fuel pressure is in the same ballpark, 12-15psi then yeah.

GM had a butterfly 'pre-choke' of sorts on their thermostatic air cleaners ("Thermac"). The stove pipe warmed the valve, which closes partially in the snorkel section of the air cleaner when it's particularly cold. As the engine warmed up, the valve would close, removing the air restriction + warmer radiant heat from the exhaust manifold, that aided in very cold starts. Last used on the GM TBI trucks in '95.

SBC example- a very small number of very early (1950s) SBC heads had a center water crossover, but the vast majority just carry heat from the lifter valley through a dry center port, or even just radiant heat from the intake face of the center of the head. Prevents carb icing. Mainly an issue above the 45th parallel... Most SBC manifolds for both 'early' and 'late' heads still retain the crossover, including the TBI engines from 87-95. Separate and distinct from any EGR provision on a SBC intake.

Looks like a '68 Satellite in the background of the Firebird pic...

The bellhousing would be $45 + tax + $2-3 environmental fee. I may take the shift tower and stick if it's still there this weekend. I could drop the trans on a 2WD truck without too much effort (famous last words). Couple of ratchet straps under it and long extensions to get to the bellhousing bolts. They're wanting $284 + tax (includes $30 core charge) + env fee for a manual trans. If it was a T56 in question, hells yeah for that price, even though I don't need a T56 or an AX-15 right now.

I guess the first thing is whether the fuel pump is turning on and getting enough voltage. if you unplug the pump connector, set your meter for DC volts and probe the harness side with key on, see what you get. If it's a lot lower than what your battery reads between +/- posts, disconnect the ballast resistor and jump across it with wire instead and see if the voltage at the harness side of the pump changes to what your battery voltage is, or close to it. (That's task 1)