Gojira94

Excellent idea. Now why didn't I think of that?

These things took a CS-130 130mm case alternator. Aftermarket has higher output options than stock btw. A little pricey but I have a comparable PowerMaster CS-130 unit on my 92 C1500: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-48114

Do you have any pics of what you're working with so far? This is an example of the 93-95 F-Body L32 V6:

Turning attention to the front suspension and axle swap, I noticed this. I'd thought before this rig looked a little higher than stock height. Someone confirmed from pics I have sagged out leafs with AAL on the back, rear shackles might be longer than stock, hard to tell. Even before I noticed the springs, I saw that the proximity of the tie rod and steering damper was oddly close: Even with no engine weight on the nose, I thought the tie rod and drag link should sit lower so that begged a look at the Pitman arm, which looks stock length/ drop to me. Exhibit D - the sway bar appears in need of a drop kit (and seriously needs new end link bushings, at a minimum): These upper spring mounts arrived yesterday, apparently more parts are in order to sort out previous shortcuts:

Cool. I'm not the least bit intimidated by re-clocking the trans case. I'm jealous of JZLAJeep, very few XJs at all come through my local yards and all of them have been AW4-equipped and 96 and later, so AX-15 crossmembers are really hard to come by.

Aha. So this is a flat-topper, no additional drop in the center section. Which means re-clocking is an absolute must. But I shouldn’t have to beat up the floor, correct?

I'm looking at making what appears to be a crossmember for an AX-4 or AX-5 work with a YJ AX-15. My 87 MJ was originally 2.5/ AX4, but has been swapped to 4.0 and back to 2.5 before I got it. I'm pretty sure the trans behind the 4cyl was an AX-5. From all I can tell, crossmember 52002328 seems to fit everything offered behind a 2.5 through the end of 1987. 52002329 is for AX-15 89-90. What's going into it now is a 93 YJ setup, as mentioned above. Is there an obvious visual tell between the two crossmembers?

The difference is the rear half of the transmission case. I'm going through this right now/ soon. I got a drivetrain from a 93 YJ and have to re-clock it. The transfer case mounting flange on the back of the transmission has enough meat that the 6 holes could be drilled more clockwise for the YJ or more counter-clockwise for the XJ/MJ. That way all the 231s could be the same for either application and the trans could be drilled for whatever was on the production line. XJ/MJ are 10* counter-clockwise from the YJ orientation. I got a jig to do it. It bolts to the transmission flange where the transfer case would bolt up, and has a 2nd set of holes 10* to the left that guide drilling the new holes. One way of thinking about the difference between YJ/TJ holes vs XJ/MJ holes is like ignition timing. YJ/TJ is clocked 13* BTDC; XJ/MJ is clocked 23* BTDC.

You're right, I got ahead of myself. 91-92 VSS is 2 pins and takes a changeable gear in the t-case or tailshaft housing. 1994 4L60E and GM's T5 read teeth on a gear that's part of the output shaft. A GM T5 would be the prospect of replacing the case entirely to use for 4WD or finding one from an old CJ. And the T5 is probably no better than the AX5 in terms of strength. Though they were offered to fit a 4.2 from 82-86 on the CJs, not recommended. There are AX-15 bellhousing adapters available for GM V6s. But given that the L32 is 160 hp @ 4,600 rpm and 200 lb.ft. torque @ 3600 rpm, and the cost and complexity of using it, makes getting the 4.0 rebuilt finding a used 4.0 or even rebuilding the 2.5 probably a more cost effective answer.

In a "plug and play" situation with no modification, a manual trans PCM would be missing a lot of the auto trans parameters, though the tables would be there. There is a Flag set for auto trans that causes all those tables/ flags/ scalars to be read with a 60* 4L60E from 94-on. Speedo calibration and gear ratios would be the worst of your tuning. The pulses per mile in the VSS has a table to figure it against the gear ratios of the transmission, this is true for both auto and manual, and they are different from each other. To use a factory HO speedo, which works off a VSS, could be made to work, though not sure how to approach it without some thought and research. Also, the PCMs aren't locked so VIN isn't important. Though it can be easily read from the PCM and changed.

The PCM choices from 93-95 are: 16172693, 16184164, 16184737, 16196397. Which one do you have? FlashHack for L32 can be used to retrieve the calibration and programming the PCM with any of these. You'll need an ALDL cable to connect to it. 94 should still be a 12 pin OBD-I interface. The shortcomings of the L32 right now at least is the lack of widely known/ supported definition files, which show the hex code in the PCM in human readable form in an editor like TunerPro RT. There is a well-known datastream definition for it which would allow you to datalog/ observe powertrain data. There are definition files out there on gearhead-efi.com and I can certainly assist you in getting what you need to edit the calibration if it's necessary. What transmission are you planning to run with this combo? That might really only be the thing you need to change, i.e. turn off auto trans features if running a manual. If engine and trans are from the same car and you can make it fit, you'd really not need to change the calibration much, if at all. EDIT: I see you said "flywheel." so it's manual of some sort...

Finished product- I may replace the last segment of the vent line. I used the last of what I had and was a little short but then found another small piece of the same 7/32” in my toolbox. the loop that holds this line is still there and in good shape.

The cover on the side of the sender slides off so you can clean the internal elements. Spots of higher than normal resistance indicate buildup of grime. Before cleaning it read 2.4 to 146 ohms with a really big jump between 80 and the upper limit stop. After cleaning it now reads .4 to 91 ohms, very smooth across the sweep/ range. Empty should read as close to 0 as possible because the low fuel light comes on at 5 ohms and turns off above 16.

One more Siemens-Deka for Ford, on the larger end: 4F2E-A4B - 236cc/min@43.5psi, 12.6 ohm, 4 hole, USCAR connector; (192/199/223cc@29/31/39psi) for Ford 'Essex' 3.9 and 4.2 2 valve pushrod V6

I remember the ads for the Eagle when I was in Jr High school. The IROC wasn’t a thing yet and the early fox body Mustangs had restored the honor of the Ford pony cars after the Cobra II debacle. For some reason I really liked the Eagle, with its high stance and sensible looks. And you’re right, you’d better give everything you pull off an old vehicle proper treatment, even if it takes a week to run down what you need to do it right!

Great Scott!! I forgot the before pics.

Here are some of my favorite candidates. For those with USCAR connectors, you can get a set of 8 Jetronic to USCAR connectors cheap on Amazon. And I'll translate the 3 bar ratings to 29, 31 and 39psi as well. Larger: Bosch 0280156162 (Ford 3M6G-BA) - 240cc/min@43.5psi, 12 ohm, 4 hole, USCAR connector; (195/202/227cc@29/31/39psi) might be a tad too big, can't 100% confirm they're not "v-spray." Similar to the Neon injector: Bosch 0280155703 (Chrysler 5277739) - 241.3cc/min@43.5psi, 12 ohm, 4 hole, Jetronic connector; (197/203/228cc@29/31/39psi) A little on the smaller end: Bosch 0280156007 (Chrysler 04861454AA) - 219.1cc/min@43.5psi, 12 ohm, 4 hole, USCAR connector; (178/184/207cc@29/31/39psi) very good match Goldilocks: Bosch 280155972 (Chrysler 53031099) - 232.1cc/min@43.5psi, 12 ohm, 4 hole, USCAR connector; (189/195/219cc@29/31/39psi). Here's why I like this one so much - the application. It's the injector for the 3.7L crap EKG engine. Its displacement, power and torque specs are very close to the 4.0: 3.7 EKG - 210 HP @ 5200, 235 lb ft @ 4000 1987-90: 177 HP @ 4500, 224 lb ft @ 2500 1991-95: 190 HP @t 4750, 225 lb ft @ 4000 1996-01: 190 HP @ 4600, 225 lb ft @ 3000 2001-06: 190 HP @ 4600, 235 lb ft @ 3200 Similar VE, similar fueling requirements... And a Siemens-Deka for Ford: VDO FI11363S (Ford 4L3E-B4C) - 220.5cc/min@43.5psi, 12 ohm, 4 hole, USCAR connector; (180/186/208cc@29/31/39psi) for the Ford modular 4.6 SOHC like 02-11 Lincoln Town Car.

The author of the jeepforum thread hasn't responded or granted me access to his Google drive repo as of yet. In the meantime I've been putting together some research into the original injector. Flow specs are well known from real-world testingso there's a place to start with that. I can't find (after 2 weeks) the impedance rating on the original Siemens-Deka but it has to be in the low 12s ohms. That gives a guide to follow to keep battery voltage offset close to the originals. Anything above 12.6 ohms I'd not even consider, as pulse timings would be up the creek and unknowable. All references below to flow in cc/min are at the benchmark of 3 bar/ 43.5psi, not 29, 31 or 39: A forum member shared that the 241cc/min 12 ohm Neon injectors (0280155703) as being too rich after warm-up. Also said that the 200cc/min 16 ohm 702s (0280155702) were lean under load past 3000RPM. So I'm tossing both of those out of consideration. I believe a close to 12 ohm 4 hole EV6 in the 218-232cc/min range is what I'm looking for. Now... Bosch injectors come in one of 2 types, in terms of spray pattern: conical and 2-spray. These are sometimes also referred to as 'cone' and 'v spray.' The first type is straightforward to understand, and maybe what we're really shooting for. The cone can be 15, 20 or 25 degrees (in all directions from the centerline of the nozzle disc/ plate. Bosch expresses this as 80% of the fuel mass coming out falls within the cone, with as much as 20% falling outside that zone. 80% inside a 15* cone, or a 20* cone or a 25* cone. You get the idea. Why is this important? A narrower cone goes further before diffusing outward (think shotgun effect- muzzle choke vs none). The target is the intake airstream, shooting from the injector boss to roughly halfway between the center of the intake port cross section and the intake valve seat. Shoot the best mass of atomized fuel into the exact right spot to mix and enter the intake valve, with the most efficient shot you can make. This makes best power, torque and fuel efficiency, as long as the mass of fuel is correct, and it's timed right. The ECU will learn and adjust to fuel delivery, though it doesn't know what the fuel pressure is or how much fuel mass moves through the injector (except the one it was programmed for!!). Second type of Bosch injector (buckle your seatbelt, Dorothy...) splits the spray into 2 separate narrow streams. These 2 streams are also cone shaped but don't get hung up on that. This type keeps 50% of the fuel mass of each 'single spray' inside a 7* cone (half of half per pulse), with an arc between the center axis of each 'single spray' of either 15*, 20* or 25* (narrow, medium, wide). "Why the hell would you want to do that?" you might ask. Well, if you have 2 intake valves, splitting the fuel volume and getting it better directed to each intake valve would make very good sense. And the narrow/ medium/ wide choices allow you to tune for the distance from the injector boss to the sweet spot in the intake runner cross section just above each intake valve seat. Here's two more curveballs- 1) you can lean those 2 'single spray' streams from side to side, getting better aim at your intake valve if the injector boss angle isn't optimal; 2) you can rotate those 2 'single spray' streams about the center axis of the injector. I'm going to look at the injector boss to intake seat angle, but I think it's a pretty straight shot on the HO and late HO intakes, at least. I don't have a Renix intake in my possession. Not that a lot could be gained for the 2-spray type on the 4.0, as those are the Bosch "Motorsports" injectors that are custom order, with one very small flow rate and a number of very large flow rates. Though you can get them any way you want for the 2-spray type and whatever ohms, Jetronic or USCAR connector. This isn't for us, really, so further pursuit will be of the cone/ long type (long = 60.6mm from o-ring to o-ring).

Fuel tank stage 1- the top half. I went ahead and shot it before it could flash rust. Flap disc, wire wheels and Dremel for the tight spots at the filler neck. Then rubbed down with acetone. EDIT: the grommets are the old ones. I put them back in upside down for painting. Top side is larger diameter and will get a smidge of aviation sealer under it to seal & protect it. Or I could use OxGard...

The vent/ rollover valves were fine and work great. The grommets are cracking and the bottom side of the bed showed a few small spots of evaporated fuel. Found a pair on Amazon for $9. I'm happy not to have to spend close to $350 on a tank and pump/ sender. Looks like the worst that could happen is needing to buy a good quality MPFI pump if this one won't make 39psi.

Finally got around to dropping the tank and checking the pump and sender. The outside has patches of rust scale that will come off ok but the inside was a pleasant surprise. The sending unit is accurate per my meter and the pump runs well. Not sure if it's a TBI or MPFI pump, as there's no number on it anywhere. Looks new-ish. I'm hoping it's a FI pump since this truck reportedly had a 4.0 in it somewhere in the past before the 2.5 was dropped back in. We'll see. There was about 8.5 gal. of fuel in it that smelled stale but not bad. I pumped it out with the pump in it and put it in my '03 Accord with another 4 gal. of fresh 87 non-E. Easier than trying to dispose of it somewhere.

I got the final arrangement for front accessories mocked up. I had a 99-01 intake in the parts pile that came with the drive train purchase that matched the PS bracket so I'm swapping over to it. Everything now comes back off for cleaning and painting before install/ final assembly. The belt I used is 74". It's snugged but not all the way tight so it should sit in almost the exact middle of the adjustment range once the belt is tensioned correctly.

I stumbled across this thread on jeepforum from 2017. Guy said he got a good portion of the code dumped and he put a number of docs on his Google drive. I’ve requested read access to what he has. NickInTimeFilms and Cruiser54 had replies to the thread as well. https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/tuning-renix-bendix-ecu.3959225/

I guess what I'm seeking is just one part of the Renix calibration(s) to understand the characteristics of the original injector, as applied by the OE engineers. Fueling, with injector characterization at its core, is the literal foundation of all EFI tuning, period. Nearly all the sensors in an EFI system, with the exception of the obvious (knock sensor/ spark retard for detonation, etc.) tell the engine management system what adjustments are needed on the fly to manage control of the injector, based on facts of how the injector behaves. Facts about how the injector behaves is determined first by its design, and second by empirical observation/ testing and applying those facts as scalars, constants and tables in the calibration for a given application. I'm not looking for a way to turn the Renix ECU into something like a flash conversion of the 727/ 747 GM ECMs like the EBL Flash II from Dynamic EFI. Creating a standalone system with more modern sensors, wiring and parts would be far easier and cheaper. But understanding what's in the 'tune' would further understanding about diagnosing, improving drivability, reliability and even emissions on the Renix EMS platform. For me personally, I'd just like to be able to compare the original injector to almost anything else produced since. Doing a disassembly of any calibration and creating a definition framework to lay it out in human-readable format is difficult, time consuming and is admittedly beyond my own skill set.

What I'm after is the hex for: table for injector offset vs battery voltage, a scalar value for the injector constant, and if it exists a table for a low pulse width adder. A bonus would be a table for spark advance (probably a simple RPM vs MAP). A whitepaper/ datasheet on the 53003956 would be over the moon... SAE.org has a number of old papers from 1984-1988 but they're $33 each for full text and I'm not convinced I'd find calibration-level data there. Someday, maybe a pile of this old development data from that era may be unearthed but I'm not optimistic. I just want to select an injector with characteristics close to the 53003956, with a better spray pattern. Trying to avoid settling for an injector that 'works fine' but yields high NOX or HC due to a poor match to the way the factory injector is characterized in the Renix ECU calibration. Interesting old article from April 1989 about Bendix and what they were doing in the 80s with the new "Deka" injector https://www.dailypress.com/news/dp-xpm-19890410-1989-04-10-8904120150-story.html The biggest customers for Deka injectors are Jeep, which offers them as an option on its 4.0-liter engine, and Chrysler, which will offer them on its 1990 3.3-liter engine. "That order from Chrysler alone was for 2.2 million injectors annually, which more than doubles our business," Perry said. Here's a sample datasheet for a modern Siemens injector, in the same format Ford publishes for their Bosch-sourced injectors: http://www.usa.vdo.com/media/747298/fi114961-slope-offset-worksheet.pdf