Gojira94

We have THREE Volvos... 2005 V50 2.4i - wife found for oldest daughter's first car; I did timing belt service kit, struts/ upper bearings, oil breather/PCV unit, tires, interior leather recondition, engine mounts, rear sway bar links, overhead interior lights unit, vanity lamps wiring repair. It has the exterior fuel pump control module, that went a few months ago; found one at LKQ for 29.00. Good car, reliable. 2008 V50 T5 - I found this one on Craigslist with a broken t-belt; 110k miles. Got it for 1,100.00 Guy and his mother went to Sweden and bought it and had it shipped back (that was a thing apparently, then). 530.00 for head work including all new valves/ guides/ seats/ light resurface/ pressure test. Pistons that got hit only had light kisses. 155.00 top end bolt & gasket kit. Tow was like 125.00. I recall that for < 2000.00 all in minus tires, it was back on the road. I did an interior restoration so it would be perfect and prepared to put a sign on it for 6500.00... until my oldest daughter saw it and wanted it. Since my middle daughter now also needed a car, I gave her (oldest) this one and middle kid got the 2005 2.4i. 2010 XC70 - wife's car. She calls it "Sharky" because of the fin antenna. bought at private sale for 11,000.00 with 62k miles on the clock. She's driven through 2 additional sets of tires and 2 all-around sets of brakes. Ironic my first car was a '74 Volvo wagon (thanks ma!). Now I'm maintaining 3 Swedish wagons lolol. The 2008-12 P1 (C30, C70, S40, V50) platform shares the turbo B5254T7 that's in your model year S60. Very fun engine. Your S60 is a beauty. I've always wanted a white car, never had one lol. The 80 is top notch classy. My compliments.

The horn contact ring has 2 nubs on it that work the 2 plastic plates that rotate against each other that make all the clicking inside you hear when signalling/ turning. There are tension springs wedged in those plastic plates that can break or fall out. That's problem #1. Problem #2 may be caused by bits of problem #1 interfering with the leverage point at the stalk. You'll have to get in there to determine how far both issues go. All of it is pretty well available GM stuff. The writeup in a post above has all the pics and details of how to get it apart:

Actual fuel weights (tank not included), for the curious: 16 gallons of .740 specific gravity pump gas= 98.568 lbs. 18 gallons of .740 specific gravity pump gas= 113.96925 lbs. 23.5 gallons of .740 specific gravity pump gas= 144.7718 lbs.

One sanity check suggestion, flip the rear wheels. Tire inflation and treadwear might ought to be eliminated. Or if you prefer the jackass answer (I'm good for those) put 180 pounds in the driver's seat and measure again (just joking there but ideas are ideas). EDIT: If it didn't have a cap on it I'd say get in the back and bounce the hell out of it with a couple grown dudes. Otherwise maybe load it with another 200# of stuff and do some speed bumps at low speed to get the leafs to settle and see how it looks in a week or two. If you have concerns, alert the vendor NOW and follow up after settling can occur.

My door panels were already blemished where a PO used drywall screws to mount 5.5" speakers so I expanded the holes a tad and went with Sony XS-R1646 6.5" 4 way speakers. Found rear speaker mounts and am putting Sony XS-R4646 4"x6" 4 way speakers in the back with bass blockers at 300Hz for cleanliness/ distortion blocking. Completing the trifecta with a Sony DSXA415BT ("Digital Media Audio Receiver with Bluetooth & Satellite Radio"). I wanted decent sized door speakers for that big mid-range punch, a lot of bass not so much. I used 4 of the Sony Walmart 4x6 speakers and a Dual TBX10A powered sub in my '92 C1500 a while back and have been very pleased with a system that cost a hair over 200.00 USD 3 years ago. Sturgill Simpson's 'Ronin' and 'Remember to Breathe' sound AMAZING through that setup cast over Bluetooth, even with the cheap Dual head unit. But that's a much larger extended full size Chevy cab... If you need speaker options that fit like factory in the doors, get the best quality 5.25" you can for that midrange/ top of bass range, add 4x6 in the rear with 300Hz bass blockers and see how you like it before bothering with a sub in the small cab of an MJ. As stated earlier, you can always add an 8" under the seat sub later. Crutchfield sells head unit u-wire-it to the head unit adapters to plug aftermarket into the factory harness so you don't have to cut up the dash harness. They also sell front and rear factory speaker connector to speaker wiring for a clean install.

I've lusted after many more than I've had... Had/ gone now: 1974 Volvo DL145 wagon 1982 Chevy Malibu wagon (V8 donut-mobile) 1981 Volkswagen Rabbit 5-door diesel (manual) 1984 Toyota Corolla hatch (damn I miss that car) 1987 Honda Accord DX hatch (great f'n car) 1993 Pontiac Firebird base (L32 V6 auto) 1988 Buick Skyhawk Custom 2-dr notch (2.0 OHC I4 auto) Still have: 2003 Honda Accord EX manual (my daily, owned since new, 320k miles) 1994 Firebird Formula M6 (looks stock, highly modified, 443FWHP, 77k miles) 1992 Chevy C1500 (412FWHP highly modified TBI build) 2008 Volvo V50 T5 (oldest daughter's car, 237HP, rebuilt Craigslist basket case, 110k miles) 1987 Jeep Comanche (current project)

But I've also got the C punched out... And there's 1 in the grid section. Could be the C stands for March, which would be the correct month, if the 1 stands for 1st half of the year, with a 2 possibly indicating the 9th month on another truck. And production beginning in 86 (G). And maybe the grid wasn't used and it didn't matter where the 1 or 2 got punched. Except Classy Comanche's pic shoots all this down. I've got 2 diamond punches and a 1, he's just got 2x E. And my plate doesn't seem to dovetail to any of these paint/ body codes specific to my truck: APA MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE PE4 Colorado Red QE4 Colorado Red Body code TL61 So the A-P is a 16 character sequence and the grid is 6 grouped but separated characters, and not sequential. Maybe they're chassis/ drivetrain option designations assigned to the body, designed to be read from the bottom of the body hanging overhead on the assembly line, I don't know... whatever it is it was installed prior to paint.

I'll start- Probably a good idea to post saved pics instead of links for posterity, since you know the internet is ephemeral. 1969 Ford Galaxie 500 Coupe VIN # 9N60Y148826, LKQ Raleigh/ Clayton, NC 02/27/2023

I bought a bent one on Fleabay for $40 and had a local fab shop straighten/ brace weld it for me for $20. It was hell finding one in any condition for less than the crazy prices mentioned above.

I inquired about this a while back, nothing came of it. Mine was at the junction of front lower edge of left sender and sub-brace behind the headlight.

I saw this orange MJ again tonight. Passing by around 7:30, it was dark and I had my daughter in the car so I didn’t stop to see if the owner was about (it’s a business address, looks like a seed and fertilizer outfit or something). I really want to meet whoever that is and take a look at his (or her) MJ.

It’s out- cleanup can now begin lol EDIT: clean up the frame, engine bay and wheel wells- not going to reuse this axle. Same guy who took the 2.5 engine is coming to get most of the 2WD equipment I'm pulling. The 2” bump stops aren’t horrible but I’m going to replace those with longer ones anyway. The shocks I wasted others’ time identifying are junk. The rears are probably the same way.

And the finished product...

I use a rabbit cage bottom pan for disassembly work for stuff like this- available at Tractor Supply/ Agri Supply for $17-25. This is the larger size. Get everything apart, clean parts in a open-top catch pan, clean up the rabbit tray and start going back together (it's cleaner than it looks lol). Taping off in prep for one more external solvent/ brush cleaning and then paint: The ball bearings all looked the same, had to mic them to tell the difference, but once separated into 2 groups I could see the difference.

Getting the case cleaned up so I can take it apart, all the markings I could spot on it:

Ok, time to get back to work after a couple weeks of mental masturbation over lift options and plans... I can't remember the last Saginaw steering gear I redid, but I took a chance on getting this one apart and seeing if it was worth a rebuild. Top plate stamp messed with my head a while, most of the documentation on markings is from the 60s-70s. 7A085 I think means year ending in 7 (1987), A for I don't know what, followed by the Julian date code 085 for March 26th (4 days before my MJ rolled off the line). This is the nastiest box I've ever personally dealt with:

@tugboat95 I've seen a fully restored MJ, don't know the year, about 8 1/2 miles east of Kinston on 58. I make the drive from Clayton to EI quite a bit and I used to see it almost every weekend. It's orange. I haven't seen it in maybe the last year or so, but it was what pushed me to find the MJ I'm working on now. The guy's got what looks like a Renix or early HO XJ (red) on blocks, either for parts or set aside for work). Also a burgundy WJ is there a lot, looks like a daily.

He's asking 10k, probably a good buy at 6-7k for no visible rust, 81k original miles, all factory: https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/d/clayton-1980-jeep-j10-sportside-4x4/7586510045.html Posting pics for posterity since ads disappear.

One idea to throw out there - SPDT switch; position 1 is power to fuel. Position 2 it completes a supplemental circuit to the (air) horn, with an open triggered closed on the ignition switch or some other circuit the thief will activate by trying to start it. EDIT: I think I stole Ohm's idea (great use of the built in behavior of the ignition switch and start sequence) by way of incomplete reading on my part... I think his idea still works if hotwired at the switch wiring on the column. My idea was thinking hide the switch and second circuit to a second horn somewhere underneath and let the ignition switch close the circuit to the (second) horn once armed at the switch with fuel turned off.

That looks like an early-80s 110. Buddy of mine in Charlotte had one when I was in junior high school. Major hijinks on that thing...

General Spring 97-555 is the standard load 1280# spring, 97-571 is the ton/ heavy duty 1700# spring. $149.99/ $199.99 each, respectively. Interestingly, Dorman part numbers are exactly the same. General charges quite a bit for shipping, but the Dorman re-branded units sold on Amazon mostly ship free. For ride quality I'm eventually going with the standard duty springs with a Rocky Road SOA 6" rear lift. About $635 altogether, with new springs and the shipping on the Rocky Road SOA kit. With the $500 Rusty's 4.5" springs you're still SUA and putting those springs SOA would give 8-9" lift (too much in my book), quality concerns aside. Standard duty $136 Heavy Duty $254

Spotted today: https://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/d/creedmoor-dana-30-dana-gear-set/7585268601.html

Such a familiar piece of kid tech! Sadly my youngest aged out about 18 months ago. I have 2 in college and one in 5th grade. All girls!

Agree. I almost feel like the OP is at a disadvantage with a bare block. Easier to get a complete engine with harness and electrical for <1k and swap that in.

Well, yes and no. 6 bolt mains, a lot more webbing than Gen I/II SBC for sure but with a couple of exceptions they're all powdered metal rods and HE pistons. With the pistons being the point of failure when something goes dangerously lean with a power adder. Lift a ring land and the magic smoke goes out. Freiberger and Co. did a 'boost it till ya kill it' test a few years ago, thinking they were testing a 5.3 and discovered at the end, having thrown 2 dyno runs at 29psi at it, it was a LR8 4.8l. If you consider 15-17psi 'high boost' then yeah, they'll take that for quite a while with good tuning. North of 20psi and it's on borrowed time, regardless of tune/ intercooler with stock rotating assembly. ANY stock Gen III/IV/V SBC will eclipse HP and TQ numbers from a stock or moderately built 4.0. and be cheaper than a 4.0 based stroker.