Gojira94

Yeah, once your memory starts to go, you can forget it... "I heard there are 2 sure signs you're getting old- one, your memory starts to go, and the other... well, I forget." Interested to hear that my (donor engine) 93 YJ cover is different from the Renix cover. Hadn't thought of that. And I wonder what's different from the HO XJ aluminum and ZJ aluminum cover? And are they in any way different from the 91-95 YJ cover?

LCA pockets cleanup - 1st pass. Metal looks good. Passenger side: Driver's side:

Dana 30 is 100% done. New ball joints, bushings, 5-760X u-joints, new unitized bearings, inner axle seals, pinion seal. The dust plates were trashed after dragging it onto a wheelbarrow in the boneyard back when but they cleaned up and straightened out. NOS RE1383 3" lower bump stops, If they're too much with the ACOS on a 6" lift I'll back down to 2". Next task is the Rocky Road control arm drop kit and then front suspension assembly. I'll ask this in the tech forum, but if anyone is running OME 2934 springs, is one different/ shorter? I've seen mention that a 10mm spacer is needed " for the pasenger side." IDK... And yes, those Dorman hub bolts have to be shortened about 4-5mm for acceptable clearance from the wheel studs. 40 grit flap disc made short work of that lol.

Just looked it up. No longer produced/ available - this support block for the Saginaw 800 was in MJ and XJ. Until you asked, I'd have just assumed it was on both from 84-01. It's aluminum, so I'd guess the bolt that holds it would be the only thing to rot away over time. 52000881 BLOCK 34201193 SCREW I see it for XJ up through 1996 on models with and without power steering, 4cyl and 6cyl. whether it was in the 97-01 XJ only a trip to the boneyard could tell, as it's not shown or listed for those years.

A little progress over the weekend. Some time with a flap disc, Duplicolor DE1634, 1635 and POR-15 TopCoat DTM lol. I have one more knuckle to clean and re-finish and then onto the housing. Then reassembly. And then (holy crap) I can have a rolling chassis again. As a first time Jeep owner, I was disappointed to learn this is non-serviceable. New Moog stuff, for now. Surprised that they don't come painted. Oh well. DE1635 to the rescue. Factory diff cover on this 99 XJ axle is thicker and stronger than I'd have expected.

Which ICM did you get? Mine’s original and I’ve wondered who makes a decent quality replacement if I ever need one.

My thought as well. The rubber foot at the bottom of the sending unit/ pump assembly on mine was rolling around when I opened up my tank. The fuel return empties out the bottom of the metal tube the rubber foot is installed on. If that rubber isolator/ locator gets dislodged, I could see a lot of vibration/ noise transmitted through the tank.

The leftover nubs from the sway bar link studs were a b@$tard to get out. One pressed out, had to drill some of the other one to get it press out. Now at the point where I can clean up the housing and put it back together, at least.

Pulling apart the boneyard Dana 30. Came from a good looking 99 XJ. The U-joints were no good and no way I was going to trust the ball joints or hubs. Everything on the outside is fighting me. Hub bolts had red loc-tite on them. I had to savagely beat the hubs out of the knuckles lol. Ball joints were a PITA but came out without an impact. Inside, everything is really really good. Ring gear backlash is between .007" - .008". Pinion bearing preload is right at 14 in. lbs. Carrier bearings are silky smooth and cherry. It's almost like this axle was never off-roaded, which is pretty much what I was looking to start with. Inner axle seals were so good I could re-use them (but I won't).

Steering box install- it's always a victory when something I fixed or rebuilt vacates the spot in the house it's taken up for over a year lol. I decided to wrap the undercoat up to cover the area where these boxes tend to soil things. This one shouldn't leak for a long time. I had to work the shape of the step in this piece to properly fit the seam it sits on top of in the front of the steering box. Then covered it in undercoat as well. New Pitman arm boot (was not nearly as cheap as I'd have liked it to be). Old brace/ new brace. The yellow zinc bolt is M14x2.00x90mm, with a lock nut. The shanks of the bolts that came with the IronMan brace were too long, not enough thread with the washer supplied. So I reused the pristine factory bolts and just added the extra.

First, welcome to the forum! Second, please post the VIN number so we can add it to the registry, one or two of our members can pull some information about its origin and a high-level list of original specs. For the AC: first big item you'll need is the air box assembly inside the dash. I'm in the same boat as you, my 87 also came with no AC. The boxes are different, as there's no room/ provision for a location for the evaporator. Best advice there is to look for an AC equipped donor XJ. From that you'll need the dash controls, possibly the vacuum harness that'll be attached to the HVAC box. Also of course a new pair of low & high pressure hoses, compressor, condenser, plus more things I'm not thinking of at the moment. There should be a capped off plug on the driver's side inner fender well that could be used to essentially copy a dealer-installed AC setup and run all the digicals: Others should chime in and add all I'm forgetting. And again, glad you're here.

Apologies, points of clarity questions... 1) Aside from the length/ shape of the bars, XJ front and rear checks are otherwise the same as each other? 2) If #1 holds true, the 97-01 XJ checks are preferred, due to their 'rubber cushion included' design? 3) MJ bar can be swapped into either 84-96 or 97-01 XJ checks, front or rear, with the same result?

I'll throw this out there if it helps any with the Camaro - None of the 93-95 L32 cars (or 93-95 LT1 cars) had BCMs. Those showed up in 96. They do have a VATS module, though. Old GM Pass-Key II system that had a resistor pellet in the neck of the key. http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html

Asking $15,000 on FB Marketplace. N. Central NC

Very well stated.

Old 258 3.75 bore x 3.895 stroke, 5.875 rod (258.11 / 4.2L) 87-90 YJ 258 crank snout same as 4.0 crank snout, earlier ones are longer Our 242 4.0L 3.875 bore x 3.414 stroke, 6.150 rod (241.57 / 4.0L) Base 276 stroker (stroked, with shorter 258 rods, no additional bore) 3.875 bore x 3.895 stroke, 5.875 rod (275.61 / 4.5L) 281 stroker (base 276 bored .040 over) 3.915 bore x 3.895 stroke, 5.875 rod (281.33 / 4.6L) 284 stroker (base 276 bored .060 over) 3.935 bore x 3.895 stroke, 5.875 rod (284.21 / 4.7L)

From what I've been able to learn about the Renix ECU, it does have a static 'fuel map' based on stock 4.0 pumping characteristics. This is essentially a table of RPM vs manifold pressure (MAP), with a matching injector pulsewidth. That can't be changed by any known means in the Renix ECU. So if we change the displacement upwards, for a given RPM vs MAP, more fuel is required. The ECU will fire the injectors for the length of time in this table. The O2 feedback will show lean so the short-term fuel trims will add additional pulsewidth (injector open longer) to try to correct it until it gets it right. With stock injectors, the percentage of time the injector spends open ("duty cycle") increases. Generally we don't want to exceed 90% duty cycle, with 80-85% probably ideal. So we look at either bumping fuel pressure a bit (returns diminish more quickly for an injector this way, as it begins to affect the spray pattern) or going to a larger injector (delivers more fuel at same pulsewidth). Sizing a larger injector can be tricky. You'd want one with a good spray pattern at the chosen or stock fuel pressure without being too rich at idle. Ohms resistance determines how long the injector takes to open and begin delivering fuel. Renix expects to deal with injectors at 12 ohms. Higher ohms, say like 16, would take longer to open and begin delivering fuel, so the programmed pulsewidth wouldn't result in a cylinder starting to get fuel until later in the injector open/ close cycle. And then close before the expected amount of fuel is actually delivered. Or worse, still be closing but not closed, and sending a small remainder of fuel toward the intake valve after it's closed during the compression stroke (wasted fuel/ excess fuel for the next intake stroke). This is seen as a 'still lean' condition so even more fuel is commanded, arriving late, compounding the issue (shows lean, smells hella rich, poor fuel economy, compromised power). Guys do Renix strokers without problems, but there's a LOT to think about to get it just right. Switching to the 91-95 7120 head is popular, and so is adding a mild cam, though not necessary. But the 'whole hog' effort delivers the benefits guys are really after.

A wealth of good information here. Thanks for taking to time to record all the part number details. I was fortunate enough to harvest about 4’ of all the wiring for both pumps and the low washer sensor. @Airborne Janitor has a write-up on how he added wiring to that without having to add pins to C100, which I think will be the route I take as well.

Looking for bolt-on gains on the Renix system has diminishing returns with a stock engine, but it's true that a few bolt-on mods can yield an additional 8-12 HP and 12-18 TQ. It can deal with more airflow and corresponding fuel via injector pulsewidth and O2 feedback. I see numerous internet threads that indicate Renix can deal with larger displacement strokers as well, as long as airflow in/out ("VE") and fuel are matched well enough for Renix to make it stoich. My own engine is an HO from a 93 YJ and will be running on Renix with all the required sensor substitutions for it. I'm also going to be running a 99-01 intake because it came with the drivetrain and it matches the PS pulley setup I snagged from the boneyard for $8. Also going to have a CAI, bored TB and full 2.5" exhaust. I snagged some good Bosch 228cc/min injectors to try on the cheap, to see how well it matches the VE requirement of this particular arrangement. Not looking for significant gains, I expect a good-mannered engine with approximate mild gains stated above.

Saying this may make me sound like the annoying kid in The Polar Express... TB spacers only really have any benefit in systems that either introduce fuel above the plenum (carb, TBI) or early per-bank batch-fire systems like the 92-93 GM 5.7L LT1 ('fogged plenum'). No help whatsoever in systems where fuel is introduced just above the intake runner of the head, especially really short head intake runners like the I-6 heads. An engine is a pump, and at maximum it'll only draw air through itself at the velocity dictated by the head/ cam(s)/ valvetrain, barring restriction at the throttle plate and exhaust. A great flowing intake won't help a restrictive exhaust, and vice-versa. Minimal restriction at both ends allows the heads/ cam(s)/ valvetrain to operate unimpeded at their inherent volumetric efficiency, as good or as bad as that might be. Swirling air in the plenum won't change the nature of what's going on at the intake valve on the 4.0. A spacer on a TBI 2.5L with good flowing exhaust and a cool air charge would see a slight improvement though. Engines make peak torque where volumetric efficiency peaks and, coincidentally, where the least amount of timing advance is needed to meet the point of MBT (maximum brake torque). Nothing changes that, short of changing characteristics of heads/ cam/ displacement or forced induction. And then, adding more fuel via bigger injectors, less restrictive induction and freer flowing exhaust are 'supporting mods.' A taper at the inlet might increase velocity and turbulence in the plenum. However, valve events control the pressure waves produced backward into the intake runner and outward into the exhaust runner, and pressure waves are more pronounced during intake/ exhaust overlap. In short, any swirl/ velocity are of no use if they're halted in the manifold runner/ head intake runner, as air there moves at a rate dictated by the valves. At that point, velocity and swirl are governed by the combustion chamber design, and how efficiently the charge moves out of the exhaust valve after combustion. At which point the exhaust system becomes an important consideration to keep the exhaust pressure wave/ exhaust gasses moving. Needing some amount of "backpressure" is a myth. You can restrict the exhaust a bit to band-aid poor velocity upstream (think cam and heads too big with too little dynamic compression/ "lazy ports") but an efficiently designed engine doesn't need it. Longer intake runners do make more low RPM torque because of consistency of volume and momentum of incoming air, at low RPMs. A spacer only increases the effective plenum/ runners' length by a neglible amount, anyway. None of the Jeep/ AMC/ Chrysler I-6 heads have a very efficient, fast-burning head. This means more timing advance is needed to complete combustion by 12* - 14* ATDC (where MBT lives), as compared to a more efficient chamber design. The Edelbrock head has that more efficient, faster-burning chamber, but it's for a completely different build than stock with some bolt-ons like we're talking here.

And it's official... going 6 - 6.5" lift. OME 2934, ACOS, SOA with new leafs, 15x8 -19mm offset black wheels wearing 33s. RRO CA drop brackets are on the way. Everything else is in hand and ready except tires and wheels. I saw a member on here who used a wooden jig and engine hoist to lift off the bed- don't remember who you are but thank you for the idea!

Undercoating done in the fender wells. I left the bottoms of the frame rails uncoated. I figure it's easier to deal with scuffs/ scratches/ scrapes in paint rather than a rubberized coating. If I change my mind about that, it's easily done. Frame horns painted up to the front plate, inside and outside. All that remains of paint on the front third of the rig is DE1635 on the front crossmember. (And the lower cowl...)

If the other end goes to the blower motor it's the blower's cooling tube. Older years have the blower cooling tube drawing air from the interior very close to the motor. That line looks to be just above and inboard of the evaporator drain line. Decently cool air there.

One fender splash shield mocked up for fitment, fairly decent. Deciding where to draw the line on the frame for the supplemental undercoat. I think I know how I want that... Engine mount brackets and track bar brace are in...

Thanks guys for the links- I do have one from my non-tilt black column like the one GrandBoost98 linked. I really like the faux cap screw style from whatever years that is/ are on the gray column I picked up.