pizzaman09

I have overheated an engine in a Mini to complete melted down destruction. It took driving it without coolant for a few hours on a cold day. The sounds of it, I bet you just lost a head gasket, though it is possible that there is more damage like pistons scuffed.

Eh, check your air filter, could be a bad PVC, the big hose coming from the valve cover to the intake.

I've had a spark plug ceramics crack on me and missfire. I've also had boots burn through and arc to the block. Might as well check the distributor cap and rotor.

I just wanted to update in case someone found this useful. My fuel smell at high rpm during hard acceleration turned out to be a bad catalytic converter. A big chunk of the cat element on the input side was broken, rotated sideways and blocking gas flow. My mechanic had found the issue by hitting the converter and listening to it rattle. I put in a new Magna Flow cat and now the smell is gone! On the plus side the rattle is gone too. Additionally there appears to be a bit more power through the mid and top of the rpm range.

I'm surprised mine doesn't have one. It was owned by the original selling dealer for 15 years. Then they sold it to a previous employee that had his own corner car lot of which I purchased from. Must be because they had just had it painted, they were kind enough to provide me the original 4.0Litre badge.

That's some serious luck. Each of my friends that collect those magnets have Brent's Comanche.

They are not machine screws but more of a wood screw type.

I'm not sure what you've had apart, but I'd check the intake and exhaust bolts are tight.

Does is restart right a way or does it need some time to come around before it will restart?

That tire you have specified on the 19 inch wheels is smaller in diameter than the stock 225/75 R15 that came on many Comanche's, so I would imagine it would fit nicely even lowered a fair bit. The 245/40R19 is 26.7 inches in diameter vs 28.3 inches in diameter for a 225/75 R15.

So awesome. I like the slider setup a lot and am dreaming up ways that that could be used to improve control of the rear under load.

Due to weather the turnout was less than normal but still a great show. Found a great Cherokee County to park next to. The manual turbo Plymouth Voyager was my favorite of the show.

That tent looks fantastic. I was dreaming of one when I went camping with friends recently, to not have to be in the ground is so nice.

It's possible that the clutch master cylinder or brake master has leaked down the firewall, wreaking havoc on the fuse block. Being an 88, the C101 connector under the hood should be cleaned. I'd recommend starting with any of Cruisers tips that are electrical related, there are lots of grounds to clean and a few upgrades that make circuits more likely to work.

I used Autotempest for all of my Comanche shopping. It is effectively a search engine that pulls together all of the common sale websites. My first Comanche had an issue that was covered under my compressive insurance. The adjuster had first told me his system said it was worth $200. He asked me what I paid for the truck, which I had purchased the week before, that was $5600. This was 2018 with a 1988 4.0L sport truck with 175k miles on it. Now I am confident that truck would be even more valuable. The adjuster said he would set the value at $5600 which luckily covered the repair it needed.

Now it all makes sense. That is a cool alternative to a shackle.

For anyone nearish Pittsburgh, PA, I'll have my Comanche at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix International car show in Schenley Park on August 3rd. This show is a must see if you are bored of car shows with just American cars from the 60s and 70s. It is primarily European cars but all are welcome. The show usually attracts around 3000 cars.

Aluminum is an odd choice. No isolation and concern of galvanic corrosion. Nice and stiff though.

A rugged looking one for sure! What size are those steel wheels, they look giant to me?

Actually mine was reading 0.6 most of the time I took the reading but at the instant the photo was taken it measured 0.7. It sounds like your coil at least similar to mine and mine works great.

I do very much want to do this. I frequently hook my truck up to trailers or move heavy trailers around, a selectable 2WD low would make it much easier. My CAD system is about 70% reliable, I think it jambs the collar on the axle too far over for 2WD mode and get is stuck on the splines. Sometimes I have to rev the truck up real high and snap the throttle closed to generate enough vacuum to actuate it, other times it shifts instantly and easily at low vacuum levels. That said, I imagined a rocker switch on the dash that operated a solenoid that would either block the vacuum to the diaphragm or switch the input and output of the diaphragm.

On mine the stud backed out completely, so I just purchased a grade 8 bolt and threaded it in. Also if the back one is missing, I bet the rest of the lower ones are loose, check to see if they are tight.

When I purchased my truck they were all loose and the lower back one was missing. It had the same symptoms your truck has.

I know you've done the smoke test but did you check to see if your intake/exhaust manifold nuts are tight or if they are even all there?

Measurements between all posts. I suspect this to be the original coil at 266k miles. Works perfectly.