pizzaman09

Are you not supposed to have a full sized spare on the winch style?

I'm a BMW guy at heart, and absolutely love this build. Not only is the engine an awesome choice but your truck is awesome too! Looking forward to hearing that you have the shift program sorted out.

@robfg67Nicely done!

Super awesome!

Spotted this one on vacation today in Flagstaff, AZ. Appears to be a 2.5L 1986 if I was to follow the visual queues.

I've welded a cable like that for a choke on another car. You might drill a small hole through the side to weld through to the cable. I did one small zap with my flux core mig and the. Ground off the extra weld.

I have the euratech lights. Up or down is on, middle is switched with the door switches or headlight rotary knob.

It looks like you are missing the cupped spacer.

Yep, and it worked! In retrospect I might have unscrewed the handle on the side and slid it down in the slot to allow the cable to have a bit more wiggle room prior to then zip tieing and then putting it he handle back in place.

That's the problem my seat had. No I kind of found a way in from the bottom of the back and zip tied the cable sheath to to frame with one zip tie, it fixed it perfectly. It's been 2 years since I did this so I don't remember the details other than I really kind of felt it out more so than saw the cable, doing it blind with my hands.

Very sad indeed. His legacy will never be forgotten helping those with Renix Jeeps.

When it does stop running, can you check to see if there is any fuel pressure in the rail? Alternatively you could put a timing light on and see if that is what cuts when it stops running.

One could jump the ballast resistor and see if that allows it to run. It's definitely in the vicinity of the area if swapping slave cylinder parts.

Build is linked below. I used the factory fog light circuit and switch that was already there. Someday I might connect it to the correct circuit such that it can be turned on at any time instead of just when the low beams are turned on. You might find someone on this forum selling new old stock switches or find used ones on eBay.

I'll ask a few dumb questions of simple things to check. Does it have consistent spark and if you put a timing light on it does the timing look reasonable? Did you touch the O2 sensor? If so unplug it and see how it runs. When installing the starter motor again, did you mess up something with the wiring? Forget to hook up any wires near by?

I did under bed rail lighting on mine, hooked to the factory fog light circuit that I wasn't using. If you want more info I can point you towards my build thread. Ended up mounting them with adhesive backed magnets, turned out super clean and works phenomenally.

You should fill the two extra console switch locations with heated seats switches. That is my plan on my Truck once I finally manage to source some better seat upholstery.

Taking out fence posts. Still had 1" to the bump stops.

Do you have any slop in the pin where it connects to the body? Those can bounce making some noise. Also when I replaced mine with a brand new check, it creaked for a few days until it kind of wore in a bit.

BMW likes to use them in their engines. Head bolts, rod cap bolts, cam cap bolts ... Oddly they only use them internal to the engine, externally everything is hex head. I read into the torx bit for work once, they can take more torque than a reasonably similarly sized hex Allen head.

I generally like external torx as they tend to allow a bit more misalignment of the socket in tight situations.

It went great, was a bit stiff for the first few days but now opens and holds the door very nicely. Again I agree with the comments that the studs are a bit close together on the Crown part, but I was able to get mine installed without opening up the holes in the door.

This is a main reason I have normal everyday insurance on my 62 Austin Healey Sprite, it is registered and plated as and Antique. According to PA it can't be used as a daily driver, though I've done it for 6 months straight. Because it's registered as an Antique, my insurance is very cheap as they don't expect me to put many miles on it, and the data agrees with it as I only put 1500-2000 miles a year on the Sprite. It sure seems based on this discussion, every state is different with their rules. PA for instance is back and forth in proving originality and showing the vehicle is generally unmodified. However if it's 25 years old, it can be registered as an antique and 15 years old it can be a classic. The only thing that's odd to me is that antique trucks still are required to pay the payload capability fee that PA charges. Even my friend with a 28 Ford Model A truck had to pay the extra money for payload during antique registration just because it's a truck. The cool thing in PA is once it is registered as an antique, it is registered for life with no yearly registration.

I was thinking this too. I can just hear my pump prime before starting, when driving with the rear window open, even at idle I don't hear the pump.

That is one fine looking engine in that box. Quite exciting.