pizzaman09

I wouldn't throw out that coil, I tend to remember reading that they are excellent quality. My 90 Comanche still has the original French coil with 266k miles on it.

From my minor research, you should be able to swap in any ECU from 91 to 96. I'd personally unplug the battery and wait a few minutes before swapping the ecus.

Can't hurt to try another ecu, given the HO ones are under the hood they are suspectable to a much less friendly environment.

A Laredo is nice for sure but I really doubt that anyone will consider paying $13k for a 280k mile Comanche unless it's perfect and stock.

I was the same. This is the same symptom that I had when my trans mount was bad in my 88 Comanche with a BA10/5.

Does anyone have a grey three spoke steering wheel? I took the terrible steering wheel cover off of mine today and found an even worse looking original piece of leather under neath it. I assume the horn covers are universal, mine has the fake socket head cap screws.

First I'd confirm it's ground by checking against the battery negative terminal. Does it look like it's supposed to reach the common ground near the dipstick?

I've had a Mishimoto leak on my one BMW, but it was not the radiator's fault, it clearly had taken damage from something hitting it.

I've got to imagine you should clean all your grounds , particularly the one by the dip stick tube.

I run Mishimoto radiators in my BMWs and love them. I would run one in my Comanche if I needed a radiator.

Welcome! Sweet looking MJ! What engine is in the truck?

I've changed mine out, did a nice job quieting down the cab, reduced wind noise and window rattle.

Another tip, if you are putting sound deadening material like dynamat on the roof, avoid the center because that extra thickness near the center will force the headliner to sit down and a bit farther forward than it should. I had covered my whole roof in it and it did make it more challenging to fit the headliner. Dynamat doesn't need to be placed everywhere anyway to reduce vibration in panels.

I've done the headliner with the A and B pillars just loose, it's doable, but it isn't fun. Two people and some patience it will turn out. It would be way easier to do with the A and B pillars removed.

My truck has dealer installed AC. Instead of swapping the radiator with one that had a port for the fan, the dealership spliced a Tee fitting into the lower radiator hose that the fan switch threaded directly into. It's an option if you want to use that radiator and your current fan switch.

I've had this jumping around issue since I installed cruise control. I'll have to try out shortening the inner cable some.

Gasoline itself really is not flammable as a liquid. The issue is when it becomes a vapor and it had the right air fuel ratio to want to burn. That said, it's better to be safe, though I've only ever seen people just use a big screwdriver.

Probably has a worn out seal that the sliding window sets in. Finding something to sit in there to take up the slop should help out.

Laredos are the only Comanche's I've ever seen with power windows, does your Laredo have power windows?

As a person who has a lot of this sort of welding, I've just now learned what it's called!

Mmmm, those squiggle sport truck graphics are my favorite. I've been really tempted to get a custom set of those Sportruck graphics made for my Eliminator.

Yeah. Though honestly, it's not a bad job and the piece of mind of replacing a 30 year old bit of rubber is worth just changing it.

It could sound like a lot of things or nothing. Could squeak or chirp like a bad belt, could sound like metal on metal if it's rubbing on something or shouldn't, or it could be quite but fully separated.

The more I study this, the more I really appreciate the external roll cage. The cage around the bed is impressive.

I'm interested and scared of your offer and remarks. I want to put a Banks revolver on my Comanche, which is Renix. The first Comanche I owned, an 88 SporTruck, all Renix, was running a Banks header looked like it fit beautifully.