pizzaman09

I've used goof off to remove yellow line paint off of a car, it didn't touch the 20 year old clear coat. Obviously try in a discreet area first.

Woohoo! Clutch troubles are super frustrating.

So, apparently this PCV idea was not a good one. It does indeed prevent oil from getting into the filter. However it prevents vacuum from the back port from being pulled by the intake and has caused my rear main seal to leak substantially more. I've decided to modify the PCV a bit to prevent it from blocking off the flow of air in to the engine. I did this by pounding a 1/4" square drive into the bottom of the PCV so it won't seat and seal off entirely. See photo: Now of course it is the end of the season with snow in the forecast tomorrow, so the truck was washed up and is parked for the winter. The PCV fix probably won't get tested until spring unless I have a major need for a truck this winter.

It's actually a large garage with a house attached. 2400 sqft of garage space and 2200 sqft of living space. That large flat roof is roughly south facing and will be covered in solar.

House build is coming along nicely. They got it dried in enough for the big winter storm that is about to hit.

This would be a nice upgrade. Another inch or two would make a world of difference in comfort.

I measured this the other week for a friend who bought a TV too large to fit in his 2 door bronco. This is going off memory, 43 inches wide between the wheel wells and just a hair over 6 feet, like 6ft 1 inch.

These are very cool, great looking trucks.

Is this something that would fit a sliding rear window setup or would the seal be different?

How are all of your grounds? Is the engine grounded well? It wasn't on a Jeep but I've had similar issues with grounds on other vehicles.

I don't really know, I made them as tight as I could mange as they are all hard to get to and fairly awkward to get wrench on. They are 3/8-16 thread.

This is a super cool build. I'm guessing that you plan to put a slide in camper into it?

For the open or closed loop issue, I'd carefully exercise the egr solenoid by hand, I tend to remember it's rather accessible with like a screwdriver. What does your REM say about air fuel ratio? Is it bunching between lean and rich frequently like it should or does it lag? Mine lagged badly and needed an O2 sensor.

Great project. I like this vintage of XJ. If I had a need for an SUV, I'd own one.

Bring a trailer, and be upfront in the ad with the final transaction situation.

I'll have to file this one away, my door panels desperately need these pieces.

For all people chasing poor running, I always recommend checking the intake manifold exhaust header nut tightness. They have a habit of backing out and simultaneously causing intake and exhaust leaks. Torque them down and see if any are loose.

Yup. Actually I don't see KO3s as an option yet. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=All-Terrain+T%2FA+KO2&partnum=375SR5KO2RWLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Indeed, one of the reasons I purchased the KO2s was due to their quietness. My friend has a set on his 15 Rubicon Unlimited and they were way quieter than the stock tire. The KO2s are a tremendous upgrade in noise and ride over the Chinese light truck tires I had before, the only downfall is the dry grip is way lower, it's easy to spin them and they sound like a cop chase scene in a 70s movie.

That is a mighty fine one!

A very random thing I ran across troubleshooting courtesy lights. I had one of the door switch wires caught under one of the mount bolts for the parking brake pedal. It squished the wire so hard it grounded to the chassis. Just food for though.

Both are reputable brands, probably hard to go wrong with either. My parents had white letter Cooper's on their ZJ, they looked great. I love the white letters on my Eliminator, though I have all terrain K02 tires.

Don't feel bad, I had a similar experience with a Mini and a misplaced coolant line abrading through. Ended up melting the engine down on the Ohio turnpike. A tow to the nearest dealer and 3 weeks of warranty repairs followed.

This time around I simply cut the doorman Renix 90 degree elbow off about 0.08" above the upper flange of where it goes into the valve cover. The hole in that remaining piece is the perfect snug fit for the GM style PCV. https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/pcv-valve/p/duralast-pcv-valve-pcv1214dl/830774_0_0?spps.s=1843&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:FLT:19489353541&&CATARGETID=120054150001289815&CADevice=m&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9IC6BhA3EiwAsbltOIUXIZGsQ4onUxbn7kMhR6ywKLHTWANKi4vz2KkVlGceaMG6DrMoYBoCHNIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds The barbed fitting is for a 3/8" ID hose. The Renix plastic tube is 1/2" OD. I took a piece of 3/8" ID hose and slid it over the barn, then a piece of 1/2" OD hose on that and connected it to the plastic line. I used silicone spray to lubricate everything to get the hoses on all fittings. Everything was pretty snug. My first Comanche was an interesting story, it had pumped the intake full of probably 1 quart of oil driving from Colorado Springs down to Kansas over a 4 hour drive. We swung into a small town auto store and I asked for a PCV, rubber grommet and air filter for an 88 Comanche. The guy handed me a GM style PCV, some grommet that fit perfectly and an air filter (totalling $6 in 2017). I knew nothing about the crankcase ventilation on a Renix 4.0L, but it already had something like the GM PCV, completely clogged and a very ill fitting grommet involving electrical tape.

My Comanche has the fan switch in the lower hose there. The suspicion was that it was added there when the dealer added AC was installed in mine. I realized that the newer radiator that was in mine had the port for the sensor, so I purchased a new fan switch and put it into the radiator port. The original one that is in the lower hose just remains in place but not hooked up electrically.