pizzaman09

Yep, it's probably the one odd thing about being a trailer, you have virtually no control over the timing. From the date you accept the ad to the date they list it can be pretty random.

Time of year matters some, though not a lot. It's worth avoiding the holidays but we are just past that. The stock market seems to effect sale prices too, if the market is pretty hot, people are more willing to bet on auctions. That said, the process of putting a vehicle on BaT takes longer than you would expect. You submit the application, it gets reviewed and if they want to list your vehicle, it gets assigned to a writer. A writer creates the ad based on your input such that the ad is consistent with the standard BaT ad. It's a very good process but it can take weeks or up to two months to go from submission to active listing. The writers are awesome to work with, have great suggestions and really do want to sell your vehicle. BaT doesn't make much money on the listing, just a $99 listing feel, they make their money on the sale with a 5% buyer's fee. It's really a seller's platform. A truck like yours will definitely be accepted, assuming you don't insist on some outlandish reserve. They offer reserve or no reserve auctions.

That really is something, it sounds like areas down there got what we call lake effect snow, but off of the ocean! Snow is just another day for us in Erie, PA, currently winning the yearly snow globe race for the most snow for cities over 100k people. The winter beaters manage fine. The MJ did make a rare snow appearance last Saturday though, I made sure wash all of the salt off and tuck it back in the barn for the rest of the winter.

Have done exactly that. Transmission was successfully acquired, I love the tie down points in these beds. Also my Comanche got called a "pavement princess," by one of the junk yard employees...

If you want to sell on BaT and want assistance, let me know. I've listed three vehicles on BaT including my first Comanche, which was the first Comanche they ever sold. It is the perfect platform for your truck.

It's been done on other platforms. Aftermarket flow through heads are a common upgrade for the old Austin A series engines used in vintage Minis and many other old British cars. You are right though, it involves engineering a new head from the ground up and would be very expensive, also probably not very popular as all out horsepower for racing isn't super common for Jeeps.

This is exciting. Hopping up the 4.0L is on my future endeavors list.

I feel like this is a just a random connection issue, some connector or solder joint somewhere in the vehicle is not always making contact. Aided or hurt by gravity or thermal expansion/contraction. It wiggle harness and just start systematically cleaning and tightening connections. Use Oxgard where applicable on connections per Cruisers tips.

The control valve has a pink plastic vacuum line running to it. Might be worth checking to see if the valve is opened or closed. It's also possible that your heater core is clogged. They can be flushed out with some success.

Nice clean, yet very functional bumper design.

This truck is coming together beautifully. If you make it too nice you might not want to drive it in the winter.

I woke my Comanche up from it's winter hibernation to drive it 2 hours to Pittsburgh in the snow to buy a junkyard transmission for my old BMW. Not very excited about the wet salt application it's getting today, I'll wash it when I get home today.

True, but generally the trend is there iny professional experience. If I really wanted to get technical with it, I'd go talk to the rubber formulators I work with and get them too look up the base polymer for the rubber in the giant fluid susceptibility guide books. In any case Vasoline is unlikely to damage the o-rings designed for fuel.

O-rings should not have flats in them, if they do they have taken a set due to compression and are not as effective as they once were. I would not be worried about using Vaseline on these o-rings, these o-rings are made of a material that is supposed to be resistant to fuel so the petroleum based Vaseline should not effect it.

I used a very light coating of a silicone O-ring lubricant to install mine, made install super easy. If you don't have silicone O-ring lubricant, dielectric grease is nearly identical and will work. Vaseline would also work.

I agree, the Rancho 5000s do rebound quickly and do rust quickly. I have a dream to buy the fully adjustable Fox shocks for mine some day. However that day hasn't come as the pricetag is high.

Lol, I was about to post that I was pretty disappointed in how firm the ride was with the Rancho 5000x shocks I put on the front of mine. I love the chepo KYB rear shocks, soft and perfectly damped. The Rancho shocks are not bad shocks, but I feel like the compression valving is too stiff for the street.

The battery cables can be very corroded in the inside. Due to moving them around while swapping out the battery could be breaking down the old cables. Please update us with how the new jeep cables upgrade works out.

I'm old school in this regard and am rocking the very high quality wired ear buds that came with the Creative MP3 player I purchased in 2008. I specifically sought out a Sony Experia cellphone which still offers a 3.5mm port. Awesome sound quality and never have to charge them. I totally get why people want wireless earbuds, but haven't found a use for them myself.

Woohoo! Great article.

My parent's 97 ZJ 4.0L used to have a similar symptom but would not actually stall. The issue was always shortly after starting while the engine warmed up. Usually about the time you had gotten to the edge of a parking lot and ready to pull into a road, it would fall flat on its face and run at about 200rpm. After years of chasing the issue our mechanic found the exhaust header was cracked and we figured as the header heated up the crack would close. Replacing the original O2 sensor ended up vastly improving the issues but didn't eliminate it. It's worth checking to see if the manifold bolts are tight or possibly there is a crack in your exhaust header before the O2 sensor.

Did you actually replace the battery? A battery that was taken down to zero power can easily short out causing all sorts of annoyance on the electrical system.

For sale on Bring A Trailer. I'm interested in knowing what the factory equipment was on this one. Vin: 1J7FJ66LXLL133893 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-jeep-comanche-8/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_2648441

One thing worth noting is tire size, I run 235 75 R15 on my truck instead of the factory 225 75 R15, which results in about 2% less miles reported on the odometer vs distance traveled. This artificially reducing calculated fuel economy. Tire type also plays a role, I did see a reduction in economy when switching to all terrain tires from light truck tires. 14 ish is about right in town with my 90 manual I6 4x4. Lifetime average over 83 tanks of fuel for me is 16.7 mpg. Best tank ever was 24.2 mpg hypermiled on the highway. When I tow a larger trailer around a lot, I tend to get about 12mpg.

I've put LEDs into a couple different vehicles. I did H4 7" round housings in my Austin Healey with some at the time Amazon LEDs, they are a phenomenal upgrade over the factory incandescent headlights. That car didn't have a powerful enough generator to even run Halogens so the LEDs were great. When I upgraded to LEDs in my old BMW I did DDM saber LEDs for the high beam, they are a phenomenal light and worth the high price. Someday I'll do an LED upgrade on the Comanche, will probably do Holley Retro Bright lights as they look fantastic, only slightly modern. A friend out them on his 86 F150 and they look the part.