pizzaman09

Good luck! It can be frustrating to find quality parts for old British cars at times, the original components were frequently quite good. I suspect the graphite release bearing in mine is original and I hope to never have to address it.

My 62 Austin Healey Sprite is very similar to the MGB you described. It too has a graphite throw out bearing, apparently there and upgrade to a roller trust bearing style from some old Porsche. It is best practice to never hold your foot on the clutch for significant periods of time to prevent the graphite from overheating. The Sprite also is a flat floor with the transmission above it, so the engine and transmission come out together out the front. The worst design I've ever come across is literally everything on a 1986 Ford F150. I helped a friend swap away from a terrible Ford 4 speed auto to the Mazda 5 speed manual from a 94 F150. The transmission cross member was above the C channel frame instead of below, making it extremely challenging to remove. The catalytic converter was in the way of removing the cross member. The bolts holding it in were 18mm (didn't own the socket) and torque to yield so extremely challenging to remove. The intake manifold on the Ford 5.0 V8 is also a nightmare to remove, and install.

I did, it was fiddly, but after trying about 12 different combinations of how to install it, I got it perfected and it works wonderfully! The link below takes you to the post in my build thread in it. https://comancheclub.com/topic/68921-1990-comanche-eliminator/?do=findComment&comment=756683

Can we get another view of the black rubber piece?

Can you clean up the old sensor and see what voltage it produces? There is also a trick to open up the holes in the mount bracket so that it mounts a bit closer to the trigger wheel which helps produce a stronger signal.

As you are running lean, it's worth checking to see if your manifold bolts are tight at the head. Checking for any vacuum leaks before trying to chase emissions stuff is a good place to start.

This is coming along nicely. I can picture it being a fun run about with a useful long bed!

Well, on my parents 97 Grand Cherokee with the 4.0L, it used to stumble something awful about 1 minute after starting it, about the time you got to the end of the driveway. That one the issue was the combo of a bad O2 sensor and a cracked exhaust header.

That's awesome! I was skeptical of compression. Engines that sit for a while can have issues like that. A trick to getting an engine running with stuck rings is to throw a little oil or PB blaster or WD40 down the cylinder to help the rings seal enough to build some compression.

I haven't measured it but 30 ohms makes sense for that connection. Also 30 ohms is plenty low enough to pass the 30k+ volts that an ignition system runs at.

When I bought my truck I put a Bosch O2 sensor in, and it did funny stuff like that. I had blindly chosen Bosch as it was what I was familiar with as the brand of choice on the 90s BMWs I drive. Apparently it wasn't the right choice, I put in an NTK and all was well, the sensor is super responsive according to my REM and it runs smoothly all of the time. With the Bosch sensor it out go lean for long periods of time and have rough lean idle.

Congratulations on getting the stubborn bold out. With torx, I have found that sometimes you can pound a 1 size larger torx bit into the hole and use it to drive out the bolt.

This is an awesome project. Glad to see your kids getting in to it and saving another Comanche!

Does it sound like it is making good compression or does it sound like it's cranking too fast? My only other thought is for some reason is the ignition timing off? Do you own a timing light? Are the plug wires in the right order from the distributor?

This, it sounds exactly like the symptom of a sticking caliper to me. Two things you can check are, is the break pedal firmer than normal and is one of the two front brakes much hotter than the other after driving it for a few minutes?

My thoughts exactly on style, it's a Renegade, MJ mashup, which is pretty awesome.

I strongly considered a Maverick when deciding if I should buy my Comanche. In the end, the longer bed and shorter length of the truck due to single cab sold me on the Comanche. If Ford had offered the Maverick with a stick, I probably would have bought one instead. This little electric truck looks great and does have some MJ vibes. I'd say the bed is about 6 inches short behind the wheels, but I'd rock that truck!

This really annoyed me about Wisconsin. I purchased my 99 BMW M3 out of Wisconsin, and they had branded the title as a not recorded mileage due to age. When I brought it to PA which doesn't care how old a daily driver is, it got an unknown mileage title due to the Wisconsin title. The car has a digital odometer, the mileage is undoubtedly correct. It's not really a big deal, just pet peeve when I know the mileage is known and correct. BTW, your SporTruck is awesome, love the color and am jealous of the off roading you have access to.

Your Eliminator looks absolutely amazing. I love the stance, the graphics , the wheels, all of it is perfect. If I didn't use my black Eliminator as the 4x4 that it is, I would lower it and make it look just like yours.

Mercedes turbo diesel and an AX15, I like it.

I'd buy a larger one from a squared off rear wheel liner truck. Then make one vertical cut to slide the two halves together, at the length of the Comanche rear wheel well. Over lap of the joint should have the one in the back of the truck under the half in the front of the truck due to water flow as it flings off of the tire. I'd use a good waterproof adhesive to bond the halves together. All other edges trim to fit. I like the idea of this project, I had considered making some myself but I hadn't considered modifying one until now.

I have been struggling with my 09 Honda Civic Si not starting. It would crank a small portion of a revolution and get stuck. After much fiddling I found that if I unplug all of the fuel injectors and crank on it, eventually it would crank over. Plugging them in one at a time while cranking would allow it to start. Turns out it has a leaky injector which has resulted in it dripping fuel into the engine and it hydrolocks on fuel. Some new injectors should fix it.

Slick Comanche! I'd bet that's fun to zip around in with the 3.55 gears and an AX15.

Is it an AX-15 or AW4? Awesome Eliminator, the Chrysler graphics are better than the AMC ones for the Eliminator.

Woohoo!