pizzaman09

Are you referencing the float in the tank or the gauge in the dash?

This sounds very similar to an issue my parent's ZJ had back in the day. Turned out to be a bad O2 sensor combined this a cracked exhaust header (4.0L). A new O2 sensor fixed it.

The paint job on this one is excellent.

I'm surprised the REM isn't centered in the hole, mine is dead center. Was your original clock in the center or did you just have a blank panel? I almost wonder if you managed to get it installed to the left of the mounting screw.

The controlled airflow explains why my engine had lots of blowby, it's got 270k miles on it. Also this explains why when I added the PCV which really just restrics flow from the air filter, that my rear main seal leak got much worse.

I'm not knowledgeable on the bench seats, but the buckets just used Velcro on the bottom.

It has a 1 way valve in it. The original is just a pipe. I'm not sure that it improves the way the crank case is ventilated, but it has stopped the air filters from getting covered in oil on both Comanches I have owned.

I added a GM style PCV to mine to help reduce the oil getting into the filter. Do read the following posts after my install as I found I needed to reduce the PCVs effectiness some as it caused my rear main seal which needed to be replaced, to leak ever worse.

Shouldn't need any sewing skills, the seat covers come on and off in simple ways.

Are you aiming for stock ride height?

I'm there with you, a 2 door Gladiator with a 6 ft bed, Pentastar V6 and a 6 speed manual, I'd have happily parted with a lot of my hard earned money for that combo.

The rear axle appears to be mounted farther forward in the wheel well than it should be. As stated, if it runs well and drives fine, it's a decent deal. I'd say it's a 4x4 conversion from 2x4 because there are no factory 4x4 badges and the front suspension has quite a few new looking parts. Nothing wrong with that, a 4x4 conversion is simple on these trucks as there are no chassis differences between a 4x4 and a 2x4.

This thread may help a bit.

Actually the 1/4" difference is factory if I remember reading correctly.

Compared to what I paid for mine with another 100k miles on it, yours sounds like a great deal. Mechanically these trucks are pretty solid as long as the cooling system is functioning, they are pressurized. Electrical challenges many of these trucks, but everything is well documented here and is fixable if there are issues. Some photos would be awesome to help us spot things that may be out of place.

My truck has it, even at 270k miles. I could see people loosing it.

New suspension parts replacing worn out ones is always satisfying, better ride or handling is always a plus.

Likewise I pull the handle when I set the pedal so as to not wear out the pawl. I was fortunate to find a replacement assembly for mine as it was completely destroyed when I purchased my truck. I don't need it wearing out. Also I've wacked my hand a few times pulling the lever and letting the pedal hit my hand, no fun.

I always put my foot on the brake pedal and lift it carefully so it doesn't go whak.

I've noticed this, the older ones are far nicer inside. I just took my MJ with buckets on a 4 hour trip this weekend, and was really impressed with how comfortable it was. Jason Camesia's XJ video was excellent, like all of his Revelations videos.

If your going to buy a cat, buy one from Magnaflow directly, super high quality and they gave me $75 for my core with prepaid shipping back. It was actually less expensive than most of the Rock Auto cats before the core refund.

You are welcome! While you have the upholstery off, add heated seat pads! If you are adding headrests, you might as well go all out on the fancy.

I had an Oldsmobile that did the same thing. Other than it being very loud in the rain, it never caused an issue. On my MJ, I installed Killmatt across the bottom side of the roof panel, it was definitely an improvement in noise and stopped the drum type noise.

I have a similar list. Rubber bushings for the Austin Healey rear suspension lasted 2000 miles, replaced with polyurethane which are doing great Replacement carb for my Yamaha ATV couldn't rev, turned out the outside dimensions were the same but the throat through the carb for airflow was significantly smaller than stock. Two replacement wheel bearings for my Oldsmobile that had a geometric interface issue between the wheel studs and the mounting bolts on the car, had to spend really solid money on an OEM replacement to fix that. Convertible top seal kit for a vintage Mercedes that literally not one seal fit well, it was a pain to install all of them and every single one needed some modifications. I'm still sanding the one seal down to allow the window to in the driver's door to close fully.

If you are looking for an adhesive, the Loctite brand plastic bonding adhesive is excellent, it is a super glue that has a separate primer, can be picked up at a home improvement store or possibly an auto store. Another method that may be messier is the old school melt it back together with a soldering iron.