pizzaman09

I have KYB on the back of my MJ, they are great. I put Rancho shocks in the front and I'm disappointed in how stiff they are. I have a dream of splurging on some shocks from FOX some day.

Are all of your header/manifold bolts in place and are they tight?

I'd check to see if your manifold bolts are tight, you might have a big vacuum leak. My truck did that when I purchased it and it turned out the manifold bolts were the culprit.

My experience with one of those was an M1008 Army K30 pickup. Don't get an M1008, the four stroke Detroit Diesel is a sad excuse of a propulsion unit.

There is some serious art happening here.

Love it, big lift and a little engine. I bet it has embarrassed many far more powerful rigs off road.

That's too bad, a very good looking Pioneer in a great color.

Hello and welcome to the forum! A YJ donor for the T case is usually a challenge as they are clocked a little bit differently relative to the transmission compared to an XJ or MJ.

I've had a similar situation locally. I've seen someone in a burgundy MJ multiple times, we've pointed at each other and he even gave chase to me once but we haven't actually caught up to each other. I also have been told by many people that there is another black one locally but I've yet to see it.

The best combo I found was the doorman tank with the original black cap. The cap with the brown vent just wouldn't hold pressure for me for the three different tanks I went through.

Well I still have a set of incandescent bulbs in it too, so it really does still act like the original incandescent setup.

Whenever I drive my MJ in the field, the rear leaf springs squeak and creak a lot. Are you sure your sound is not the tire rubbing on the control arm in a tight turn?

That is interesting. I changed one of my two brake lights on each side to LED. The cruise still works.

My first Comanche with a Peugeot trans and D35 was very smooth and nice to drive on the street. It had stock sized tires. My current MJ with an AX-15, and an LSD equipped D44 is not nearly as smooth or nice to drive on the street. Similar sized tires. It kinda doesn't enjoy tight corners or any corner after it gets hot. To be on topic I have not broken a D35.

It's definitely typical, both Renix MJs I have had take a few cranks. Interestingly, my 09 Honda also cranks a few revolutions before firing, quite like the Renix system.

I tend to remember finding that many fuel injector clips are extremely similar. The ones on my Comanche are a direct swap for the ones on my 99 BMW.

I have also observed a lot of heat when my upper shifter boot was removed. The lower boot is completely disentigrated but with the upper one in place it isn't noticable. I could picture adding an air scoop under the truck to pull some fresh cool air up there to flush out the hot air.

Awesome truck!

My friends and I did that in 2017, that's how I ended up owning my first Comanche. We flew to LA with cash to buy Craigslist cars and then drive them home to OH/PA. It was an epic trip and I'd love to do a trip like it again.

Thank you! At this point the only items left to address in the interior are the cracked dash and very worn out steering wheel leather.

I'll have to check this out. I've been busy lately and this isn't at the top of my priorities. Maybe that would explain why I have minimal brake boost too. Interesting

The output shaft of my transfer case has been leaking, even though I changed the seal. So I figured the bearing was bad. Changed them both out today and low and behold, now the truck doesn't shudder when pulling away from a stand still. A little write-up is below. I had drained the T-case fluid and removed the drive shaft and tail cone. As you can see there is some wear on the original 275k mile bearing. I used a screwdriver and a hammer to work the old seal out, this went well as I only out the seal in last year. A 30mm socket, the same used for removing the drain plug from the NP231 T-case, fit nicely to remove the bearing. I started it with a hammer then moved to pressing it out in a vice. I did find that my new bearing on the right was a tad shorter than the original. I used a piece of bronze that I had laying around to drive the new bearing in with a hammer. The new seal got pressed in via the vice and a flat plate to prevent damage to the seal and a block of wood under the other end of the cone to also prevent damage to the sealing surface. I used a touch of RTV between the T-case and cone and a bit of blue Loctite on the three bolts. Make sure when reinstalling to point the drain slot down in the cone, I am not certain but it looks like one could clock it upside down and that might cause fluid to build up against the seal and not drain back towards the T-case.

Drove 400 miles to Philadelphia, loaded up the MJ with a bed full and drove it 400 miles back home. I'd guess we were near 1000 lbs. Handled it well with only hitting the bump stops two or three times. Got 20 mpg on the way down and 18 mpg on the way up to home.

Do check that all manifold studs are actually present, particularly the lower one nearest the back. Mine had backed out completely and was missing, I didn't realize it at first.

I'll have to play with it, I did a lot of adjustments when I first installed the cruise control and it operates nicely otherwise. I did make one modification to the vacuum system on the truck to make it work better, I put a one way vacuum valve in the line connecting to the intake manifold. It must leak down somewhere.