pizzaman09

Mercury switches are usually very reliable. They are little more than a glass tube with a blob of mercury sliding around in it. There are a set of wires that poke through the one end of the tube that the mercury makes contact with. Just about every home thermostat built before the age of modern electronics has a mercury switch in it. Particularly the ubiquitous round Honeywell thermostats put in every house from the 60s through the 80s.

Honestly, I replaced the front door speakers of my Comanche with some generic Pioneer replacements and put a new JVC head unit in, it's the best audio system of any vehicle I own. The rear speakers are original, and it gets more than loud enough. It's a small cabin, you don't need a lot of horsepower behind the audio system to fill it with sound. Get some new speakers from a reputable brand and see how it sounds.

The only time I can think of noticing LEDs flicker was when I was in an old Italian hotel. The mirror in the bathroom had LED lights around it that flickered at the mains frequency, it was terrible. The LEDs I used for the headlights of my Austin Healey Sprite will flicker some, but it's voltage related as the old generator and voltage regulator aren't as consistent at putting out a clean voltage as a modern alternator.

Wow, what did you do to break those springs! I am not familiar with the F150 spring setup you mention but I have to expect they are higher capacity than a stock set of Comanche springs as an F150 is a larger higher capacity truck theoretically.

I'm an active BaT user, sold the first Comanche they ever listed in their auction platform. I'll definitely follow yours and try to answer questions where applicable. With a low mileage truck like yours it will be a hit. It's not the most desirable model but it having a 4.0L and 4x4 with how spectacularly clean it is, it will sell well.

We had a mighty good sunset last night. There is a black Comanche hiding in the first picture.

Always fun to see a Comanche or two.

You'll be wanting this or similar. I suspect you'll want one specific for fuel as the seal material is likely different. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-88894338?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-tools&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5JXFBhCrARIsAL1ckPt26ZhSFv0P4Td3rcMDDIRQLff2HUzwLvixWGubmfPMtRF00wWOUo0aAtpzEALw_wcB You will need a schrader valve tool, they can be purchased as most auto stores or places that sell bike parts.

The Schrader valve should not leak. I assume it would be easy to change the core out just like a bicycle tube Schrader valve.

If your willing to mig weld and file and drill, that bracket might be repairable.

Out of curiosity, how many pads have the sensors for the sentry system? Of cars that I've seen brake wear sensors on, BMW tends to put a sensor on one front pad and one rear pad. On the extreme case I've seen Mercedes put a sensor on all eight pads on an 86 560SL.

I'm of the strong belief of never do something for resale value as it is something for you, do what you want. That said, I like the look of the 96 and older front end and interior. However I've seen a few very well done facelifted MJs and they look fantastic, particularly if they have a shiny coat of paint on them. I'm not so much a fan of the facelifted interior, it just doesn't flow with the shape of the exterior, the later Cherokees got melted by the late 90s bubble car phase on the interior. Then again, full length windows are worth the price of entry for how much better they are for wind noise.

This is interesting. I have a Fey Westin bumper and just mount a ball to the bumper, however it results in a very high hitch point.

After reviewing a few other installs, I don't think the bracket is setup the way the factory would have, that said, it fits well and doesn't interfere with anything.

Looking forward to how this one turns out. I also have a 90 Eliminator, let me know if you have any questions.

Lots of stuff all over the place but all factory setup. I didn't quite install the cruise control actuator the way it was supposed to be.

If you are talking about the triangular rubber pieces that rivet to the bed and the tailgate, those are now available to purchase new. Key parts makes them. https://www.jegs.com/i/Key-Parts/576/0482-421/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19684926646&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhafEBhCcARIsAEGZEKKgUUoIb_2alxMDVHwceRt3JpFaSaBMd4f8xHr8iGlGpP95sohhZ80aAqiTEALw_wcB I put a set in my truck. I highly recommend either a heavy duty rivet setter for the steel 3/16" pop rivits they provide or save yourself the hassle and use 3/16" aluminum pop rivits. I broke three pop rivits tools on those darn steel ones.

I like to see vehicles just keep running after lots of use. I look forward to seeing the progress.

Those wheels compliment the style well, looks great!

Can you define long cranking? These Renix systems do crank long typically, but as long as you are not having starting issues, it is fine.

It would be challenging for me to get the photos as my truck has a ton of junk under the dash with cruise control, but my truck has dealer installed AC, (by a dealer) let me know if there is something you need.

Yep, it really has a lot to do with drive train. It looks like there isn't much water where you live but washing it and cleaning the dust out of the interior for your sale photos will go a longer way than you think. I've had great success with selling on BaT, I bet it would sell for $4-$5k there.

I like NAPA but their hours are worse than bankers hours, like 7AM to noon. I go to NAPA for things like O-rings. Typically I goto Advance as they have the best selection of old BMW parts, honestly they have more on the shelf than my local dealer. If I want name brand parts like Gates belts and hoses, I goto the Auto Value. I also like O'Riley for name brand stuff like Wix filters. I only goto AutoZone if their online inventory suggests they have something the other stores don't have. Mostly it's because AutoZone is the farthest drive downtown and I don't like going there.

Mine has worn in and no longer sticks when using the mist function of the wipers. It took some use though to wear it in, like 6 months of driving it. So far I couldn't be happier with my replacement cruise stalk, it works perfectly and actually actuates the cruise as it should.

I'v towed some heavy trailers with my manual MJ, 4.0L, AX-15 with stock 3.08 rear gears on 29 inch tires. It works, but it's no tower of power, aerodynamics of the towed item matter a lot at highway speeds. 4000lbs is easy, 5000lbs is doable, 6000 lbs is straight up sketchy in my experience.