Incommando

Specs as of 6/17/2014 1991 Jeep Comanche Pioneer 2wd SWB 4.0/AW4/D35 w/ 3.55 Dark Cordovan with maroon interior and sliding rear window No A/C and manual windows Full gauge cluster swap 2000 XJ dome/map light & lighted vanity mirror shades swapped in Cobra Ultra III compact CB mounted to cab roof with 4' Firestick on rear of bed Factory rear step bumper replaced with FEY version Lebaron hood vents Rusty's front Hidden Winch Trail Bumper Replaced tranny with an AW4/231 combo from donor 1998 XJ Interior transfer case shifter and linkage from the same donor Relocated all breather hoses to firewall Front high pinion Dana 30 with 297 u-joints from same donor/3.55 Rugged Ridge Diff cover Front driveshaft from same donor Rubicon Express RE1345 5.5” lift springs RE RE1600 HD adjustable double shear track bar RE Track Bar Bracket RE1665 RE Steering Stabilizer RXT2000 Rusty’s fixed LCA’s. RE adjustable UCA’s RE3790 Rock Krawler quick disconnects Front shocks Monroe 32305 27.25 15.62 Rough Country BPE #1088 Rear 29-spline 8.25 3.55 swapped in from donor with Solid diff cover Rear drive shaft sourced from junk yard and shortened to D44 specs Rear has 2nd Gen Aussie locker installed Rear lift is stock 2wd leaf springs swapped to SOA with Barnes 4wd simple swap kit: anti-wrap heavy duty perches, shock mounts, u- bolts, and plates. Rear shocks Monroe 32370 27.25 16.12 1995 Jeep XJ power booster/ prop. valve upgrade eliminating rear valve Rusty's braided stainless extended brake lines all three places New hard brake lines run New calipers, rotors, pads, drums, shoes, and wheel cylinders New outer axle seals 265/75/r16 ( 32x11) Maxis’ Buckshot Mudders Factory ’02 KJ 16x7 Sport 4x2 rims painted black with bumper & trim spray Removed original flares at all 4 corners due to rust and replaced with TJ rear flares after trimming the body

It is all but done. Only working on it 2-3 hours at a time has sucked.It went down the road today under its own power. Everything is working fine except I am having trouble figuring out the transfer case shift linkage. So for now it is manually in 2HI so I can drive it. Pics as soon as photobucket comes back up

If you re-used the body side track bar bracket check for play at the hole where its TRE attached. Those get wobbled out and cause this issue, as well.

In the interest of fairness I will add that I just ordered from RockAuto. I need an O2 sensor. After checking some brands it seems that the best one to use is the OEM supplier NTK. The part # for an OBD1 4.0 is 23023 It was $38 cheaper on Rock Auto than any local shop even with shipping charges. The 1-6 day wait is a pain but that is some serious savings.

Does it use the same crankshaft position sensor? Is it connected and undamaged? That would be my first guess

I wonder if there is anyone on here who might really like Commandos?

Something must have gone wrong on my install. I did no modifications for the brake light switch and it works perfectly. This thing stops so much better now.

Oops

For frame repair make sure that you use the chrome duct tape to get enough strength

Not that uncommon in the rust belt. CJ's, YJ's, even TJ's...

Interesting idea! Do these states have better investigators or worse politicians? Another thought - are there actually better and worse politicians or are they all equally sleazy? Good point. Some of them may have made the list due to an aggressive no tolerance stance...but not all of them I think. Some other states that may turn a blind eye to corruption ( I am thinking Massachusetts as a possible example) would not be on the list at all.

An extra isolator up front gives about .75" lift for just a few bucks.

It may or may not be accurate but it was interesting.

I thought it was neat as we are always poking our noses into other countries.....

http://fortune.com/2014/06/10/most-corrupt-states-in-america/?xid=timefb 1. Mississippi 2. Louisiana 3. Tennessee 4. Illinois 5. Pennsylvania 6. Alabama 7. Alaska 8. South Dakota 9. Kentucky 10. Florida I am not surprised by most. There are some interesting choices, though. I thought #4 would be higher.

This is the same as our KK Liberty. Then main difference is the FIAT controlled VM Motori I4 diesel. It was tried here for a few years and despite its fans it was not great. It required several mods to have any reasonable dependability and the KJ sites list them. So the rest of the jeep is probably much like the domestic version. Although true lemons exist this seems a bit much. Many of the "repairs" are duplicates: what do you want to bet that internal coolant leak and the broken he at exchanger (heater core) behind the dash are the same thing? And the rain sensor = wiper issues, yes? Starter issue = control module? A fuel line on an injected engine being loose enough to allegedly falloff but the vehicle ran? I think his story is internet BS. Notice he has owned it for 4 years and still has to raise nearly half of the purchase price? Just as "liking" a post doesn't feed orphans many stories like this fictional.But hey if enough people send him cash...

'02-'07 KJ is a bolt-on...at least to the '98 XJ I saw them bolted-on....You have to use the longer KJ rear wheel studs though. Not sure about '08-up KJ. Starting in '03 rear discs were standard.

The best thing that you can do is a dual-diaphragm booster upgrade.

KJ works, too

Snake oil

http://seafoamsales.com/using-in-crankcase-oil/ Be sure to use a quality filter like Purolator or Wix. Oil filters are pretty important to our 4.0's.

This is the route I am going. $15 and the 5th locking lugnut from my set secures it.

So true. Some of the latest engines that can adjust timing and other things more efficiently on the fly based on multiple sensor readings may show a slight increase with an increase in octane. In such engines you will see a decrease in performance from running a lower than specified octane.This certainly does not apply to a renix or OBDI MJ. If your manufacturer didn't recommend a higher octane you are pissing your money away unless your engine is modified in terms of compression or such. There is no better mileage or performance gains in using higher octane in a stock tune & compression engine that did not require such fuel in the first place. Octane is a numeric representation of knock/pre-detonation resistance. In tunable high power engines with a lot of compression you can access more of the available power by advancing the timing without suffering knocking/pre-detentaion. Running a lower octane in such engines means you have to retard the timing and are leaving some power on the table. Again none of this is applicable to an MJ.

Upper adjustable control arms RE3780 Amazon $165 http://www.amazon.co...keywords=re3780 Easy bolt-on installation with no mods required and a solid reputation. Another source with free shipping: http://mudflaps.com/search.html?q=re3780&go=Search

Westin/Fey installed: