Incommando

Westin/Fey diamond plate rear step bumper installed: .html][/url] www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/westin-fey-diamondstep-bumpers

New Westin/Fie step bumper installed. I also installed a modified receiver hitch with tow hooks that is visible under the bumper. The receiver portion was removed and 1" thick d-ring hangers were installed all of the way through the tube and welded on both ends. Should be a solid recovery point.

I didn't go. The organizers could not even pronounce "Willys" (Willis not Willees) correctly.

Without being too pissy I feel that anyone who willingly subjects themselves to something like an HOA should not be too surprised at the petty tyrants that fill such positions in such groups.

$2000 for a Comanche with no window or dash? I wondered if I overpaid for my complete one at $400. Where is my for sale sign.... :banana:

yea same here. Gladiators, 10s, 20s, 3000s, 4000s, etc....but never an FSJ comanche There was no FSJ Comanche. Ever. There were multiple versions of the FSJ Cherokee. #1 Wide track 2 dr which are the most common when you think of these. They included the Chief, Golden Eagle, and Laredo. #2 Narrow track 2dr. Most commonly used as a fleet vehicle. #3 was a brief run of stripper 4-door narrow tracks. http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=165637 I have owned 2 of the three. It is probably a Commando frame. They are a modified CJ6 frame but are slightly different from any CJ frame. Can you guess what may first jeep love was and if I have owned multiple versions of both based on my screen name if nothing else?

Jim... is it cheaper if you bring your own cat?

A note on the drive shaft: the 2wd MJ uses some massive diameter two-part shaft that has a rubber sleeve over a smaller inner diameter shaft apparently to stop vibration. When I went to get it shortened I was told that they would not even try to re-balance it as they never have any luck doing so with the ancient ( 23 years/225,000 miles rubber sleeve shafts like these. I had previously read of this potential issue somewhere on the forum. I picked up an el cheapo $10 junk yard drive shaft that had 1310 u-joints and had it shortened and balanced instead. Drive shaft, cut/balance, and two Spicer u-joints - $135.

IIRC you started with 4wd rear springs. They are around an inch taller than the 2wd springs I used so that seems about right.

http://solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=156&idcategory=7

what is bump steer as i think i might have it?? http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-68.htm "If you have ever driven a lifted Jeep one thing you notice is the steering. If special care is not taken in the design the vehicle will dodge and dart whenever a bump or hole in the road is hit. This is because the drag link is either being pushed or pulled by the vertical suspension movement due to not being parallel with the trac-bar. This is commonly referred to as Bump Steer......"

I think installing it upside down and backwards results in something involving the space-time continuum.

Although it was kind of hard to find even my '05 Liberty was a 6-speed stick. But it became a 2014 Patriot 4x4. It also has a 6-speed but it is a new for '14 6spd auto. It gets 8 mpg more than the KJ and was great in last years winter mess. It is far from hardcore although it is the best in its class off road...but it replaced my last manual.

I will eventually go bigger on the tires but I want to beef up the D30 first. It seems the most common tire for a 5"-5.5" lift on an XJ/MJ is a 33 so I am only giving up a half inch of ground clearance. The rear only gave me 5" of lift with the 2wd springs. I can't wait to get it out on the trail as playing around with a jack in the driveway seems to promise some good flex out of those springs, though. The 5.5" front springs just took a little of the rake away. Again the body trimming makes the lift look taller.

I just realized that for the first time in over 30 years of owning vehicles I do not have a single manually shifted vehicle in my little fleet. A sure sign of an impending apocalypse?

I am pretty sure that on top of any potential electronics differences you might need to swap t-cases, too. If my ever fading memory is correct the output of the 88 is 21 spline and the later is 23 spline

Is it just me or does something look odd about the pass. side rear shock in the 2nd to last pic?

My worn out 225,000 mile 2wd '91 would run straight, true and smooth at 85+. I hope it does after the 4wd conversion, too.

A common cause for both the popping noise and then death wobble is that the hole in the body-side bracket where the tie rod end on the track bar mounts gets wobbled out. This was the cause of those symptoms on my '91 and I have seen it on XJ's as well. Starting with an alignment and tire balance may seem wasteful but it is good to start at square one

Got back to it last night for a couple of hours. Bent all new brake lines to attach to the 96 XJ dual booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve that got put on it. Pulled off the intake & exhaust manifolds to repair a broken exhaust stud. The ex. manifold is in surprisingly good shape but I am going to run a bead of weld across the common cracking areas while it is out. Also replacing the leaking valve cover gasket.

Your link is for a guy who did a solid front axle swap with a custom Dana 60 rear axle to match his custom Dana 60 front axle neither of which is in any way stock. When making such a heavily modified rig you can spec your axles pretty much how you want. This would be about like swapping full-sized Ford axles under an MJ and then saying that all MJ axles are 67.5" wide because they are 67.5" under that MJ. The KJ 8.25 is 60". It has also been swapped into numerous XJ's as an alternative disc-brake equipped upgrade for the D35. The numbers you find on the 'net may change very slightly due mainly to people not using the same thing as the "wheel mounting surface" but not by 5". The JK is 65" and is noticeably wider than a KJ's axle. The track width of the front of a Liberty is about 62" at ride height. As it is IFS that measurement actually can change as the suspension cycles where it will not for a solid axle.

The KK was still 5x4.5 IIRC

Exactly.

Good to know. It just makes it more likely that the t-case is not being shifted from 4hi due to a linkage issue in my mind.

You can try taking a slighty larger sized allen particularly a socket version. If the pin is metric try using an SAE to get the larger size. Beat the Allen into the stripped hole with a hammer. Turn out the pin. Beat the socket off of the pin. Do it 3 more times