Incommando

Yep, that works. Just tried it. Which one did you do? Or both? The adjustment thingy.

I think that my front shocks are too stiff for the weight of the MJ. The angle o the pic is deceptive, though. My front tire on the ramp is level with the LJ's.

I got more flex than that with a floor jack under one wheel.

Yep, that works. Just tried it.

That is the thing..I didn't grind anything. Not too much not too little not at all. Weird, huh?

There is no need for long arms for 4.5" or even higher lifts. You can get plenty of flex out of short arms: You do not need control arm drop brackets either. The above truck has aftermarket fixed lower's with stock mounting locations. The uppers are also in their stock locations but are adjustable to make up for the 5.5" of lift changing the pinion angle. For reference the Wrangler has a fairly expensive Terraflex lift and the MJ equalled it on the RTI ramp without breaking a sweat. AAL = add a leaf. Bastard pack is mixing leafs from another set to get the height that you want while maintaining your main leaf so that it fits your truck correctly. No additional drivabilty issues with the 4.5". The concern you seem to have about driving 65 has more to do with a large increase in tire height adversely effecting your final drive ratio and not that the additional height effects speed, etc... to any appreciable degree. If you order a kit it will have what you need. Here is an example of a nice kit but that has AAL's : https://zoneoffroad.com/display?ma=6&yr=1990&mo=140&ca=78 This is the kit that I put on my previous MJ: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-626-20.html Although I used 32x11.5x15's you get the idea. The only drivability issue was that the springs rode rough. That is a common compliant with Rough Country lifts. Steering, etc.. was unaffected. People report more success with the full-length AAL's verus the short AAL's that some kits have. The short AAL's put more stress on the factory leafs in places they were not designed to have. Zone uses full length verses Rough Country's short AAL's. If you did want to do an AAL with worn springs I personally would go with a full length version. Here is a more complete 4.5" lift with a new spring pack instead of AAL's: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-suspension/jeep-suspension-lift-kits/mj-comanche-86-93-jeep-suspension-lift-kits/rustys-mj-comanche-4-5-spring-pack-kit.html CB nuts all have opinions. I use a 4' firestick. Others prefer a whip style. Mounting of the antenna is important. The back corner of the bed is a good option for 360* broadcast strength. Too close to the cab has the metal blocking some of the signal. This kit is an example of a nice off-road set-up. It could probably be duplicated for less money if you spent some time searching. The ad does have some useful info as well. http://www.rightchannelradios.com/cobra-75-jeep-off-road-kit.html I use a Cobra Ultra III Wally World special CB. The range is not the greatest on the open road but it works well for trial riding.

"Item location: Aalborg, Nordjylland, Denmark" I have never done international shipping before

ordered: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-bumpers/rustys-jeep-bumpers/jeep-xj-cherokee-bumpers/rustys-bumper-front-trail-bumper-xj.html I liked the $40 pre-runner bar but adding it adds $52 to the price of shipping! But if you order the $40 bar separately and have it shipped separately then it is only $17 to ship. Funny how dimensional changes can really jack up shipping charges more than weight changes. I will fab something or get something locally later of I decide to go this route.

#1 AAl's tend to break worn out leaf springs. You need a new leaf pack or do a bastard pack set using S10 or Dakotas leafs ( plenty of options on search.) I would go 4.5" as the MJ has a longer rear overhang than an XJ. The little extra height will aid your departure angle. I hated my Rough Country lift. Try Zone. #2 XJ skid plate does work. Otherwise..aftermarket. Might look into some gas tank protection, too. XJ tanks skids do not work #3. I like Firestick #4. Search as there are a lot of options. If you make bolt-through-frame-rail ones make sure you put a large reinforcement plate on inside of rail where the bolts go through #5 Not much out there unless you do it yourself. You can build tube off of an aftermarket bumper or a receiver hitch to wrap around the corner. Cutting the rear of the bed can help, too. #6 I like these: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-XTHM&Category_Code=PFX A front bumper that re-enforces the front frame especially around the steering box is a nice way to add recovery points.

Homemade drain plug??? :brows:

With the 4.0 drivetrain you would need to either get a 4wd tranny (easier) or convert your 2wd output to 4wd (harder). I am fairly certain that it is the same with the 4cyl's trannies.

a TJ shifter has some differences even if they both use the 231 T-case.

If changing axles and rigging a gooseneck or 5th wheel hitch are no big deal a drive shaft shortening should be no bigge. Go to a junkyard and pickup a donor shaft that uses the same single 297 joint at each end. Have it shortened to length per a chart located on here somewhere. Do it ahead of time and it won't delay you at all.

"No title"

Crap I need a pass corner so badly. Lol

My biggest CL auto parts beef is the used tire scammers. A tire like a TSL that starts out wit 20/32's of tread is not "80-90% tread" at 8/32's! People try to pawn of there junk tires on there constantly. Heck you would have to pay a tire shop to get rid of them. These yahoos also put crap like " low tread in the middle but the side lugs are great off-road." Whisky Tango Foxtrot?

The scrap price of the truck. Once you cut them off the rest of the truck is nearly worthless.

There is a large misconception about payload as it relates to Gross Vehicle Weight Rating ( GVWR). The MJ is a very light weight truck. You can add 2,000 pounds to the bed and still have the total vehicle weight respectably low. A 2wd MJ weighs approximatelly 2,900 pounds while a 2wd 1086 C10 weighed right at 4,000 #'s using a rear axle equal to a D44 and p-metric tires. So you can add an additional 1,100 #'s to an MJ and it will just be equaling the wieght of an unladen 1/2-ton fullsize truck! An MJ with 2,000 in the bed and a stock 1/2 ton axle like a D44, 8.8, or even 8.25 puts no more pressure on a tire than the average 1/2 ton (10,15,1500,150,100, whatever) truck with less then half of that cargo weight. The 1/2 trucks of that era also used D44 & similar axles. P-metric tires are no doubt still within their ratings at those forces. Consider that the average 1/2 ton truck is loosely designed around hauling 1/2 ton (1,000) and a 1-ton truck of that era was designed around hauling 1 ton (2000) then there is probably no need to upgrade the MJ any as it is already an over-achiever. Modern trucks actually far exceed the hauling and towing capacities of MJ era trucks but that also has to do with braking systems and other factors. Granted I am not very familiar with the early MJ's other than they are noted for being very under powered. But a 4.0L truck with a decent rear axle, metric ton springs, and properly working brakes and suspension can handle towing 5,000 #'s and hauling up to 2,200 pounds in stock form. Loaded it would be equal in weight to a C10 carrying 1,000#'s. If you need more capacity then that you are looking at the wrong truck to start with.

a TJ rear flare at each corner works well

Lebaron hood vents: The heat that comes out of these is clearly visible.

I have put about 200 miles on it and it is 95% complete. It rides, drives, and turns well even at highway speed. I finally got around to fine-tuning the fit of the TJ rear fender flares that I mounted at each corner:

If you wind up looking for flares to cover wider tires or just want that look you can use 4 rear TJ flares pretty nicely. My bed had rust above the fender mount line that I needed to cut off so my cuts are pretty high: Image Not Found

So I got it 95% complete and I have driven it a couple of hundred miles. The ride is better than stock and the steering response is nice. It tracks very true and you can remove your hands from the wheel at speed. There is no "dartiness." Highway speeds are drama free. I will fill in some goodies later but here is the first test of the installed lift. I took the truck to a local jeep meet & greet and used the standard RTI ramp. I was a little disappointed with the front flex until a buddy told me that they did not stop me when a rear tire lifted but when my front tire was even with that of the TJU (LJ) next to me for a photo op. If you look at the top of the pic the LR tire ( the most likely to lift) on the LJ is at an angle and had lifted and settled back. My RRear ( also the most likely to lift) is sitting flat. My LFront tire is not very stuffed, either. I am pretty sure it has some more flex in it. The rear seems plenty flexy. For reference the LJ has a Teraflex 4" lift kit + a 1" body lift and is on 33's (255/85/16 + 33.5). I think the 2wd leafs vs. aftermarket rear TJ suspension are holding their own. Even if there is nothing left in it flex-wise I am not disappointed. Short arms in the stock locations can't flex?

The MJ shifter does function like that. The only difference is that where the shifter enters the passenger compartment the MJ version bends 90* forward to be less intrusive. Eliminate the bend ( cut and weld?) and have the rod stick straight up and there ya go. Same pattern and all. Might hit a bench seat in 4lo though.

I would beat it with a giant hammer and return it to its brethren Image Not Found