BeatCJ

Thanks, No Worries. They are pretty rare. My stepdad has two '34 Ford pickups, one has a repro bumper and it's thin and tinny, not near as nice as the other truck. he's been looking.

'32 Ford front bumper?

Cable end stops. McMasters Carr. The tool is a lot more expensive than the stops. https://www.mcmaster.com/cable-stops/wire-rope-stops-not-for-lifting/

https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/d/colton-parting-out-jeep-comanche/7211530559.html

Much better looking than the Tesla truck. And that's it's only competition. I'm somewhat impressed with the 350 mile range. I think the trickle down will be slow, but inevitable. I think we are only a decade from an electric tow vehicle. So, how do you recharge that in the boondocks?

I think that my grandkids would think the ducks are cool. So, aimed at those under 10.

I'm pretty sure it wouldn't stay in, only the driveline retains it. Of course, I bet if you pull the drive line, you will find a bad ujoint if you have one.

NV3550 is getting harder to find parts to rebuild. It wasn't used as long. Originally, it was touted as better than the AX-15, but I don't think that has panned out. AX-15 is available, just use some patience. And, while the external cylinder AX-15 is what you want,the e,eternal slave Bell housing is a simple bolt on conversion, if you can only find the early model. It does add about another $150, if you have to go that way. I second the suggestion of car-part.com I was having trouble finding an 8.25 axle with stock 4.10 gears, seems 4 cylinder Liberty's are somewhat rare. I found one an hour and a half away.

Stock front is a Dana 30, not 35. Dana 30 is good enough for most things, but what are your plans? Why are you swapping in an 8.8? Do you already have it, or just because you read it is way better? I was looking at the same thing, and the more I looked, the better the Chrysler 8.25 looks. The center section on an 8.8 is huge. Unless you are going with bigger than 35" or tall tires, you lose ground clearance.

That is beautiful work. Makes me wish I still had my '61 Wagon. I put a 250 Chevy in it, original 3 speed, 4.27 axles. I was still working on it when the rear end seized up, sold it so I could buy a car to get to work.

I am amused.

Like said above, it depends. What size are those? I like the original look of Turbines, but I want to flip my tie rod to the top of the steering arms for geometry and clearance. But that won't fit with 15" wheels, I believe I may need 17" wheels to make that fit.

I have a friend that has a Dodge pickup his wife rolled that used quite a few Key parts when he rebuiltit.. He said you could tell they weren't OEM, but the difference in price more than made up for it.

Cable? If you are talking a multi wire conductor with a sheath like Romex it's not intended to be in conduit. I believe the extra layers of insulation can make it overheat. I could be wrong, and you should check with a real sparky, but that's what I remember. If you are surface mounting, it should be in conduit, but you should have individual conductors.

My understanding, exactly. I don't need or want a high rpm engine. I was happy with the 258 in my CJ. More Torque!

Some sort of vacuum issue? Hunting for the right fuel/air issue? The shaking stick is a symptom of an engine issue, in my mind.

230 hp is POSSIBLE, even relatively common, with a stock motor, but not easy. The torque curve for all of Newcomer's motors, like the stock 4.0 is relatively flat. The issue I have with getting 230 out of a stock block is you have to work it pretty hard. I want 230 hp easy, and dead nuts reliable. I think getting there easy takes displacement. I don't see a real world application for the Newcomer Motor. I think you are going to have a very hard time cooling it in most any real world application. Still, as a point of Can it be done, it's pretty cool. 3 hp per cubic inch is pretty impressive.

I drilled holes in my son's Cherokar. I want to do better than that. The truck as I got it was just too nice. I may be the wrong guy for this truck, it might be better to let someone that is looking for a preservation truck buy it and get something a little less nice. But, it's not perfect, so not doing that. But I'm not going to let it rot. Thanks for the tips. I have already gotten rid of the carpet and pad. I think I will eventually go with some sort of coated floor, and rubber mats over that. Probably something with a good load of crumb rubber to limit sound. But first, trace the leaks I can find. Again, thanks for the lists of things to look at. I haven't had a new windshield installed yet, any suggestions on how to make that as leak free as possible? I will take it to the local shop with the best reputation.

My truck leaks. First thing on my list is replacing the cracked windshield, and going with a late model rubber seal. Next project will be door seals. I have opening wing windows, and really don't want to get rid of them. Are those seals available? All of the door seals are shot, so that will be a priority. I saw a thread that showed a supplier, but can't find it any more. I found this thread, and will work my way through it: Any other suggestions on where.to look for leaks? My 4x4 conversion will be on hold until I can get those done. I cleared space, stored axles, transmissions and transfer cases to get the Comanche out of the rain. I'm busy out of town until next month, and have some other projects in the hopper. Still, I would like.to start collecting those parts. Thanks

I've had good luck with PB Blaster, too. But mixing yourself is a lot cheaper, and as much as you need it with a Jeep, I'll take every break I can get. 😉

FWIW, Machinist Digest did a comparison on penetrating fluids. The BEST, hands down was 50/50 ATF and acetone. I keep it in a squirt bottle all the time, and use it a couple of days before I start a project underneath. That and heat make Jeep life so much better.

A rare color, too. In my mind, no PNW Jeep can be collectable, it's got to have rust and green scunge. Just look at.the streaks on the white letters on the tires. It may be accurately priced, I am mostly amused at the CL oversell.

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/gresham-unmodified-1985-jeep-cherokee/7210130727.html Color me amused.

I was called up for federal Jury duty years ago, had to go to the courthouse. A product liability case. When I knew what mesothelioma was, I was excused in the first round. The more you know, the better off you are. After that, I didn't have to call in any more.

I watched a series of videos on their (Newcomer Racing) dyno results on stroker builds. I have a good 4.2 crank in my garage. Guess it's on my list now. Even 230 hp would be enough to make me happy. I'm not really interested in messing with the computer stuff.