BeatCJ

My bet is the worn out input bearing was the culprit. Sounds like that tranny was overdue for a little love.

It really depends on your truck. I would bet the Peugeot would live forever in a 2wd. But add a gear reduction from a transfer case, get in a bind with traction, and that's when you are more likely to get instant carnage. I'm with Pete. Fix your known wear parts, never put money into hard parts in a Peugeot, unless you really feel a need to stay all original. Oh yeah.... Put some info on your truck into a signature.

No worries, that's the nice thing about a thread like this, it's still here when you can get back to it. I'm a fan of having the clevis tabs be the frame mount, too. That way your forces are transmitted in a straight line. It also eliminates welding a 1" plate to a 1/4" sheet.

I have a couple of Dana 30s laying on the ground, I'll have to find the numbers and take photos. Completely different subject: I see you have 4:10 gears and 35s. Do you think 4.10s are low enough?

Thanks, good to know. I would suspect my 160,000 mile clutch is original. We will see if it can go back in.

Woot, one more piece of the puzzle collected. I just got back from picking up an AX-15 from a 1997 Cherokee. Kind of weird, but he had an internal slave bellhousing with it. He said it needed bearings in his CL ad. When I asked him why he thought that,he said it had started sliding out of 4th gear on deceleration. That means baulking rings ( the correct name for syncro rings) to me. But the input gear is a little wobbly too, so a complete kit it is. I've rebuilt a few toploaders, CJ T-177s and a Ford diesel T-19, a couple of Dana 300 transfer cases, after reading directions, this won't be too bad. Sounds like one weekend, and it should be in. Still need to get my rear axle sorted, first. I'll probably try to collect an external slave bell and clutch kit, too. Darnedest thing, I have the right clutct kit for internal, not sure if it's worth it to source th late bellhousing or not¿ And get a couple more steps done on the basement remodel... My before Fall goal is still reasonable...

That looks like a misalignment failure to me. In my mind, not a bushing problem, but the monkey that put it together. I destroyed a Ford Diesel ZF-5 output shaft and a BW-1356 transfer case input gear like that. I didn't realize I got a wire pinched between the two, until I took them back out. It doesn't take much with precision splines to cause destruction and carnage. They were too heavy for me to install as one.

I would bet it would be simple to make them fit, though. Without measuring, it looks like the two brackets are too far apart. Moving the rear one toward the front of the truck would be easy. Of course, the round tube is probably too short, too. The brackets look well built, maybe just replace the tube?

FWIW, all Dana axles have a Bill of Materials (BOM) number stamped into the tube. As I remember it to the right of the differential, as you face the cover. I don't have a link or diagram on this tablet, but I'll find it and post. It won't tell you year, but a group of years where they were all the same.

It really depends on what you want and your plans. I wouldn't let the transmission be the deciding factor, I would buy the best truck you can afford. If I bought an auto, I would stay with the AW-4. I would live with the BA-10 in a 2wd truck, but would swap to an AX-15 in a 4wd. The additional ability to handle torque will allow it survive longer. The AX-15 can handle V-8 torque, it's as strong as any medium duty transmission. Both the AW-4 auto and the AX-15 were/are manufactured by Aisin /Warner. They are still selling transmissions, I believe the AX-15 is still available new, and they provide Ram with truck automatic transmissions. The BA-10 was built by Peugeot. AMC was struggling to survive, so they used the cheapest transmission available. And we got what we paid for. Of course, all of this is opinion found on the Intardwebs, and only worth what you paid for it. Go ahead and flame me, I'm wearing my asbestos underwear...

From what I remember, Meh... The parts for the front will fit. What does it include? I would plan on eventually finding new shocks anyway. I am a fan of adjustable control arms, and a better than Stock track bar. But at 3", you can do those incrementally. The springs will work just fine for you, and truthfully, a spring is a piece of wire, not really rocket surgery. For $40, I would try it. Cherokee and Comanche rear suspension are different animals, Cherokee leaves were originally on the top of the axle, Comanche they were underneath. As far as I know, the springs don't interchange, but I won't say that's accurate, I'm new to Comanches.

Good deal. I've used several of Novak's kits. They use quality parts, and have fantastic instructions. I disagree that a bushing is better. They are more tolerant of less than perfect conditions, but needle bearings will last as long as a modern clutch. But a bushing will easily last 100,000 miles. And that's probably forever in our Comanches, in reality.

No, drill the I.D. of a bushing that fits the crank to match the O.D. of the pilot on the input shaft. Frankly, a machine shop can make an Oilite bushing pretty easily.

Not on a needle bearing, but a brass bushing. It used to be that we didn't use needle bearings. Oilite is a somewhat porous material, and you soak it in oil. They don't last as long as a bearing, but with older materials, clutches didn't last as long either.

It's not difficult to do. If you don't mind an Oilite bushing, you can be successful with just the correct size drill bit. Get a bushing that fits the crank, then just ream the inner bore to fit. I have also made it work chucking one with the right inner bore work with a file, an expansion arbor and a drill press. Not the right way, but when needs must... Added Edit: You could also Contact Novak, they make adapter Pilot Bearings and Bushings. It might make sense to call them and see if they could Next Day ship for you. https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/pilot-bushings/amc-ax15/ And, worst case, load your Comanche on a car trailer, and move it that way. Where in Central Oregon? It's not a horrible drive to Bend for me.... Heck,that might even be the best case, instead of rushing. Load your parts into plastic totes, then you have more time for other things.

Long term, yes. But in the normal range of travel, you are probably OK. But most people like to pick their shocks, and many kits don't allow, or charge a premium for decent shocks.

Shackles only change one end of the spring, so you only get about half of the difference in length in lift. So you got about 1 1/2". Edit: Oops, drop from the shackles. Needed to re-read.

Ok, I doubt I'll be away from access.

When would that be? Sometimes during the summer I end up going a few weeks at a time without accessing forums. I get away from civilization for work, and end up with long shifts.

Depending on how patient you are, I will be dragging my travel trailer to Peoria for Spring Training next season.

Not a roller, front axle is in the bed. Good deal on the brush guard, is that an original Comanche piece?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/619115682027828/ 1986, was a 2.8 4x4, no engine or transmission. 8 hour drive from me.

One time I was following a late 80's early 90's Dodge 1 ton, DRW flatbed at work on a long trip. On the way home, down a long steep (shift down to keep from running away, heating your brakes steep) downgrade, it started shimmying, and progressed to the point that the front tires were actually alternating off of the ground. It was impressive/scary, to say the least. The owner finally isolated the problem, a steering component that would work loose over time. As long as they kept it tight, it wasn't an issue. I want to say frame side track bar, just like our problems.

And the EGR delete doesn't seem to be a problem? I don't need to do anything right now, this is the first 4.0 I have ever driven WITHOUT an exhaust leak, just collecting information.

Thank you, good to know.