BeatCJ

Where would I order a spare? Just go to a local dealer?

Easiest, cheapest, safest is to do like Pete M is saying. If your 40 amp circuit is not used, wire from that. How far from your panel to a good place to plug in the compressor? Edit: Trying to guess from your post, but I think this plug might work: https://www.weldingandcutting.com/Crowfoot-Style-Plug-50-Amp-p/KH529.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8fr7BRDSARIsAK0Qqr7nYBzev9Ti1Mlm-BlsKscfHQpmaR1Hp1yF8veXVryz22pIcvzMWosaAl3FEALw_wcB It has interchangeable blades for the Neutral/ Ground

It's the truck I prefer to drive. I have a company truck for work, a GMC 3500 Dually to pull the trailer, haul gravel, or block, or full size loads, anything else is the Comanche. Right now it has 6 bags of garden soil in it.

https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/d/portland-1989-jeep-comanche-speed-91k/7207622005.html

I kind of figured you already knew, but still had to bring it up.

I think if you look closely at the waterless coolants, they don't make your engine temps lower. They do raise the boiling point. If I remember correctly pure water is the best coolant. It needs to be modified to reduce corrosion, and eliminate freezing and boiling. You might try running 60% water, or 67% water, and see if it makes a difference. I suspect it won't help much.

I want a slide in camper for my MJ. it could be pretty simple, but I don't want a pop up. I've been thinking about building one when I get my to do list whittled down to merely impossible...

My nearest Ace Hardware has them in their Hillman section, nuts, bolts, screws and all that jazz. Faster than online, and I get 20 percent off, so probably not any more expensive. Probably find them at the big box Home Improvement places, too.

OK, so the Mopar thermostat is recommended, what about water pump? I'm having a cascade failure thing. I blew up the upper radiator hose. The coolant that came out was brown, probably should have changed it when I got the truck. The radiator petcock was stuck, so I ripped it off of the end of the radiator, which I was planning on upgrading anyway (thanks @Gjeep). Now I have a bearing noise, pretty sure it's the water pump. So, before that gets any worse, I plan on swapping it out. Suggestions on brand?

Appears to be right. It should have some lengths to check. Crown will be serviceable, probably offshore origin. That price seems a little high to me, but I haven't shopped around. Maybe that's OK for a complete assembly. OOPS, my bad. Google says I'm wrong.

Well, thanks to @Pete M, I collected the last big piece I needed to swap to 4 wheel drive. I have collected a Dana 30 with 4.10 gears (needs bearings and seals), an NP 242 (that feels good, but will get bearings anyway), an AX-15 (that needs rebuilt), and finally, a 2003 Liberty 8.25 4.10 gears with disc brakes. I also purchased RE 4 1/2" lift coils. Probably the first step is getting the front axle gone through, and then I'll swap it and the rear axle in. While I do that, I'll put in adjustable lowers and an adjustable track bar, and upgrade the steering. Obviously, it will be a slow process, I tend to be really busy at work for the next three months, and my wife has some plans for when I can get away. If I get everything swapped by the end of September, I'll consider that good.

Well, in that case, I may not have an issue. I guess I need to fit things together and see what I have. Thanks.

@resurrection_mj Did you pick up a set of Ranger Springs? I am looking at going SOA with an 8.25 also, but I don't want 5.5" of lift. I looked at the specs for springs, and reached the conclusion that the Ranger springs would appear to work for what I want. But like was asked, I was wondering about experience. With a highly arched spring, typically, ride quality suffers when unloaded. If nobody has any experience, I don't mind getting a set of Junkyard Ranger springs and putting together the pack I want. It may take some trial and error to match the RE 4.5 front coils I ordered, but I'm old enough to be patient. Also, I thought I read that 2wd MJ Springs are flatter than 4wd springs. Is that accurate, or has my mind wandered away from the truth?

Now that you made me look, according to General Spring's site, about half. I hadn't caught that they were shorter. Hmmm, disregard that. Thanks.

From what I have read, my interpretation is that spring over but using XJ springs will reduce that by about 1 1/2"? Is that accurate? I have a pair of 4 cylinder XJ springs that came from a 2wd 4 cylinder Cherokee that came with the 8.25 I got to replace my son's hashed D35.

With that Omix-Ada part number they are easy to find, Quadratec is cheapest at $4.99, Summit Racing and Amazon have them, too. Thank, Ollie

Not without some changes. The springs on a Cherokee are a little bit farther apart. There is an excellent diagram, and a photo showing the problem it creates in this post: It is simple to replace the spring perches.

Nothing. It's just after hanging out here for a few month, it was the first thing that caught my eye. I haven't seen a reply either. My son is mildly interested.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/877728146061260/ Ran when parked couple years ago 4.0 strait six, 5 speed AX15 trans, np 232 transfer case, Dana 30 front, Dana 35 rear, have fiberglass color matched canopy for it with tinted glass. Have extra parts for it. New clutch still in box etc. Pioneer Edition Comanche not to many of these left around. 278,xxx miles AND a modified grille... I'm close enough to go kick the tires, if anyone cares. Looking at the condensation in the cab, I'm sure the floors are gone.

You're mixing this place up with Pirate4x4. And while I liked that atmosphere just fine, it's just as good here. But friendlier.

I'm going to be Debbie Downer here, but over some period of time, those will fold down at the bends. I wouldn't be surprised if they lasted less than 10,000 miles. With enough gusseting, they could be made to last longer. But why?

Remember outboarding the springs on a CJ? Same thing, I guess. That was usually because the cast in perch on a waggy 44 couldn't be moved. Mounting a pair of spring perches on an axle is easy peasy. The diagram above is great info. Especially with a unibody, or MJ thin frame, I wouldn't mess with trying to fab 4 mounts, maintain everything parallel and square. You are creating an opportunity for a mistake, when there is already an Occam's Razor solution.

Not perfect, but not bad. There is one up now that shows the floorboards, they will need replaced. There is also a spot under the passenger rear taillight.

Same issue with me. I ordered a US Motorworks from Summit Racing. It worked great, but I suspect it got plugged with the sediment. I highly recommend flushing the tank before you install your new pump. They did replace it under warranty.

Probably not worse than the Toyota version, though.