75sv1

Might not help. I put in a '95 GC steering wheel/column. I have not work out the electrics etc. More of a mock install. This was with the bucket seats. It seems to give a 1-2 inch more room. I felt less pinched than the stock one. I'm 5-11 + 210 lbs. Still, it all depends on arm length and other proportioning. I plan to install the GC dash. Yes, there is some cutting to do.

Thanks for the reply. I did talk to my neighbor. He works as a mechanic, usually at a Jeep Dealership. Was actually putting in a trans into his Dakota. Said dry unless needle bearings or such. So, I'll skip the lube for now. I might have the trans rebuilt sometime latter. Also, the FSM says to grease the splines on manual trans. Just so no one mistakes that.

I finally, installed a motor I replaced the crankshaft in. I didn't put any grease in the 'pilot bearing' hole in the crankshaft. Last time I put in some bearing grease. It was a bit hardened, when I took out the engine. I didn't see any mention of putting in grease in this location in the FSM. Do you run this area dry or not? I don't want to disassemble this if I don't have to. Still, I don't have the manifold or other stuff bolted on yet. Tom

The crankshaft should not move. Actually, it is only suppose to move about .002". Not a lot. I grabbed the harmonic balance and mine shifted at least 1/8". Not good. Hope you caught yours in time. As for the .002 to I think .006 specs, you need to put a dial indicator secured to the engine block and one the crankshaft end. Then pry the crankshaft forward and back. I did take off the pan and the thrust bearing was worn on the crank. I had to replace it. If the thrust bearing is not worn, you might be able to put in need bearings. So, I'd just pull forward and back on the harmonic balancer and see if you can detect any movement. If not, then I'd just put on a new harmonic balancer.

Fairly simple. get a harmonic balancer puller. You will need to remove the radiator. Then install a new one. The elastomer or rubber ring goes bad on these. I'd check crankshaft end play. I just had one go bad. It took out the thrust bearing surface on the crank. Yes, my belt was getting chewed up, a lot of squeeking etc. A new one is about $50.

As for Hi Flow, you might look at Mr Gasket. I think a similar design as the Robert Shaw, or look on E-Bay. I would not use a 180 degree. It really won't help if you are running a higher temp than that. You usually want to run about 205-210. The 180 is/was for the early fuel injection on the drag strips. The temporary low temp would trick the system to run a bit richer. For a run or two. A lot of bad stuff can happen with cooler engine temps. Yes, even in OK. I lived in Tulsa for a few years. Think larger or two row radiator if you need lower temps. Also, trans cooler if Auto and an oil cooler.

I think the original is pressed in. Not sure if they sell them that way or not. I just put in a 'new' pump, I had for 10 years or more. It was not fun to 'press' in the new tube. I had to file down the OD. Also used anaerobic sealant. Not sure if that helps you any.

The Wrangler lines are good for 3 to 4" lift, I think. Not sure on the rear, but I think Dodge Dakota is good for 4 inch lift or so on an XJ.

Caution: I had a harmonic balancer slipping. Sounded like a belt. Did PS pump, alt, idler pulley, AC bracket replaced. Missed the Harmonic balancer. I was going to replace the alternator again. I installed a HI-Amp one and ground on the bracket. Anyways, replacing the alternator, timing chain and the harmonic balancer, the old one was an 1/8-1/4 forward. The thrust bearings were shot and damaged the crank. This is on a '98 XJ.

I was not implying that the 99.5+ intake was worth a bunch of HP. Just that some strokers claim 300 hp. At that, I think they sonic map the block for core shift. Some have reported losses with the 99.5 intake. I would agree that what you do on intake will not see a huge gain, till you do upgrade the exhaust system. I think Dino claimed 220 hp from a stock engine.

I would add the 99.5+ intake manifold. I think some advertise 300 hp with the stroker. 260-270 is commonly advertised with strokers.

Are you going to mix parts or complete engine? Complete engine I'd say 96-99. For the block, Mexican block RENIX era or the latter blocks. '91-95 head. I'd add the crank support cradle from the latter engines if using a RENIX block. Might look into a budget stroker or even the long rod one.

I think 87-01 MJ and XJ the water pumps will fit on the blocks. What you have to watch out for, is that the height on the water pumps can be different. I think there are two heights, possibly for each design era (RENIX, HO, and Late HO). On the latter blocks WJ and '01 TJ and up, the bolt pattern is different.

I'd probably use a latter model year. Also, probably use the latter years oil pan gasket.

Its probably water and oil mixture. Could be some coolant leaking into the oil.

I thought Ford had problems with their blocks or heads "made in Mexico'. As for the 0331 head, I read somewhere part of the problem was that the slag did not get removed in some areas. Some they did not get annealed properly. I don't think I would term what Chrysler did as cheapening the block. Maybe on the HO 1st Gen. Trying to keep up with CAFE and emissions is a challenge. About the mid 90's Ford did the Duratec casting on the Duratec V-6 and the Z-Tech V-4. I want to say Cosworth did the prototyping on this process. Thinner, but stronger casting. Trying not to go to aluminum. Cast Iron was getting expensive during this time. Even machinery manufactures were trying to reduce cast iron in their machines. Cast iron dampens vibration. Usually a cast iron frame with a polymer or even concrete shell.

The proverbial VAM engines? Weren't those the older 258 c.i.d. engines? I read somewhere that it is the 4.0L. I could be wrong. Suppose to be there are the ones with a single flange rib (US??) and the double bottom flange rib (Mexico.

Also, it might depend on the RENIX era block. To my knowledge there were some cast in the US and some in Mexico. The ones from Mexico are suppose to be better.

I use the NAPA 41515 Platinum filter. I do understand the argument that cheaper oils are good enough. I would argue that with out an oil analysis you don't know what is best for your engine.

My 12K was in a Ford Contour. Ran the engine on synthetics from 20K to 214K. Never used a drop. I usually ran to 8K. I used Castrol Syntech till about 150K. Shaffer once (good oil). Then Pennzoil Platinum. As for the article, Prolong ??. I'll have to read it more. Still, T6 is rated better than other premium oils. I won't say its the best out there, but good enough. He also rates a diesel oil very high. I think Castrol. Engine to engine, oils can perform differently. Also, have to watch viscosity. I ran a 20W-50 in my 4cyl Contour. Didn't like it. Also, thicker oil can rob you of fuel mileage.

I have used Rotella 15-40 in the MJ. I have used in my XJs too. I use NAPA Gold filters. In the past few years, I went with Rotella 10W-30 in the XJs. I used this oil in my MB 240D for winter use. It helped with that car for early morning starting. It is diesel rated. Again with a NAPA Gold filter. This past year I went with Rotella T6 in the XJ. I used the NAPA Platinum Filter. I went with a larger size. Just about any of todays oils should do good, synthetic, semi synthetic or even conventional. I would guess you are in a warmer climate. SO a 15W-40 would not hurt you. Still, I do prefer a synthetic oil. I will run conventional oils to 5K and synthetics to at least 8K. I have run them to 12K or a bit more. Depends on the condition of the engine. Also, don't cheap out on the filter. I prefer NAPA/WIX. CARQUEST is WIX also. There are other good filters. Baldwin is one.

Might also look at the Ford 8.8. Fairly common with 3.73 and 4.10s. Also disk brakes on most of them.

As Pete said, its close to plug and play. I just did this on my '98 XJ. I took off the front grill. Plugged into the passenger side headlight socket. Obviously, plug the two plugs that go to the headlights. There are two ground wires, one for each side of lights. I attached them with the bolts that hold the front structural plates on. Its a thin stamping lower and inboard of the headlights. I electrical taped up the former drivers side headlight socket. Tucked it somewhere in the headlight bucket. Did the same with the passenger side, but it also attaches to the new wirings. The Red or + wire needs to attach to the battery or a junction of it. I placed it in one side of the fuse for the Power Distribution box (Fuse Box). Then I bolted the relays, on the header wall just behind the passenger headlight in the engine compartment. Its where it would fit, and the wiring allowed. I ZIP Tied the wiring that runs from the passenger headlight side the the driver's side to the original wiring.

I have the AutoPals $40 and the 'Ebay' harness $20. Mine was $40 though. Give 3 to 4 time the light of stock bulbs. I have the AutoPal supplied H4 bulbs in it. So much better. Maybe I'll upgrade the bulbs latter. This is on my XJ. I might try Cibies and the Daniel Stern harness on the Man-chi.

I think they changed the gaskets, both oil pan and valve cover for the '96 redesign of the 4.0L. An advantage with the newer pan gasket is if you replace the timing chain, you don't have to splce in the gasket tabs. I haven't installed my Fel-Pro silicon valve cover gasket yet. Looks good though. Using a 93-95 GC valve cover on a '98 XJ. Had a lot of problems with plain cork gaskets on the MJ.