75sv1

Is the Baldwin a synthetic media? I am using the NAPA Platinum with Rotella T6. Its larger than the stock filter, but not as large as the one you have.

This would be subjective as there were issues with the trans in both of my '98 XJs. The first one, I put in the regular TransGo kit. I was having shift problems. Learned a lot on that one. Ended up being the output speed sensor and possibly one of the shift solenoids. I replaced all of them with the cheapies off of EBay. On this one, I was also having various electrical issues. Also, it was leaking fluid, front and rear seals. When running good, it was normal. I was having a bunch of other work done. I asked about installation, in and out of the trans, $200. Then the guy recommended a guy to rebuild it, $400. I did have a bunch of work done before the rebuilt trans was installed. Ford 8.8 4.10 ratio. WJ Big Brakes, cross over OTK steering and OTK panhard bar. It was not aligned. Roughly 15 mpg hiway. When the trans went in, the front was regeared to 4.10. I did have it aligned. Also, the cross over pipe was redone a bit. I got various MPG from IN to Central PA. Roughly 15.5 mpg to 18.7 mpg. I lost info on one of the runs. I still am getting a CEL code. It is either the O2 sensor or the rear speed sensor (out put) for the trans. The trans does shift hard once in a while. I did have a flared shift a few time, this past trip. Overall, I like it. I do not know what modulation the shift kit was done to. I think 'Truck' and not 'sports car'. So far I do like it. I do have the Kolak exhaust system 2.5 inch, expect for the down pipe (cross over). That is one of the next things, and the O2 sensor. I am also looking into the Isikawa-Johnson windage tray and scrappers. I was not going to do a stroker for this, but might. It was planned for the Comanche. I think I am going to complete the '03 WJ 4.0L motor swap on it. Then do a stroker latter. I know, to many changes to verify stuff.

I'd use the Renix block, a 91-95 head with Chevy valves. A 99+ intake, with a bored TB dia 62mm. Also, a crankshaft main cap cradle from the latter blocks. I'd keep the RENIX for now. I'd look into what injectors to use with the RENIX system. If problems latter, then switch over to the HO wiring. I'd also update the valve cover with an aluminum one from a 93-95 ZJ. Also, see the mod to the valve cover for Blow-by. Then there are other updates to make. There is a discussion on the Jeep Forum on the Minimoto radiator. $$, but one guy posted his results in AZ or such. Also, if you are going to lift it a bit. Springs etc. One guy did a Dakota/Ford GT350 big brake with the earlier AMC spindles, instead of the WJ big brake. As for towing, you might look into bigger brakes and the dual diaphragm brake booster. I'd probably put in a Ford 8.8 with 3.73's to get disk brakes. Possibly cross over steering. I like mine so far. I'd also look into the TransGo shift kits. I have a HD one in my present XJ. The trans was rebuilt. Seems better. Also, a tran cooler.

I would think it was the EGR system for a few more MPG.

Just want to add, that that price also included balancing of the parts. I'll probably look into what a head cost from him. My plans are ever changing.

No, He sells parts and kits. Also, break in oil. I have not checked into what his cylinder heads cost. I bought just about everything but the water pump and harmonic balancer for roughly $2,700 shipped. I did upgrade to the nitride cam. That does include gaskets. The latter ones, as more $$. Also, very generous with advice. I did look at E-Bay and his were a bit more for say rotating assembly. His post seemed to me knowledgeable (very), but not over board. Happy so far with the way I went. As to the budget vs 'long rod'. I think the budget is the same MPG as the stock. The long rod a few more MPG. If I were the OP, I'd look to see if he has two ribs on the lower block by the oil pan or one. I think two are Mexican blocks. A bit thicker castings supposedly than HOs. Add the latter crankshaft caps ladder or cradle. 3.73 for the 30 inch tires would probably do for a bit more MPG. Check a thread on Jeep Forums about MPG by Charlie. Long, Long thread.

You might look at Russ Pottenger at Bishop-Buell racing. He has a good rep on the Stroker board as far as I know. I did go that route. I still need to get the block done etc. I do not have any issues with HESCO, though. I plan to get their water pump. I will be using an '01 block, and probably a '95 head I did some years back. I am planning 4:10's and mine is a manual. It might not be the correct gearing for a manual. Might have to go with bigger tires, bummer. As for a block, the older RNIX might have better strength. Very debatable. I do not know what casting techniques they used in the latter years. Some used to say the RENIX Mexican block might be stronger. I think for what you are doing, its a wash. I am going with 0.030 over bore. That is the min. through Bishop-Buell. I wanted some amount of longevity. So, a thicker cylinder wall should help. I do have a '98 XJ with 4:10 and 31"s. lifted 4.5 +. Its probably 5.5 to 6 in the rear. Its fairly nice on the highway. It is a stock motor though. I did tow a vehicle, but only a few miles. I would look at a HD radiator and a trans cooler.

I like that thin wing bumper. A full plate on top, then sort of angled up on the sides of the wings. Maybe even stick out a few inches. Some head light buckets on both sides of the winch. Possible some fogs lower than the winch.

I was also suggesting an inverted winch. Logan's 4x4 makes a bumper that way. I do not know the particulars. I personally do not want a bumper that sticks out a bunch. Also, I do not want to cut my frame on the Comanche.

I have the Boostwerks hidden winch and the Logan 4X4 non-winch bumper. Not installed yet on my XJ. I am not sure if I want to cut the frame on the MJ. I am thinking about the Logan 4X4 inverted winch bumper. I think if you flip it upside down to get it tucked underneath. I am thinking of recessing driving lights into the bumper. Then possibly having fogs lower and back below the radiator or such. I'd wonder if you did some of the frame if DOM tube and put cover plates to fill the gaps. Sort of Scaggletti.

I have a similar setup. I do have the 1-ton Chevy Tie Rod Ends (TRE). You could call yours cross over steering. I bought my kit from Rough Stuff. Mine is Over The Knuckles, while yours is under. My XJ is lifted 4.5" +. The rear is more like 5.5. This setup made a difference from the stock setup. I do have the WJ Big brakes also. I do not have the steering stabilizer on, that you do. Mine drives fine with out it. It did shimmy once in a while, when I first had it done.

I have the E-Bay wiring harness and AutoPal H4 headlights. Either harness or AutoPals were an upgrade in themselves. Probably twice the light. I am using the supplied bulbs with the AutoPals. I did change one of the relays in the wiring harness to an AR274, I bought at NAPA. I plan to change the other. The AR274 has longer blades. I also have some Flosser H4 bulbs, I plan to put in. They are stock wattage. I do think Hella and Cibie headlights are better than the Autopals. Pricewise the Autopals are good. I want to try the higher wattage Flossers at some point. Still, my plan is to have some driving lights recessed into the front bumper, with some fogs below the bumper.

I am guessing this is not FI. What airfilter housing is on it now? I put a Performer intake on my '75 Bricklin. I used to have a Street Master. It raised the airfilter housing a bunch. I had to put an 8 inch or so on it. I finally went with a Moroso. It drops down. Take a look at them. Anotehr option is I think they make a top or fitting that is low profile to remote the filter.

I looked through Car-Parts.com. Seems there are three gens. 95-97. These have the 4.56 ratio. I didn't look if there was discs and drums. 98-99. Then 2000-02. I would consider the 00-02 the late models. Still, I'd search on that. I've had my Waggy front for probably 10 years. Its PS drop. One of the companies says a Ford 9 brace will fit it. So, then I could but on an XJ/MJ brackets to that.

I have one. To my understanding there is an early model and a late model. I think the late model has different gears than standard. There is a site or thread on this somewhere on the net.

I just ordered two Trans mounts. One is for my '98 XJ, the other for the Comanche. He will modify the mount, no extra charge. The cost is about what I paid for an OEM aftermarket through NAPA, maybe a bit less. There was one more expensive. So a good price.

Thanks for the link, and the info on a trans mount. I stalled out on my Comanche project. The NV3550 and cross member is part of the problems. His mount might work out for me.

For the NV3550 Royal Purple makes the Synchromesh. Also, I think Pennzoil made something for the NV3550. I do not know if they are compatible for the AX-15, but worth checking. Might see if NAPA or even Royal Purple will cross check as to what is compatible for the AX-15.

'Upgrade Kit"? Just wondering. I did do a TransGo shift kit, and new "EBay' solenoids on a '98. I was having other problems. It was the rear speed sensor. Pre-87 have only one speed sensor. I sold that XJ within that year. If I were to change solenoid valves, I'd look for the latter ones, '00-up. They are an Aqua blue, instead of Tan brown. Having a rebuilt trans put in with the HD TransGo kit. See how it goes.

I would say it is good info that the Melling Kit and possibly other kits are short one freeze plug. I thought I lost one. Yes, I had to scramble as you did. This was earlier in the year.

One of my local NAPAs had them in stock and on the shelf. I think it was a Sunday, too. I did order a kit from them. Maybe I had the same problem, and I didn't actually loose one. I'm in Hope IN

I thought the B&M coolers sort of by-passed the cooling fins when the fluid was cold. I did buy one for my Bricklin, but never installed. If you think your MJ or XJ gets HOT. Uh, NO! There is on XJ owner who uses a B&M before and after the radiator. I sort of want to do that at some point. I did not notice any temp difference in my XJ when I added a trans cooler. I'd have to check if it was before or after. I run about 210F on the gauge. I do not have a trans gauge.

I knew they were used in the Blowknox (sp) pavers. I used to work at a machine chop. The other side sold and serviced road grading equipment. I think the V-6 was similar, but not sure.

The flow data on the head came from Dino's Website years ago, as to the 7120, flowing the best. It was marginal as I recall. I think a bit of shift in the casting could cuase one to flow better than the other. No data to support that. As to the Mex block being stronger. That can be subjective or data I don't know. My info was from a stroker article years ago, posted on the web. It was more for an extreme stroker. The article said the Renix blocks had a thicker cylinder walls. There were/are casting improvements since then. Ford and Cosworth (I think) worked on the Duracast technique in the mid 90's. IE the Duratec and Zetech engines for the Ford Contours. The wall thickness was thinner, but less porosity. Also, in the early 2000's or maybe even the mid 90's there was spheroidal cast iron. I think you can do a web search and know more than I do about it. Again, stronger but thinner wall thicknesses. Also, less weight. As an aside sometimes you want more weight. I just gave away a few SAAB Sonnets. Long long story. Anyways, my brother still has a few engine blocks left. I was going to move them. They are V-4's. You should see the wall thickness on them. They weight more than a bit.

The cylinder spacing and bolts are the same. They should fit on all the blocks. The latter 96+ have locator dowel pins in the block. You would just have to align the head manually. HO is from 91-95. If for the later 96-up, I'd say dowel pin.