75sv1

The series in the 70's was 'The Bob Newhart Show'. The latter one in the 90's was 'Newhart'. MASH was/is timeless. A bit left leaning, but it did present moral dilemmas. They changed characters, and the show was just as good maybe even better. There was "After MASH'. It didn't last but a few episodes.

Probably the best ending of a TV series. Next might be the second Bob Newhart show.

What lift are you at? Stock? On my XJ, I'm 4.5 on 31's. I did the WJ Big brakes and crossover steering. Also, Rusty's OTK Track bar. I think someone posted a link to a kit that had everything in it for about $1800, a few weeks ago. I had probably $1500 in parts or more. I do have a Durango box I rebuilt sitting on the shelf. Don't know if they help or not. Also, WJ PS pump, installed. I did put on a rebuilt gear box. Drives nice. Hands off at say 60-70 mph, depending on the road condition.

I have 'rebuilt' two or three steering boxes. One didn't go well. The front cover popped off. Not fun with synthetic PS fluid all over the garage floor. You would need a inch-lb torque wrench. I forget the specs. I did do a box on one of my XJs a couple of years ago. I did check it against some info on the net as for a TJ gear box. I think tighten with allen wrench, then back off 1/4 turn. It matched my torque measurements. Still, ???? I had to replace that box as the front seal leaked, and I couldn't wait for a rebuild kit. As for the valve cover, I had sever blowby in the MJ. I tried a few cork gaskets. Usually, went bad in a few weeks to a month. I did 'upgrade' to a '95 XJ valve cover, and adapter a '97 CCV tube. That did work. On my present '98 XJ, I am using a 93-95 GC valve cover with the rubber Felpro gasket. I did shorted the towers as in Cruiser's Tips. I can't remember if I did that with the '95 XJ VC.

Also, look at the surface the calipers ride on. They get a dent or divot on them. This can prevent the caliper from floating. From my experience, one of the pads wears quicker than the other one. Still, that is limited experience.

Zinc content has been reduced for the newer Cats. Here's a link for some oil info: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rotella-worlds-first-ever-combined-hair-oil-foot-ointment-salad-dressing-188168/ I am running T6. I am planning to use a remote filter setup. Also, to add a cooler. Need to get to oil over 180F for at least 1/2 every week. Modern oils may not be as finicky.

As for the flex lines, they are a rubber part. I'd replace them like radiator hoses every 5 years. They can debond internally. Its sort of a one way valve. I have seen it happen. One neighbor had a locked up caliper. Another neighbor worked on it, and said that is what it was. Sort of the problems mentioned above is why I go elsewhere for part and not Autozone.

An old trick is to put in a quart of transmission oil and run the engine 50-250 miles. Sea foam might work or Marvel Mystery oil.

Gumball Rally!

I'd probably look at Wagner or Raybestos Thermo-Quiets for the pads. I have not used them, as far as I can remember. Some rate them as good as Hawk pads. I am currently using mid grade NAPA pads. I do have Black Magic pads, not installed. Centric for the rotors. Not sure on the calipers. Probably Raybestos, Wagner, Centric or what ever is the top of the line with NAPA or CARQUEST. I would change to rubber hose lines. I'd probably do the rears, with new wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes. I'd check the steel lines, especially the one running to the rear. Look for rust. Bleed the system till the fluid come out clear. I use a brake bleeder made by Mintcraft. I think $10 at NAPA. It is a small bottle, with a magnet 90 degrees to the cap. Some plastic hoses and fittings with the kit. I used a 90 degree rubber fitting from another brake bleeder kit, to fit to the bleeder screw nipples. It looks rinky dink. But it works good for me. You can only pump about 10 times, then you have to empty it. I do have Centric calipers and Rotors on an MB240D. I think some Germany company pads. Also, Centric Rotors on the XJ. Black Magic pads (Mr. Blaine) recommends them for use with their pads. I checked Rock Auto, both Centric and Raybestos make calipers.

I was looking into relocating the gas tank on the passenger side. I am going to run the exhaust straight back. I will be able to do that, as I am going with a Dana 300 (not flipped). Dana 44 PS drop. I was thinking of welding the hanger brackets to the other side of the frame. The thought of keeping the gas tank where it is has also crossed my mind. Of course, where do you put the muffler? So, I was thinking of a SuperTrap muffler. Just ramblings. Also, would need a heat shield between the exhaust pipe and the gas tank.

I'd add new radiator cap to the list. Check the brakes, too. Looks good. Camper shell looks good on it.

I did put in a steering column from a 95 GC. Or at least fitted it in. I have not wired it yet. I'd have to check if it has tilt. It fits into the rubber boot or gasket to the firewall. It bolts to the flange of the old steering column. It seems about an inch or two shorter. That is Ok with me, as it fits me better. I switched from a bench to buckets.

A few things I see as an advantage: the first is you could or might be able to back up a bit further. The other is that you don't have the hatch hanging over head. That can make loading and unloading difficult. This past weekend I had to have a 4.0L block loaded in. It was on an over head hoist. Sort of had to lower then tilt and push it in. Chevy Suburban had both styles on them.

It there an offset difference? I think there are two p/n for water pumps for each year. One is wider than the other, and takes a different pulley. I could be wrong. The 99-06 WJ 4.0L has a plastic impellor. It is a spiral vane as I remember. Also has an extra bolt hole.

I've been looking into a similar product by Metal Cloak. I think these are actually Dual Rate springs. Metal Cloak makes a 3-1/2 for XJs. I was trying to find a Thread from JeepForums. It was about 46 pages long. Went over linear, dual rate and progressive. Someone from Metal Cloak posted a bunch of info. Mine will be for the street mainly. They are suppose to be smooth. Still, it would be good to see someone who has used them. I did here the RE has some. Haven't checked that yet. Link: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/progressive-vs-dual-rate-coils-1525925/

I had a wheel come loose. I should have caught it sooner. It was an aluminum GC ones. I think the problem was that I used lug nuts that had been used on steel wheels. That grooved the lug nuts. They didn't seat well on the aluminum ones. I replaced then lug nuts. I might of had to replace that wheel.

I didn't have a problem with them on my MB240D. The ones on my XJ do need work though.

I meet him, while the exhaust on my XJ was being worked on. Also, makes them with 3/4" square tubing. I think for the same cost. I think $200 for a set of 4. Also, up to 2 ft height.

That is both a OTK steering and the WJ big brake. I didn't read all of it. I puller the two knuckles from the JY. Say $50, give or take. I already had new upper ball joints. I got two Lower. I think for upper and lowers say $200. You'd need hub bearing units. I used Timken, say $100 each. There were the spacer plates, say $50 (JKS or Iron Rock). I had them welded on, $50 ???. I also grabbed the calipers and bracket from the JK. Say $50. Then I used them as a core for rebuilt NAPA's (Akebonos, recommended upgrade from the Teves). I'd say $50 each. New rotors Centrics $50 each or so. New pads $30 NAPA. I do have Black Magic $125. The cross over steering was from Ruff Stuff, $250 I think. Heavy tubing. You would not want to even drop it on your foot. I went with the Rusty's OTK Track bar. I want to say $300 shipped. There are others in that price range. I went with Rusty's as it has poly bushings instead of heim joints. (???). I come up with $1380, probably a bit more. Edit: I did purchase a Chevy tapers reamer $100 or so.

I was always told never to get under a vehicle with jack stand or a jack. Where I worked as a machinist they other side serviced road equipment. They used large blocks of wood. There was a mechanic where I work now a few years ago. Died when his vehicle fell off the jacks. I think he was pinned for a day or so. There is guy around here that builds non adjustable jack stands , Taiterbuilt.

Is this in reference to my post?? If so, it is only the rotors. Also, I am not sure of the designation of the 07-08 Libby. I did the research and stack up about 3 years back. I am not sure if anybody used this info or not. I think so. I had this done just after Christmas. I have made some long distance runs and through WVa mountain areas. It is much smoother than stock. Also, the cross over steering is so much better. Drilling out the WJ rotors would be the best or next best option. I was trying for a bolt in option. Besides welding on the spacers, the JKS cross over steering might be bolt on. I am not sure if that would work for the OP though. I think as in the picture he would need the steering link to go above the knuckle. The pictures show what I think a WJ components. I was looking into that. It would involve welding and possibly threading. Its an odd thread. I did get some forming taps. Still, I was reading of WJ owners having problems with their steering links breaking.

I looked under my XJ after lunch. The lower ear is about center of the axle. The upper ear is roughly 3.5" higher. It might work. The cross over would have to have the TREs on the underside. The steering would have to be over on the ear and probably under pitman. The swaybar bracket would have to go up then come out on the passenger side. At least that is the way I see it.

I do have the WJ knuckles on an XJ. I could measure the distance from the bottom flange to the top one. JKS and Iron Rock sell the 1/4 inch spacer. It is needed (by most accounts) to position the drive shafts joints correctly. Also, you will need WJ lower ball joints. I used 07-08 KJ or Dodge Nitro Brake rotors. They are about 1/16 less diameter than the WJ rotors. They have 5 on 4.5 spacing. I did calculations and about a 1/16 off of spacing than nominal. As for the cross over steering, I used Ruff Stuff kit. Chevy TREs. You would need to ream out the knuckles for the Chevy Taper. JKS makes a drop in kit, though. I did use Rusty's OTK Track Bar kit. I needed to use spacers on my front as I have 8 inch wide Canyon Rims. Also, you would need to use the hub bearing assemble from a 00-01 XJ. This is also to space the rotor correctly, ie offset. There are a lot of post on the WJ knuckle upgrade. Some of it scares me. Others are a lot more work than needed.

The 96-01 4.0L out of an XJ should have the same crankshaft. So, the pilot hole should be the same. OK, not sure on the 01, as it had a NV3550. You could look at Advanced Adapters. The WJ's 99-04 Grands, are a real challenge. I'm still struggling with that project. I'd avoid it. I would guess 91-95 HOs would be a match too. Still, Id check about the pilot bearing.