75sv1
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Everything posted by 75sv1
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There is a place in TX, that sells short block. I remember $950 plus shipping. Maybe $200 core. Also, see about a place in NC or SC. I saw some good prices on them.
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During WW2, they would take a sheet metal part off a B-17 and make a mold off of it. I think the molds were formed out of Bismuth (sp). The molds do not last long, say 20,000-30,000 parts. I think I have used something similar or just called by another name 'Cero safe' . It is used to take cast of chambers of firearms. Also, as I remember there is a place in Ohio that deals in Ford Model T parts. They use this to make reproduction body panels for the Model T. Old school still works.
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Front header panel conversion
75sv1 replied to Thealaskancomanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I have the new fenders and am planning to use the old header. I just see it as relocating the four holes for attachment. I will be using '95 XJ wiring. I am thinking you just have to drill holes into the fiberglass of the header or in my case, make some brackets. The wiring??? You might see if you can access MAD/XJ site. It had some conversion stuff from the old XJs to the new XJs turn signals. Also, a headlight relay wiring harness on the headlights. Just thoughts. -
Front header panel conversion
75sv1 replied to Thealaskancomanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I am trying the reverse of this. The attachment bolts, screws or studs are in different locations. In my case, I could bondo the corners and make them rounds. -
As for straightening NiCop, I used the corner of the bottom of a wall. Sort of unrolled the coil into the 90 degree. It was fairly straight. Then when I cut the piece to length with extra, I straightened it with my hands. I did look at the rollers for straightening it.
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Yes, I used a pipe cutter. One of the small plastic ones. I think I also chamfered the ID.
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This was posted on an MB board.
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I have used NiCOP on my '00 Ford Contour SVT. Bends easy. I doubt it will rust. Porsche uses it. You can bend the stuff with your hands.
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4.5" coils and s.o.a lift with 33" tires.
75sv1 replied to JeepDreamer26's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I wonder if the OP could use XJ or adjustable shackles to level the rear? -
I'll change the subject a bit, to movies I wished I'd seen in the theater or even IMAX. RUSH, The A-TEAM, and Grand Prix. Even though Grand Prix is older, the scenes are well done. I'd include the MATRIX series on that too. The Lord of the Rings, I'm glad I did.
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There are write ups on the WJ front sway bar. I have been looking into this. Basically, the frame brackets need moved forward a bit.
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Star Wars. I saw it in DC before it gained its popularity. My friend had to convince me to go. I remember 'Sci-fi, ugh!' or something to that affect. You just couldn't explain that movie at that time to others, who hadn't seen it. I still watch it from time to time. Others Star Wars movies might be technically better. But the original has soul. The Matrix did eclipse the technical aspects. Also, excellent story etc. There were some movies at that time, that I think changed movies to come and culture. Jaws is one that has not been mentioned. Changed horror movies The Jerk, with Steve Martin. Martin was not under contract with SNL, not to make movies. He was contracted as a writer. Changed comedy. The Deer Hunter. I think it changed the perception of Nam vets. Sort of changed War movies. Saturday Night Fever, changed culture for a while. One other I'll add, Blade Runner. Except for the flashing neon lights on the hovering cop cars, I think it could be release today. Alien is up there. Also, like Rocky.
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I did a 4.0L WJ PS Pump upgrade. I had to block off a port in the reservoir. I hear KJ reservoirs fit. I did notice a bit better operations. That is with a rebuilt stock (Advanced Auto) gear box. I did rebuilt the PS Pump. Edit: Mine is on a '98 XJ. So, there might be mods to do on earlier engines.
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As for rust, under the driver seat and above the muffler. Also, check the rear brake line. They rust. Will not be fun if it fails when driving. '98s are a good year. The rocker look good from the pics. Usually the first to go.
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I'd be couscous on what a bank will loan you. It might put your budget out of whack. I remember I was approved for about $110K. I bought my house for $65K. I was making $16/hour, no or little OT. Also, watch that you are making a bunch of OT currently. How long will that last? How stable is the housing market, were you are at? That could be neighborhood to neighborhood. Still, get preapproved. It works in your favor. Also, see if there are house buying classes in your area. In my area, at least it used to be, customary to put down $500 as a promise note. If you backed out of the deal, it was the sellers $$.
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'5. The listing has been reduced by $13k, or @16%, in only 90 days on the market. I tried to look up the assessed value of the home, but was only able to find public records on the tax assessment on the land. It was noted as a "delinquent account" despite the property tax on the land only being $118. Those two pieces of info indicate a distress sale to me and why it is being sold "as is", i.e. they don't have any money. ' Interesting point, and has a bearing on PMI. PMI is based on the value of the house, not the loan (or at least that is what worked for me). So, if the house is valued at $80 or higher, then you might be out of PMI already. Something to look into. There are also taxes and some other stuff that might get rolled into the loan.
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OK, you win. I use two wallets. One for everyday. Approaches 'George' territory at time. The other is a money clip. I use it when I do go out. Some $$, one CC, Carry Permit (if I'm carring), Car Insurance maybe a few other things.
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As mentioned PMI. I think it is a percentage of the loan each month. I would think about $75 a month for that house. Look into the 15 vs 30 year loans. I would say it would be a $100 difference on that amount. To check into first time buyer loans. Possibly better rates and usually less down. Check out several banks. They have different loan criteria. I'd say at least have $5000 to possibly $10,000 left in the bank when done. Check out laws as for vehicles being outside. You will probably want to work on your Jeeps. Different location and different neighbors can be a pain.
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Two PCV valve kits - hose to air filter box
75sv1 replied to Cali Cruse's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I believe the valve cover is a 93-95 Grand Cherokee. The newer valve cover grommets hand CCV stuff should work. I have done two of them. Installed one in a '98 XJ. The rear is a CCV, the other is a just an elbow if I remember correctly. You can use a latter CCV tube on the rear 97+. You would need to use the 97+ plus fitting in the intake manifold. The tube is larger. It might help your Blowby or oil getting into the air filter. Also, Cruiser's tip on modifying the tubes or shields in the valve cover. Also, check out FelPro's valve cover gasket. I think its $35 or so. In my experience, blowby can be a leak at the valve cover gasket. Also, the Chrysler gray (??) RTV has its fans. -
'They're all there, inside an '86(?) Waggy, which IIRC is sitting on a Dana44, at Wesman Salvage in' I take it this is a FS, so the bolt pattern should be 6 on 5.5 (???). Also, Isuzu Rodeos have Dana 44 under them, but same deal 6 on 5.5. Also, don't the Rubicon Wranglers have Dana 44s?
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I thought I read somewhere, that if you pull the tail cone off the 2WD, there will be the gear for the 4WD on the shaft. Then you could cut the shaft off at that point. You might look and see if this is true.
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Components: Rusty's Adjustable UCA & LCA. Alloy USA upper ball joints. Mevotech THK Lower ball joints. Pro Comp 4.5 springs. Rusty's OTK Track Bar. Ruff Stuff 1 ton Chevy cross over steering. WJ knuckles, Timken Hub Bearings, . LP axel. 31" Master Craft tires. I do have wheel spacers to help the 15-8 Canyon rims to clear the WJ calipers. My sway bar is disconnected presently.
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I have 1 ton Chevy cross over steering, WJ Big Brakes, Rusty's OTK Trac bar. Still Death Wobble. Didn't have it before this stuff. I do not have the steering stabilizer on it. I'll Tire PSI. I am at 4.5 lift, with Rusty's (I think) Adjustable control arms. I did have it aligned and at that time the tires were balanced. I think that is when it started. I did replace the motor mounts with Brown Dogs. It had ripped apart the stock motor mounts. Still, my question is raising to 4.5 lift, and 31 inch tires, would the alignment specs be different than stock? Also, it seems my steering gear box has loosened up. I replaced it about a year ago, and had about a 1/16 play. Now about 1/8 or more each side. I did get a Borgeson steering shaft, not installed yet.
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In the top photo, the side with the hand goes to the driver's side. The stud side goes down, as to the trans cross member. It will fit into four of the 8 holes in that. The side of the cross member with round holes, goes to the driver's side. The elongated holes go to the passenger's side.
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I just put a Mean Lemons on my AW4. The short side went to the driver's side.
