89 MJ

Ugh... no way. Everyone good?

That’s what I was guessing. There shouldn’t be any reason to replace the springs anyways. The only reason I could see the shock causing DW would be if it were seized or completely and making the suspension do weird stuff. but it doesn’t sound like that’s the case. It’s an unlikely issue, but it’s still a possibility. Out of everything suggested, it’s probably the least likely. If it is an issue, they’d probably take care of it at an alignment shop.

Sounds like it wouldn't hurt to get the tires road force balanced. When you said your mechanic put in new suspension, does that mean shocks? Or is new suspension springs, shocks, and all rubber parts? There are almost countless causes for death wobble. The condition of all rubber puts in the front suspension should be inspected and replaced if needed. The track bar bolt on the front axle side is also prone to getting worn out to be an oval shape, causing death wobble. You should also get it aligned if it hasn't been aligned in a long time. Not having enough caster can cause issues too. @boxyjeep is somewhere in Cali, so he might have some shop recommendations. I would encourage you to learn how to do a lot of this stuff on your own. These are fairly simple rigs. Obviously there are some things that you can't do, like the tire balance and alignment, but working on other suspension stuff can be done fairly easily.

That I don’t know, might want to make a post in tech asking

I want to say that the AMC ones are not interchangeable with the later Bendix ones. So you’d need a matched pair of make and female ends.

My truck has the sensor in the lower rad hose as well. I’m fairly certain my truck has the original rad in it and came with factory AC too.

This 30lb bucket should do Seriously though, I’d probably get two of the smaller tubes from a parts store and hope that took care of it.

I saw somewhere on the internet that it was a very last minute wrap. @OffGridResearch could probably explain

Looks like it’s 18,600 that are registered, as of 2021. Plus I’m sure there are a lot of unregistered projects. In any case, not a ton.

It might be cheaper and easier to just swap axles. Any 4cyl, 5 speed XJ or MJ will have 4.10s (most likely). If you could find a D44 or 29 spline Chrysler 8.25, that would be a stronger axle too.

I’d run 4.10s. That will be slightly shorter gearing than stock. Cruiser always said that these AMC inline engines were designed to run 24 mph per every 1000 rpms in drive (1:1 ratio). You don’t need to be afraid of turning it some higher rpms.

Might as well add the torque wrench if you’re doing the rear main. You’ll need it for torquing the main caps anyways.

Looks like a pretty good one! I guess you’re just supposed to have 2 MJs.

It seems weird to me that the speedo is off, but the odo is close to correct. Like Eagle_SX4 said, the mile per hour shown will be off by a percentage. (Speed shown) = (actual speed) * (percentage inaccurate), if your speedo read 110% of your actual speed, and you were actually doing 50, your speed shown would be 55, 60 would show 66, etc.

The same gauge as the ballast resistor wires, or heavier.

For a temporary fix, you could just put a jumper between the wires for the ballast resistor. That would let you know if that’s the problem or not.

They are the caps that hold the crankshaft into the block

November 2024 - She's For The Streets Owned by @Car Enthusiast Build Thread- Year/Model 1988 Shortbox base model Drivetrain 4.0 with 186K miles, BA10, and a Dana 30 rear end Stock as a rock Cooling Nothing wild, just the stock radiator Electrical/Ignition Butchered up wiring harness from the previous owner. I have a big 5 wiring kit and NickInTime display to put in it Suspension/Steering Explorer springs in the front and XJ shackles in the rear dropping it 4/3" respectively. Slapped in some QA1 single adjustable shocks on it (TS709, and TS706). The fronts are dangerously close to bottoming out, so I might have to send them back for a shorter piston version Interior Seats and a console from a 2001 XJ replaced my old worn out bench seat Brakes- Stock Lighting- Upgraded sealed beams headlights with wiring harnesses added on Exterior- Only thing I have done was replaced the old flag style side mirrors on it for the bigger versions Wheel & Tires- Mickey Thompson ET Streets 255/60/15s with some tire lettering and I painted the M/T logo red, on a set of powder coated turbines Misc- No real plans for this one, just have fun as a street truck. I might 4link the rear and bag it later on down the road. I would love to put an OGR body kit on it along with a roll pan to really lean into the street truck look! I just really want to drive this one around. Best MJ story- Grew up and my Dad had an 86 2.8 longbed MJ. It was a dog, but I loved it. So that led me to finally getting one. I was looking and found this one in Louisiana (three states away) right when the pandemic hit back in 2020. I drove down there and picked it up and during the height of the lockdowns around here and driving it back on the freeways, it was a ghost town. Just me and my wife following in the van. Initially bought it for the step daughter to drive but she was blind and wanted to drive my Cherokee instead. Her loss! When she moved out and got to keep the MJ! CC is Awesome! Why? I am on a number of automotive forums and communities from old Fbodies, to Corvettes and CC is honestly the best out of them. The level of involvement and what the members will dedicate to keeping these old trucks moving beats anyone else. From people producing hard to find parts to Cruiser keeping the old ones still going. I really like this truck, it seems like a really great street truck. Congrats, Car Enthusiast!

I was going to suggest it was heat soak since it seems to do it more when warm. The fuel is boiling in the rail and it should have a heat shield. I can’t remember if HOs have a return style fuel system or not.

Does it seem to do it more when it’s up to temp or when it’s shut off? Or is it regardless of the truck’s temperature?

Oh yeah, one of my favorite projects on here.

That looks like it worked pretty darn well. Real good water pressure. Any changes that you want to make now that you’ve slept in it with the WilderNest down? Or was the room good enough?

Any updates on the Syclone, limey?

You need to make sure that the front suspension has no weight on it. So you would jack the truck up, then put jack stands under the frame rails so the wheels are off of the ground, but there is also no weight on the suspension. This will give you enough room to get the pan off and clear the axle with it.

I use this one: It’s available at pretty much every auto parts store. I use half a bottle per oil change. You could also use Valvoline VR1 racing oil as that also has the zddp that you need and is conventional oil. The zinc is used for flat tapper cams like these engines have otherwise you run the risk of wiping a cam lobe or wrecking the lifter. There are plenty of people who don’t use it and don’t have issues. It is most crucial on engine break in. Supposedly the zinc will also clog your catalytic converter quicker. Please don’t just take my word for it. I encourage you to do your own research and decide the route that you want to go.