89 MJ

Let's discuss what you used for paint/primer/clear on your truck, how you went about applying it, and why you decided to go that way with your truck. We don't need part numbers for the supplies that you used, just the brands and where it ranks in their brand (affordable, medium, money means nothing to me at this point levels). Let's also talk about tips and tricks that you have learned from painting. Primer: The high end PPG stuff Bodyfiller: Rage Extreme and Rage Ultra (good show car stuff) Paint: PPG's Omni line (more of their inexpensive line, but my paint was still $250/gallon, so it was still good stuff) Clear: PPG's high end stuff again How my truck was painted: 90% of the truck was stripped to bare metal, epoxy primed, blocked out, filler used where it was needed, primed, blocked, sealed, painted, cleared. Of course, all of that happened after cutting out and butt-welding the rust and using metal shaping tools to get all of the parts together. The truck was painted completely apart, doors, fenders, bed, tailgate were all taken off and painted separately. If you paint your truck the way I did, you NEED to make sure that you paint the part the way it will sit on the truck, otherwise the metallic will "lay down" differently and it will look like your paint doesn't match. Another issue with this is that it is relatively easy to scratch the parts when reinstalling them. A way you could get around that, but still want everything painted would be the method that many bodyshops use. They edge the parts out. On an MJ, this would be painting the front of the bed, door jambs, insides of the fenders, tailgate jambs, rear of the cab, while they are all separate, then bolting everything together, aligning the gaps correctly, masking everything that you already painted, then sealing and painting the truck. Doing paint this way will make sure your metallic is all "laying" the same way and reducing the chances of scratching parts. The issue with this method is that everywhere that you masked off will have tape lines that you will be able to see. This will not matter to most people, but if you are building a show truck, then I recommend the method that we used on my truck, just make sure you put it together very carefully. Of course if you wanted a presentable daily driver/work truck/trail rig, then I would scuff and prime over the original paint, block it, use filler when needed (after getting the dents as straight as possible with metal working tools, block the truck again, prime it, block it, seal it, and shoot some color on it. In this case, especially if it is a backyard/driveway/garage job, I would recommend edging the truck out, then painting the truck together. I would also recommend using a single stage paint, which has clear coat built into it. Single stage often times looks as nice as base/clear, but is more affordable. If you have any other topics like this that you want to discuss, I would be happy to come up with another thread next week.

I see in lots of the pictures of the bodywork that the body shop did that, at that time, the bed was still attached to the cab/rest of the body. Did they take the fenders/doors/bed off when they painted it? Not that it matters, because it is a drool worthy truck, I'm just curious. I know lots of shops do things different ways for different reasons.

Sounds like a plan to me!

I wonder if he still has it...

That's a little concerning TBH. If you have another steering wheel, you may want to try that on your column. From my understanding, the wheel is supposed to go on a little hard and not come off easily.

IMHO, its hard to beat the look of a lifted MJ on big tires, but an otherwise stock appearance (flares, bumpers, etc.). I love this truck.

I don't remember the name of ours off of the top of my head. I really like the idea of this thread though Pete, do you think we should create a couple of threads for similar tools? (torque wrenches, battery impacts, sawzalls, etc.)

That looks like it will be a pretty decent sized shop!

Happy to help!

As long as the steering wheel is pre 95, it should swap pretty easily. Do you have a steering wheel puller? If not, you will need one. They are a nice tool to have on the shelf.

If the flares are easily removed, aren’t you worried about someone stealing them?

I saw it and had to take a picture.

This thing is coming together really well, I love the color. @Pete M, should this be in hardcore tech?

What happens if a vehicle doesn't sell on Copart? I don't need it and I shouldn't get it, but if it will save the truck from getting crushed, I might need to put a bid on it.

I had to house sit for some friends. Their house is heated by wood, so I had to keep it stocked up. I thought it was pretty fun to need to always make sure there was enough wood for the day and night, and to make sure that it was always producing heat. I would consider owning a house that needs wood to heat it.

This will be a pretty cool build!

When's the Hemi swap?

Check out the WI-MN-IA members post I made in the Great Lakes section. I get the feeling that may be a little to far for you to go though.

Pull up the carpet and check your floors for rust first. Don't get discouraged if they are rusty, most of us have had rusty floors in our MJs before. As said by Tim, get yourself a Renix Engine Monitor, seriously, it will be a lifesaver. Check out the link in my signature for a write up on the 3ish inch lift that I did on my blue MJ (see my profile picture or cover photo if you view my account). You could pick up 2 inch spring spacers and do an Add-A-Leaf like what I did in the link in my signature pretty cheap. Add some WJ Grand Cherokee lower control arms, and you will be able to clear 31s easily. Welcome to the addiction!

Or Pete could create a channel and we could put tech tips, MJ wheeling adventures, PowWows, etc on there.

@mark 39, let’s see some pictures! I’m near La Crosse, where are you?

Those things are sexy beasts.

Next time I’m your way I might need to look you up. What is the largest building you can build in your county?

CC Barn Raising anyone?

Looks pretty straight too.