89 MJ

That motor is Knocking in Heaven’s Door

Interesting. I’ll need to read up on that.

Those would all be fun rigs to drive. I love Excursions/Suburban 2500s

We have both Rigid drills and Rigid battery impacts. They have decent power. My dad bought them probably 10ish years ago. They have a lifetime warranty. He has 3 of each. Only one has needed to go in for warranty work. 9/10 would recommend. They don’t have the power of a Milwaukee.

Now you’ve got me wanting to do more towing with my truck!

You pulled over 4,000 lbs with your Comanche???? You're a braver man than I.

There's a Fiat parked near the real Jeeps? On a serious note, I wonder how they managed that!

Nah Burnouts or boosted launches?

That I do not know.

Card games AMC or Chrysler?

Odd question. How do you pronounce the name of this project?

I (actually my mother) ordered a headlight relay harness for my MJ from KSuspension for my Christmas present. She said that the customer service was fantastic. That didn't answer your question, but if you aren't sure if you should buy from them, I'd recommend them.

Those would be cool. A friend of ours owns a tool and die shop. The machines in there are fascinating. Also, you own a Bricklin SV-1, correct? If so, you should start a build thread on it. Those all sound like cool vehicles to own. Imagine the looks that you would get in the Lancia. Do you have a build thread on your 91? I don't think I've read it. I love old crew cabs.

That sounds like quite the adventure. Would you mind sharing more of your experiences when you did this?

As some of you may know, in 2019, CC won the club participation award. It is (IIRC) 87MJTIM's request that we all wear some sort of CC gear and try to get the award again.

This ad says that this Comanche is an 88. Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought all SMJs were 87. Were they spread out between 2 years or did this just have the same typo 3 times? In any case, this looks like it was a VERY nice example of a SMJ.

That truck is so old school it is perfect (besides the rust)

Pete, go big, use an Oxy/Acetylene torch. That'll really get it going quick!

If you are going through the work to change the injector O-Rings, and yours are OEM, you should upgrade to 4 hole injectors. They usually come with O-Rings and are ready to install. Make sure you use some assembly grease (like you would use when building an engine) when you put them back together to reduce the chances of pinching an O-Ring and helping to ensure that it will seal up correctly.

Let's discuss what you used for paint/primer/clear on your truck, how you went about applying it, and why you decided to go that way with your truck. We don't need part numbers for the supplies that you used, just the brands and where it ranks in their brand (affordable, medium, money means nothing to me at this point levels). Let's also talk about tips and tricks that you have learned from painting. Primer: The high end PPG stuff Bodyfiller: Rage Extreme and Rage Ultra (good show car stuff) Paint: PPG's Omni line (more of their inexpensive line, but my paint was still $250/gallon, so it was still good stuff) Clear: PPG's high end stuff again How my truck was painted: 90% of the truck was stripped to bare metal, epoxy primed, blocked out, filler used where it was needed, primed, blocked, sealed, painted, cleared. Of course, all of that happened after cutting out and butt-welding the rust and using metal shaping tools to get all of the parts together. The truck was painted completely apart, doors, fenders, bed, tailgate were all taken off and painted separately. If you paint your truck the way I did, you NEED to make sure that you paint the part the way it will sit on the truck, otherwise the metallic will "lay down" differently and it will look like your paint doesn't match. Another issue with this is that it is relatively easy to scratch the parts when reinstalling them. A way you could get around that, but still want everything painted would be the method that many bodyshops use. They edge the parts out. On an MJ, this would be painting the front of the bed, door jambs, insides of the fenders, tailgate jambs, rear of the cab, while they are all separate, then bolting everything together, aligning the gaps correctly, masking everything that you already painted, then sealing and painting the truck. Doing paint this way will make sure your metallic is all "laying" the same way and reducing the chances of scratching parts. The issue with this method is that everywhere that you masked off will have tape lines that you will be able to see. This will not matter to most people, but if you are building a show truck, then I recommend the method that we used on my truck, just make sure you put it together very carefully. Of course if you wanted a presentable daily driver/work truck/trail rig, then I would scuff and prime over the original paint, block it, use filler when needed (after getting the dents as straight as possible with metal working tools, block the truck again, prime it, block it, seal it, and shoot some color on it. In this case, especially if it is a backyard/driveway/garage job, I would recommend edging the truck out, then painting the truck together. I would also recommend using a single stage paint, which has clear coat built into it. Single stage often times looks as nice as base/clear, but is more affordable. If you have any other topics like this that you want to discuss, I would be happy to come up with another thread next week.

I see in lots of the pictures of the bodywork that the body shop did that, at that time, the bed was still attached to the cab/rest of the body. Did they take the fenders/doors/bed off when they painted it? Not that it matters, because it is a drool worthy truck, I'm just curious. I know lots of shops do things different ways for different reasons.

Sounds like a plan to me!

I wonder if he still has it...

That's a little concerning TBH. If you have another steering wheel, you may want to try that on your column. From my understanding, the wheel is supposed to go on a little hard and not come off easily.