AZJeff

If you install Brown Dog motor mounts, DO NOT use the ones with urethane in them, unless you only do trail riding. The amount of vibration that is transmitted by the urethane for street use will be QUITE noticeable. There is no need to try to source a rad without a trans cooler line embedded. The cooler line only travels up the one end tank, and thus not rob the rad of any fins and tubes. Just cap the two ends of the line on a 3 row rad, and you will be good to go.

Many engines locate the CPS at the front of the engine, and get the trigger pulse from a point on the front crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer. I wonder why Jeep did not choose a similar solution, until I started studying the layout of the front of the engine. I concluded that on an MJ/XJ with the 4.0, due to the extremely limited space in that part of the engine bay, fitting the CPS in the front would be challenging, to day the least.

Mine was a daily driver until I took the engine out to replace it. Once I heal from my open heart surgery, I will put the new (rebuilt) engine into it, and it will resume daily driver status. Then again, the list of stuff I have replaced over the years is so long that I more or less have an almost new 30 year old vehicle 😆

This is VERY TRUE. Many people think the stabilizer will stop or “cure” DW. It does VERY little to mitigate DW on a vehicle that has any of the issues I listed as causes in my above post.

If you search the XJ andZJ forums on the subject of death wobble, the following facts regularly surface as primary culprits: Out of balance or out of round tires. loose or worn steering linkage components, including ball joints loose or worn control arms and/or track bar Note. that the steering stabilizer is so far down the list in mitigating death wobble as to be inconsequential.

Virtually any of the hard plastic vacuum/vent lines on a 30 yr old MJ are going to be super brittle, and they will crack if you even look at them wrong.😁 if you want to fix this once and for all, I recommend replacing all the hard lines with appropriate sized rubber or silicone tubing.

20k is slightly optimistic. Last I heard, the number is closer to 16k. And that number includes vehicles that are registered in some state/province, but make not actually being driven.

Two questions: 1. Did you bleed the system COMPLETELY and in the proper order? 2. When you swapped boosters, was the booster new, or used? Likewise, was the MC new?

If you lack the "Pal Nuts" that screw on to the molded in bosses, 3M Trim Cement will work just fine to attach the emblems. If it were ME doing that job, I would throw out the Pal Nuts and get purpose-made trim cement to attach the emblems. Those emblems are probably close to the last ones to use the primitive and annoying nuts, so using trim cement is an upgrade.

You are 100% spot on with floor mounted bright light switches in northern/rust belt climates. If the vehicle stays in southern climes, those switches seem to survive reasonably well.

The system will leak whether you run it or not. It will just leak faster when running. Adding oil won’t compensate for the loss of refrigerant. R134a molecules are MUCH smaller than the oil molecules. It’s anyone’s guess how long your current leaky compressor is going to have enough R134a to properly function the system. It could be months, or it could be days. Start saving up your coins, because if you want AC, a new compressor is in the cards.

That is compressor/refrigerant oil you see. (Somewhere in the past life of the vehicle it has some green leak detect dye added to it, which helps identify as refrigerant oil, BTW.) If it's leaking oil, it's also leaking refrigerant. It used to be possible to purchase replacement seals for the compressors, but the modern "philosophy" for auto repair is to replace the entire compressor rather than components thereof. So it looks like you are going to need to R&R the compressor. That means empty the system and REPLACE THE ACCUMULATOR, install the new compressor, and evacuate/recharge the system with new refrigerant. Do you know if the system is currently filled with R12 or R134a?

I vote for this approach. The chances of needing to actually remove that bolt once it is installed is slim to none, so going to the trouble of removing the alternator temporarily is worth avoiding the custom nut shenanigans.

The 1999 engines have an improved crankcase vent hose and valve cover that deals with blow by much better.

Loss of the oil cap opens a HUGE leak to the crankcase, which is pressurized to at least some degree on a perfectly working engine. The fact that oil loss drops dramatically without the oil cap tells me a couple of things: 1. Your engine may be quite tired and venting lots of combustion gases past the rings into the crankcase. 2. Your crankcase vent system is not working as designed by Jeep. With the cap in place, it is sealing the crankcase up to a level that the malfunctioning (plugged) crankcase vent system can not deal with. I would run a compression test on the engine to get an idea of how much blow by the rings are allowing to enter the crankcase. I am guessing you have a tired engine spewing lots of blow by gases, and a compression test would affirm or refute that. In addition, I would do the upgrades to the older 4.0 valve cover and crankcase vent system. This will help vent a tired engine more effectively.

I will be odd-man out here: I have run all-metal CSF versions in my previous XJ and now my MJ, and I live in S. AZ, so it’s a high stress environment. I have no issues.

My fittings are nice and clean, in terms of corrosion. It's one of the benefits of living in AZ. I probably would have to spray them out with brake cleaner or the like to get any dust/dirt out of the fitting, but otherwise, they should be good to go. So if I squeeze the two plastic "ears" on the connector together, and pull on the hard line, it should slide out of that fitting that is screwed into the side of the transmission case, correct? And then that hard line has some o-rings and a plastic spacer that seals the connection when it is reinstalled, correct?

I have a leak on one of my cooling lines to my AW-4 where it enters the transmission housing. From the reading I have done on the topic, everyone was recommending replacing the quick connect fitting that screws into the transmission case, along with installing new O-rings on the hard lines where they join this quick connect fitting. There is just one rub---the recommended quick connect fitting from Dorman that screws into the transmission case is no longer available. Does anyone have suggestions on how to stop this leak without winding up using AN fittings and braided hose to replace the hard lines?

I went digging through my 1990 and my 1987 FSM, and cannot see any details about what that valve does as it is related to the accumulator. In fact, they don't even really have a diagram showing the "theory of function" for that AC system, so that added port has me mystified. Maybe someone else who is more attuned to the older (and much less efficient) AC systems can explain what that friggin valve is for.

I think some investigation into the operational theory of that version of AC is warranted before I can declare that valve's purpose. Time to dig around for the FSM for a 1987.

I am a lazy @$$. I buy the connectors with pigtails already attached, and then crimp/solder/shrink wires on to the connector pigtails to make my harnesses. Your method is more elegant, but requires the added tools to crimp, plus the special tools to remove a connector pin if you screw up and need to replace it.

The wiring for the back of a Comanche is so simple that one can make their own harness pretty easily. I chose to use an AMP weatherproof connector, but a Deutsch weatherproof type would work equally well both where the wiring leaves the cab, and where it spreads out for the various sockets. SOLDER all of your connections, and use adhesive lined heat shrink, and you should be good to go.

Those "spring parts" you show look like service port (filling) valves. Can you show a picture of where these are installed in your system? I might be able to answer better that way.

That looks like it will do the trick. Let us know if that fix is permanent

If anything attaches to that threaded stud, it would prudent to somehow figure out a way to distribute the forces that said stud will apply to the epoxied joint, which will mostly be in tension. Since the area of the bonded joint is small, the epoxy has to work pretty hard to keep the joint glued. The best solution would be a combination of adhesive both on the outside and INSIDE, but since that means disassembling the heater box, that isn't probably in the cards. The attached is my suggestion on how to do the best possible bond without having to take the heater box apart and still get a good strong joint. AAA.pdf