AZJeff

Hardened washers are the way to go here. Or, as others mentioned, self-locking nuts. Newer vehicles have moved away from castellated nuts to self-lockers, to simplify production, so I would feel confident in that solution.

THIS IS SOLID ADVICE. The cost of the parts, plus the possible discovery of pitted bores in the caliper body (and no way to fix them yourself) makes the rebuild of calipers at home an exercise in frustration.

That rubber line is just barely long enough in the photo as is, where the vehicle is at normal static ride height. the first time that axle is unloaded substantially, the hose will be damaged, possibly catastrophiccally.

The steering column has electrical switches attached to it for the turn signals and the ignition switch. The turn signals are up at the top, right under the steering wheel. The steering column in your MJ was made by General Motors, so any writeup on how to disassemble a GM column would apply. Pages onwards through 4 of the following write-up should explain how to gain access to the turn signal switch in that type of column: GM column disassembly The ignition switch is on the top of the column down near the brake pedal, and it's easiest to drop the column to work on that piece.

I prefer to just jack up the front axle with a floor jack and cycle the steering linkage from lock to lock rather than trying coax the drag link off the pitman arm. YMMV....

A large piece of heat shrink tubing can be put over the body side of the tailgate hinge to make it a bit quieter. It helps “somewhat”🥴 on mine. I also have a hose clamp on the passenger’s side as a theft deterrent device that also helps a small amount with the hinge slop. overall, the MJ tailgate hinge is pretty hokey in the amount of clearance that is present even without wear on the surfaces.🤣

In Oder to answer your question, you need to tell us how much of the front clip you are removing. is the hood coming off? What about the radiator (and AC condenser, if present)? Is the front grille and grille surround removed?

My experience with rebuilt or “remanufactured” steering boxes has been ZERO percent good for multiple vehicles and from multiple vendors (Oreillys, AZ, Rock Auto, you name it. I tried to get a PSC during the height of the ‘Rona virus, and they were back ordered for months. I gambled and baought a new one from Crown. I have been quite pleased, and it’s an exact clone of a Saginaw box, minus the Saginaw logo cast into the housing. It’s not cheap ($400+), but it works exactly as designed, and I run 32’s.

If there is an Autozone or an Oreillys nearby, you can get the tool on loan from them to take off and reinstall the pulley. there are plenty of YouTube videos on how such tools are used to remove or install the pulley on to the PS pump shaft.

The 4.0 engine in the MJ/XJ runs hot BY DESIGN. With OEM cooling system parts, normal operating temperatures will be about 200* F, give or take 5 degrees, when using an OEM rated 195* thermostat. One should not trust the guage on the instrument panel (and I don’t, because they are only an “approximate” indicator or actual temperatures.) An infrared temperature measuring tool aimed at the thermostat housing will give you the best measurement of actual engine temperature.

I will admit I am not familiar with how the REM device actually measures voltage, so I cannot comment on why you are seeing that device reporting low voltage while the battery is just fine. sorry

For starters, do NOT rely on the guage on the instrument panel to give you accurate voltage readings. Instead, measure the voltage on the battery terminals directly using a VOM. Additionally, with the blower on full tilt and with all exterior lights on, those devices probably draw more current than your alternator can deliver at idle. That would cause a less than fully charged battery to begin to show a voltage slump. this can be confirmed by running engine RPM up to 1500 or higher, and measuring battery voltage with a VOM while all of those devices are turned on.

The Chrysler factor gaskets for the 2.5 and 4.0 engines are not the most reliable in sealing the joint. (To put it in other terms, they suck.) I have used Remflex gaskets for years with no issues. Go to their website, and you will find ones for both of the MJ engines there. They are more expensive than OEM types but they don’t leak/fail with age.

I am about 99% certain that, if the control arms are original, the bushings are dried out, cracked and no longer acting like intended. Rock Auto has OEM style, TRW branded bushings for about $5 each. Other brands are somewhat higher or lower. The rub is that you must have some tools to press the bushings out and in of the control arms. (A Harbor Freight ball joint press will work here.) On the other hand, complete control arms are about $25 each. The upside is that it’s more plug and play (upper axle end bushings not withstanding.). The downside is the added cost. I am lazy, so I prefer swapping the whole arm, and using reputable brands.

The photo appears to show clearance for the fuel linebetween both the booster and the inner fender/chassis. If that is the case, there is no need to move the fuel line. if you are really concerned about rubbing/vibration between the fuel line and the surrounding stuff, clip a pice of rubber hose over the fuel line to act as an insulator.

The kit that was cited is from “Detroit Axle” and that is FULL of parts made from “Chinesium”. That means they are bottom of the barrel quality. I would stay away from that garbage and instead, individually source the pieces for the front end from a reputable source such as Rock Auto.

That parts “kit” on Amazon should work, but the quality of those replacement parts might not be “Tier One” OP would be better served by going to Rock Auto and ordering individual pieces from a reputable brand name. It might be more expensive, but the quality (if chosen from a brand name) will be better.

EXCELLENT SUGGESTION. BTW, I assume the OP has slathered all the crank journals with assembly lube or, at the least, motor oil.

Using screw extractors on small screws can be risky. The extractors are very hard (they have to be to “bite” into the broken screw. That also makes them very BRITTLE, and prone to snapping off if not twisted precisely. And once you have one of those broken off inside the screw, you are in a world of hurt. On small stuff like TB screws, drilling them out and retapping for a Helicoil is less risky that a screw extractor.

If you can find a junkyard unit and do a “restoration/refurbishment”, it might be the best solution. Others that are RENIX experts might know: are the what differences exist (if any) between RENIX TB’s and those used on later engines in the MJ/XJ family? Can a later throttle body be used, because if so, then the field of junkyard replacements expands a bunch.

Getting a junkyard unit is certainly a possibility. Even then, they may require “restoration” before installation on your vehicle. I am a guy who normally tries to fix stuff before I rush out to get a replacement, and that is why I suggested the Helicoil approach.

I assume you have removed the throttle body to get better access to the broken screw, as that’s the only way you are going to properly fix the attaching screw hole. The best fix will be to drill out the old screw and install a “Helicoil” to repair the damaged threads. They sell Helicoil repair kits that include the actual Helicoil, plus the requisite drill and tap to install the Helicoil. To install the Helicoil, you will need a drill press, or at the very least, a bench vise to hold the throttle body while using a hand drill to drill out the screw and tap the hole for the Helicoil. Start by using a prick punch to make a dimple as close as possible to the dead center of the exist screw. Then, using a drill bit smaller than the minor diameter of the broken screw, drill down into the screw as straight as possible. Then increase the drill size and repeat until you have the correct hole size for the Helicoil. Then tap the hole using the tap in the kit, and install the Helicoil. now you throttle body is repaired. All you will need is two replacement screws to attach the TPS. I also recommend you use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new screws, so they don’t bind up in the holes in the aluminum throttle body.

The kind of gaskets used on door handles are a molded thermoplastic that is UV tolerant. Gasket material for sealing auto engine, transmissions, etc. is not make of the type of material that will withstand exposure to direct sunlight for long periods, and will probably deteriorate pretty quickly if used on door handles.

I don’t recommend using any of the supposed “R12 substitute/equivalent” refrigerants in vehicles. Given that the AC system in the MJ was sized to deal with the internal volume of the XJ, the system has MORE than enough cooling capacity to deal with any performance reduction seen by switching from R12 to R134a. If an MJ owner is considering rebuilding his AC system, a proper conversion to R134a is straightforward and will yield excellent results.

New gaskets can be fabricated from 1/16” thick ABS sheet plastic that is available on Amazon.