eaglescout526

9 more posts and our classified sections will open up to ya go browse.

Decided to throw the woodgrain bezel on. Looks pretty damn good. 4wd is working like it should. Seems to turn off from lack of vacuum and turn back on when it has vacuum. Course this is to the axle which is controlled by the selec-trac switch in the console. T-case is still controlled normally. All thats left is to swap the shocks to the air shocks, put that engine oil sensor in to complete the system sentry, get new rear leafs and then get it registered and on the road so I can drive him around and take him to the cruise in. Gotta type up a spec sheet before hitting the cruise in.

No. That’s factory. You’ll find a couple splices like that in the harness. You can always either do away with it and make it safer or cover it in some solder so it doesn’t corrode and wrap it up in some electrical tape and use some wire loom to hide it all.

This is what I wanted to say earlier when I first saw the post. Honestly this is a two way street. I’d be upset with my wife if she asked me to do this knowing full well it’s my love and passion. I told me wife this in my vows to her. “I know you always want attention when I’m working on the Jeeps, but know full well I’m working on such to maintain our future ahead.”

Yikes! How did you end up with a longer pin? Did it not still not do the job of keeping the caliper in place?

Oh wow, I forgot to update that the headliner has been done and is sitting in my truck fantastically. That was easy to remove without having to remove the B-pillars. Now I have a PSA Here is normal brake pad wear Here is abnormal I have only one explanation for this. I went to address my steering and alignment issue one night by checking my ball joints as I cant suspect it being the track bar....but it could be at this point. Not the point. I found that my brake caliper was loosey goosey. Thats odd I thought. Turns out I was missing 3 of the 4 brake caliper alignment pins. How? Why? I do not know. I can suspect someone stole them as its not like they come out super easy. But they could have also wiggled out. So make sure you guys check those and prevent the uneven wear and bring on panic about braking.

GUYS!!!!!!! ONE LIGHT LEFT!!!! I will soon have a functioning system sentry!! This is exciting to say the least! So I was moving some stuff around and stumbled upon a NOS washer bottle for the 84-85 XJ only, maybe 86 2.8L. Anyways, it had the float sensor! So I quickly Ωhmd it out and holy Sugar Honey Iced Tea did it come out to where I needed it, 3.1k Ωhms! Grabbed it out of the bottle, pulled the other one in Chunk out, put it in and you have the short right above this text haha. That being said, should I start doing things with this youtube channel? Im not looking to make money, but if anyone has any ideas or would like to see anything do let me know.

P4 is up on this venture! I got it in. Apparently I can not drill straight for crap! Oh well, its in with a slight leak and it works thats really all I care about right now. No, I absolutely will not show you guys how I did it. I am not proud to say the least but just think on how I could go an accomplish such a feat...

Yeah I need one but heres the thing and its tricky to explain. The system sentry uses a variant of these sensors that Ωhm out to 2-3k while others I have are higher than that and act more of just a switch for the dash lamp. Sicne its an 85, I am hoping that AMC used the 2-3k version until 86 when they phased out the sentry.

This is hilarious. I was just commenting on your post on FB. When you go back can you ohm out the float sensor on the 85?

Oh yeah!! Went with the original fabric but couldn’t get the original pattern locally or cheap so we got something really close and we’re happy with how it turned out. I need to restore the backs and put them on.

Oh yeah they can! The drivers side is a challenge so long the contact isn’t broke or damaged but yeah they absolutely can be rebuilt.

What’s good about this is both ford and GM used these buckles so they’re abundant to rebuild if your internals break.

Hahaha apparently 2. The skinny one believe it or not is the body shop manual.

Just to add to the jealousy haha.

Well yes. They’re not gonna reprint AMC on what they own. They’re gonna brand them all with Mopar. Interesting enough, you could go to the parts counter and order these books. More than likely this is one of those situations where it was ordered to either replace a torn up AMC catalog or a customer wanted such. I have AMC parts books of 84-85 and 86-87 of Jeep. 88 in mopar. Ooooo so that’s what the 91-92 service manuals look like.

Yes. My 84 has it. AMC used it from 84 to early 87. It changed to the later small prop in late 87 early 88.

I’d give the end that goes from the battery to the relay a good clean too along with the other eyelets bolted to the relay. Do let us know if anything changes. Hmmm, I’d almost test the ignition input from the ignition switch to the relay.

This is the black cover. Where I’m pointing is the general area of where the starter relay is.

Nooo. That’s the ignition switch. starter relay is under the hood, by the battery and two or 3 or 4 relays under a black cover(if you still have that cover). Typically there’s 2 relays. Fuel pump and B+ for the O2 heater. Other two would be AC and fog lamps. Starter relay has a big mess of wires on it.

Correct. The starter relay wouldn’t do much of anything. Would provide power everywhere else as it’s the hub of all the electrical on the Jeep. That being said it also sends a crank signal to the ECU and power to the fuel pump. It also has ground there as well that goes to the dipstick tube which grounds out at the firewall and by the alternator on the block to the battery. Id definitely check the battery cables to and from the battery and to the starter relay to make sure there’s no corrosion at all. These things don’t like any sort of resistance what so ever as I stated in my first reply.

Interesting. I did mine the same exact way with no issues to how my headliner sits.

Really? Course I only covered the middle sheet metal section and not the cross bars that’s support the roof and other structural parts. But my headliner has no fitment issue.

How’s the battery and its cables? Grounds cleaned? Usually if you can’t get it to crank at all, it’s usually due to a dead battery or corroded connection. Doesn’t take much for the little 2.5’s to not crank and start.