eaglescout526

This is the sending unit. No lock ring, pump or seal.

What’s the CPS outputting? Any spark? got fuel flow?

You can continue to use the same pump. Float arm has to be changed. pump and sending unit can be separated. They aren’t like modern units where they’re all in one.

Pssst, Pete, he did say he has a long bed. But yes technically all long beds have the 23 gallon tank, the fuel filler tube is longer in the 16 gallon than the 23 thus allowing for less fuel in the big tank.

Yes, fuel pumps are the same, senders are absolutely not the same.

My understanding of bench bleeding is to make sure you have a good unit that wont leak past the seals. Other than that I see no point other than to throw it in then bleed everything at once. The order of bleeding is standard stuff. Start at the rear pass wheel(farthest from the master) then work your way up to the closest bleeder. For the MJ specifically after all is bled is you open one of the front caliper bleeders, bleed allllll the fluid out to simulate a front brake failure and then you bleed the rears again to make sure that emergency bypass is bled and free of air. Then you bleed the fronts again. Tedious but how it has to be done. Grab a bottle and a hose the save the good fluid.

I had actually found some of these on eBay. Im tempted to reach out to the sellers to measure the resistance upside down.

Looking for this sensor. Would be found on 84-86 XJs. System sentry set ups preferred to be where they’re from but if it works and reads 3k Ωhms, I would be highly interested in it.

Skid plate added. As I sit and learn more about the system sentry and experiment to get the washer and coolant fluid sensors to work, I learned the sensors need to have about 2kΩhm resistance in order for the light on the clock to turn off. So I busted out one of my NOS sensors from AMC and plugged it in and it worked like it should. The difference I notice other than the resistance across the tabs is the color of the material used to create such resistance. Rather neat and odd. Now I’m gonna go put a want ad out for such with this knowledge haha.

Twas an odd year for both XJ and MJ. It’s rare to find a full radio delete Jeep. It’s cheaper to have the b-pillars and lower grills be the same than not. My XJ was radio delete till a factory antenna was added and speakers were molested into the door panels that were just like yours. Though I can speculate that it had a radio and only just the rear speakers….beauty of how you could’ve ordered these Jeeps however you want. Fun fact, if you can find one for a clean look, there are lower dash panels without the tweeter grills.

Found it.

And sadly the one I have is for tilt columns.

The v belt portion isn’t used but it helps with spacing properly of the belt interestingly enough. Gonzo I might have one laying around that I know I’ll never need. It also took me a few tries with Napa to get an alt with one of these pulleys but I was able to get one.

I may have one laying around that I can look for. It may be red in color if I remember right but I have a feeling it’s for tilt. I’ll look tomorrow.

I’d smell the gas and take a sample out and see if it’ll light the fumes before dropping in some octane boost.

Didnt it have the original radio?

Mine looks the same as yours. But the A-pillars were first in design then the MJ B-pillar.

The metal ones are the way to go. If that doesn’t solve the problem, suspect corrosion in the front lamp harness connector.

We’re they replaced with the same style socket? I only ask this cause those sockets suck. They’re ford sockets and there’s a metal tab in that socket that is prone to just rusting away and failing all together. The early 84-86 and later 91-96 metal sockets are much better.

Hold on before you go crazy. Are your front sockets plastic or metal?

You’d be surprised what Chrysler kept the same after the AMC acquisition.

Ground for taillights is behind the drivers side tail light assembly. If that was an issue which it might, drivability would be questionable as the fuel pump is grounded there too.

How odd. That T at the bottom of the bolt just clip into a recess in the tray for me. I figured all were the same but maybe not.

I thought the battery tray has clips that hold the ends in place? At least mine does.

A screw went there to hold the top of the B-pillar steady. All those plugs are for is to hide the interior screw heads to clean up the look of the interior and not make it look like the screws to hold them in we’re an after thought. do your A-pillars not have the same covers over the screws?