eaglescout526

Oh yeah I forgot about this. yes there’s some Velcro at both front and rear.

If your fuel gauge isn’t working, check and clean the ground behind the drivers side tail lamp.

Nope. Nothin holds up the back at all. Front is held by the visors and the clips, the pillars basically hold it up. Maybe the headliner is weak in the center?

Gotta know the ins and outs of the beast to conquer it. Haha. That and the TBI is a misunderstood one too. I can imagine that ground for you is dirty if it hasn’t been touched for the past 40 years.

How’s all the bushings back there for the leaf springs? Shackle bushings? How about the U-bolts? Sounds like to me the rear end isn’t securely in place.

Those don’t look factory. At least the terminal connections don’t. The ground cable goes to the engine block by the alternator. That’s where it should be from the factory. Then you have the ground strap from the block to the firewall. Then you have all the sensors ground at the dipstick tube. The. The blower motor, wipers, lights and a few others are grounded out at the drivers side. But with yours being an 86 that may not be entirely standard yet. positive should go to the starter relay and starter itself.

Before I offer my old ones that need the studs pushed out on the flare brackets, have you looked to see if there’s new ones for the XJ being made?

I wouldn’t suspect the ICM just yet. I’d be more suspect of the battery cable. These Jeeps hate any and all resistance to the electrical system. I like to rule out electrical like ground and power resistance before pointing at a module or sensor.

Added some door handle bezels. These are power window, come from the rears of an XJ but perfect if youre doing just power windows or locks. They are for the HO era meaning you will need to find a 5 pin EATON switch.

Ouch.

WA seems to have all sorts of crazy vintage goodies. There’s an Eagle up the road from my MILs house.

Not exactly. My favorite method is to remove the injector and see but you could remove the line at the body or even the plug where a gauge would go.

This is the sending unit. No lock ring, pump or seal.

What’s the CPS outputting? Any spark? got fuel flow?

You can continue to use the same pump. Float arm has to be changed. pump and sending unit can be separated. They aren’t like modern units where they’re all in one.

Pssst, Pete, he did say he has a long bed. But yes technically all long beds have the 23 gallon tank, the fuel filler tube is longer in the 16 gallon than the 23 thus allowing for less fuel in the big tank.

Yes, fuel pumps are the same, senders are absolutely not the same.

My understanding of bench bleeding is to make sure you have a good unit that wont leak past the seals. Other than that I see no point other than to throw it in then bleed everything at once. The order of bleeding is standard stuff. Start at the rear pass wheel(farthest from the master) then work your way up to the closest bleeder. For the MJ specifically after all is bled is you open one of the front caliper bleeders, bleed allllll the fluid out to simulate a front brake failure and then you bleed the rears again to make sure that emergency bypass is bled and free of air. Then you bleed the fronts again. Tedious but how it has to be done. Grab a bottle and a hose the save the good fluid.

I had actually found some of these on eBay. Im tempted to reach out to the sellers to measure the resistance upside down.

Looking for this sensor. Would be found on 84-86 XJs. System sentry set ups preferred to be where they’re from but if it works and reads 3k Ωhms, I would be highly interested in it.

Skid plate added. As I sit and learn more about the system sentry and experiment to get the washer and coolant fluid sensors to work, I learned the sensors need to have about 2kΩhm resistance in order for the light on the clock to turn off. So I busted out one of my NOS sensors from AMC and plugged it in and it worked like it should. The difference I notice other than the resistance across the tabs is the color of the material used to create such resistance. Rather neat and odd. Now I’m gonna go put a want ad out for such with this knowledge haha.

Twas an odd year for both XJ and MJ. It’s rare to find a full radio delete Jeep. It’s cheaper to have the b-pillars and lower grills be the same than not. My XJ was radio delete till a factory antenna was added and speakers were molested into the door panels that were just like yours. Though I can speculate that it had a radio and only just the rear speakers….beauty of how you could’ve ordered these Jeeps however you want. Fun fact, if you can find one for a clean look, there are lower dash panels without the tweeter grills.

Found it.

And sadly the one I have is for tilt columns.

The v belt portion isn’t used but it helps with spacing properly of the belt interestingly enough. Gonzo I might have one laying around that I know I’ll never need. It also took me a few tries with Napa to get an alt with one of these pulleys but I was able to get one.