eaglescout526

Nope. There wasn’t ever any designed.

Definitely 2.5’s are more plentiful and used the same shroud for quite a while. Just make sure you don’t get a YJ or TJ one.

Same fan shroud as the 2.5L. Fun fact, both 2.5 and GM 2.8 share the same radiator and fan shroud. So you might find someone who has one or internet. I know someone recently found an 85 in a yard. It might have the shroud.

I think the only con is just parts. Renix parts are getting harder but we are finding modern alternatives to the parts we cant find. I have found several aftermarket stuff thats not really labeled for Jeep but look the same and are labeled for Renault which shared alot of components.

Sounds like a plan!

Lol fair fair on the stroker. But I think all I can say is just how purely simple Renix is to work on and diagnose with just only a mulitmeter. Most dont like it cause its old and ignore how simple it really is. Sure not alot of info out there anymore but theres a trove of us on here and cruisers tips to help.

XJ would’ve failed if it had the BA10/5 for that long. Haha.

Sounds like he doesn’t know how to work on the ancient stuff. Renix is pretty easy to work with. Cruiser I’m sure would have some witty rebuttal telling you to take it elsewhere or do it yourself. A lot of diagnosis is honestly with a multimeter in which your measuring voltage across the sensors and making sure they’re getting the right 5v and outputting what they should be according to which ever shop manual from AMC. Sure Renix doesn’t offer more power but it’s got some unique advantages that the HO doesn’t have like compensation of using higher octane and being able to work with a stroker. But diagnosing Renix is really easy.

I know I do have some of this stuff on hand as well.

Thank ya!! Only two were and thats the axles. T-case wasnt so bad actually.

Ladies and Gentlemen! I present: The only working System Sentry in the world!

Perfect candidate.

I can look through my 7 or 8 that I have and see what’s broken.

9 more posts and our classified sections will open up to ya go browse.

Decided to throw the woodgrain bezel on. Looks pretty damn good. 4wd is working like it should. Seems to turn off from lack of vacuum and turn back on when it has vacuum. Course this is to the axle which is controlled by the selec-trac switch in the console. T-case is still controlled normally. All thats left is to swap the shocks to the air shocks, put that engine oil sensor in to complete the system sentry, get new rear leafs and then get it registered and on the road so I can drive him around and take him to the cruise in. Gotta type up a spec sheet before hitting the cruise in.

No. That’s factory. You’ll find a couple splices like that in the harness. You can always either do away with it and make it safer or cover it in some solder so it doesn’t corrode and wrap it up in some electrical tape and use some wire loom to hide it all.

This is what I wanted to say earlier when I first saw the post. Honestly this is a two way street. I’d be upset with my wife if she asked me to do this knowing full well it’s my love and passion. I told me wife this in my vows to her. “I know you always want attention when I’m working on the Jeeps, but know full well I’m working on such to maintain our future ahead.”

Yikes! How did you end up with a longer pin? Did it not still not do the job of keeping the caliper in place?

Oh wow, I forgot to update that the headliner has been done and is sitting in my truck fantastically. That was easy to remove without having to remove the B-pillars. Now I have a PSA Here is normal brake pad wear Here is abnormal I have only one explanation for this. I went to address my steering and alignment issue one night by checking my ball joints as I cant suspect it being the track bar....but it could be at this point. Not the point. I found that my brake caliper was loosey goosey. Thats odd I thought. Turns out I was missing 3 of the 4 brake caliper alignment pins. How? Why? I do not know. I can suspect someone stole them as its not like they come out super easy. But they could have also wiggled out. So make sure you guys check those and prevent the uneven wear and bring on panic about braking.

GUYS!!!!!!! ONE LIGHT LEFT!!!! I will soon have a functioning system sentry!! This is exciting to say the least! So I was moving some stuff around and stumbled upon a NOS washer bottle for the 84-85 XJ only, maybe 86 2.8L. Anyways, it had the float sensor! So I quickly Ωhmd it out and holy Sugar Honey Iced Tea did it come out to where I needed it, 3.1k Ωhms! Grabbed it out of the bottle, pulled the other one in Chunk out, put it in and you have the short right above this text haha. That being said, should I start doing things with this youtube channel? Im not looking to make money, but if anyone has any ideas or would like to see anything do let me know.

P4 is up on this venture! I got it in. Apparently I can not drill straight for crap! Oh well, its in with a slight leak and it works thats really all I care about right now. No, I absolutely will not show you guys how I did it. I am not proud to say the least but just think on how I could go an accomplish such a feat...

Yeah I need one but heres the thing and its tricky to explain. The system sentry uses a variant of these sensors that Ωhm out to 2-3k while others I have are higher than that and act more of just a switch for the dash lamp. Sicne its an 85, I am hoping that AMC used the 2-3k version until 86 when they phased out the sentry.

This is hilarious. I was just commenting on your post on FB. When you go back can you ohm out the float sensor on the 85?

Oh yeah!! Went with the original fabric but couldn’t get the original pattern locally or cheap so we got something really close and we’re happy with how it turned out. I need to restore the backs and put them on.