eaglescout526

Yes that ground mod.

Have you done the ground mod for it as well?

I had good luck with Napa pump until 2021 when I changed it out with a Bosch pump to go with my 23 gallon tank and NOS sending unit.

Close and it could do in a pinch in some spots like salvage and where the wire harness is, but interior wise on an XJ wouldn’t do.

You want this one: I searched high and low for these damn things for my XJ and found nothing. The above is the standard GM wire loom clip. These are non-existent.

How badly trashed is it? You should be able to just rebuild the block with new terminals.

How are the fuses? Check those for any corrosion?

What kind of test fitting do you need? I’ve got an 86? Maybe 87 air box with AC, minus the core to test and a heat only box from my 88. But im guessing you need test fits in the dash too.

Part number 1 J3242662 or drop the J for better interchange if needed. Part number 2 8953004981. This one says it’s for the 4.0L which could be 87. 88 and up has 53005309. i think it’s gonna be the J number. If not probably the old AMC number at the second part.

Ahhh yes the year changeover. That’s why your having issues. Theres two temp sensors used for 86 and it’s all dependent on the head the 2.5L has and seeing how the later 4.0/2.5L won’t fit, you’ll need the older one. I’ll get a part number this evening when I get home.

What year is your MJ?

I had nothin but issues with the full one. From it not fitting right, not letting me get bolts in, to having a fuel leak at the gasket. …just trying to help save some headaches

May I suggest using the OEM manifold gasket on the 2.5L which is just a gasket on the intake manifold?

$50 +$20shipping?! The hell?! That’s outrageous honestly. $70 for a reservoir that yes you can’t find much anymore but is only for a small niche of XJ and MJs. $30 and free shipping would be the most I’d ever do and go to get one if I needed one. As said above, junk yard is not a half bad idea to search the older stuff and see what you can find.

Don’t get the crown ones. They’re for the HO and only have one port on them. The Renix 4 ports look exactly like that football but with 4 ports. As far as specs, I think most on the market will hold the same vacuum pressure that the engine will produce. Shouldn’t need anything incredibly strong for cruise control. The GM tin can ones can work as a substitute or any two port ball really.

I mean hell, I’d buy it just because it’s an 85 waggy and it’s not something you see. Sucks it doesn’t have the nameplate for the front header which is offset to the drivers side but I might have one for it. Also a base waggy but still cool as hell and luxurious. Shame the original owner didn’t get it with the system sentry that would be another reason to snag it. But the only thing I’d have to worry about as is is just the carb and vac system. Otherwise it would be a fun driver until the engine just craps the bed.

More than likely unless you want to run a carb on the 3.4L and send it then that should be the easiest route with the AMC|Jeep wiring and set up.

85 waggy. Nice. Don’t see to many that survive these days. Let alone be in nice shape even if the paint is meh. Honestly I’d keep it pure. But that 2.8L is gonna make you want to sell it in the future. You can drop in a 4.0, but you’ll definitely have to beat the firewall to accept the 4.0. And you’d have to swap everything else with the 4.0 as well. That being said, an easy bolt in without any issues is the GM 3.4L of the same family. That can be carbed or fuel injected and you can keep the trans and t-case without swapping those. If it was me, I’d drop the 3.4L in, go fuel injected and enjoy it.

I think it’s fair to here, haha. I mean luckily it’s not the diesel.

He does say Rochester and mechanical pump for fuel so it’s the GM one. Little history, the carb sucks, not fun to work on and has minimal adjustments due to all the emissions stuff that had to be tied in. Often times an engine swap to a 3.4 with carb of fuel injection is the better route to take. But don’t expect too much power from the V6. It outputs less than the 2.5L.

Yeah, its still around. I dont notice it much anymore but I take it into fact that you have three bulbs blinking at once can be hell of a demand electrically. I imagine if you went to LED the issue would go away. Given how both XJ and MJ are wired and alot seem to share the same ground wire at a splice in the dash, in the engine bay and at the chassis, theres bound to be a some other circuits affected. Its like when a high demand appliance like an AC in your house can make the lights dim for a second and back to normal after the appliance is running.

Welp, the AZ heat finally got to me and has tasked me to address my headliner. The tweed headliner we did back in ‘16 is finally sagging badly to where it’s bothering me. You know, I’m surprised it held up for so long. I did notice it starting to sag in ‘20 but it just got worse. Time to slather more glue on and hope it sticks another 10 years haha. I might have to look into a new headliner board at that point.

I’d like to suggest some pics of what we’re looking to help you with here. Typically the 4.0 and 2.5 have a fan clutch that’s held on by four nuts on the water pump.

Yeah 18 and 23 are the exact same sending unit.

If it’s the original tank, it will have a date and gallon plate by the sending unit opening. Long beds came with 16 or 23. 16 will be identified by a shorter arm on the sending unit and the filler tubes inside will be longer than the 23 gallon.