eaglescout526

Congrats! remind me to pick your brain about the 2.5L mods you did.

We can call the post AMC belts Bendix belts. That’s who made those.

That’s a good PSA. When every brand had their own seatbelt before standardization.

11mm and a lot of extensions work too. Just make sure you don’t lose the bolts. They’re special.

Some started that project, said screw it and got $200 of scrap.

No problem at all!

I like the name attached as to who in memoriam it is for. Which means hornbrods might need to be altered if you want to keep consistency. I wonder if doing outlines of the flares to allow for color matching will help.

Yes, its pretty easy to stick the leads in the connector and see what it is outputting while cranking. .02VAC is the absolute bare minimum but honestly, dont settle for that. Factory Siemens/Renix CPS output .05VAC with .03VAC being the lowest. Shoot for something that will do .03VAC.

Correct.

Have you tested the CPS to make sure it is outputting more than .02 VAC?

So what is circled in picture 1 is irrelevant to 87-90 Renix. Pic two and three go to each other. It is the vac line for the heater control valve which opens and closes off coolant to the heater core. It is highly recommended to get it hooked up again seeing how you have AC.

Theyre for a very old set up I’m putting in my XJ. 84-85 only were the model years it was available. I know they can be adapted to use on an MJ if you found the whole thing. So this isn’t something that will plug n play in an MJ. What I have is the last NOS in the world. There’s some number on it but it’s not the AMC number which I don’t have at the moment.

It’s probably half a quart for both axles given the locations as where they should be.

A good dryer or washer will do good for repair panels if your in a financial pinch.

That’s an idea! Maybe an armored thicker one would allow for the original cover to get trashed with the sensor in place. It looks for level based on the continuity used by the fluid. The oil completes the circuit and let’s the module know it’s full. Once there’s no fluid to complete the circuit, it shows it as empty.

No problem! How are the contacts on the fuse itself? I know lately I have been battling corroded fuse legs on my XJ and barely supplying 12v to what its powering.

Wild thought. Is the trans fuse blown? I have no idea if the fuse affects power going to or from the switch though.

I know this is XJ but honestly, I can barely trust facebook groups to not give me 30 likes and zero advice. And I dont want to join an XJ forum when I know all of you guys are the best and can give a good answer or an opinion on stuff. So on the D30 AMC located its oil sensor on the left side of the pumpkin if you are looking at the pumpkin from behind. This one surprises me, rather AMC just make one axle and issue a plug kit for each on that doesnt have the system sentry, they made two. One with the sensor hole and one without. Same goes with the D35. My 30 does not have the plug nor hole, I want to add it to the 30, but drilling on the side where it goes will be tough as I would either have to cut the LCA bracket, I see that as a BIG no no. Or I drill a hole through both LCA brackets and get to the spot where the sensor goes but I would need to get the right size drill bit in an extreme length. Course another option I have is to drill a hole in the front of the D30 cover and put it there, but from the looks of everything, it looks rather small and compact to where that also could be a challenge. What would you guys do? Pic of the sensor:

JL is the trim and drive. 62 is the long bed.

Wanna put an AMC logo on those? Haha.

No. 87-90 did not have this. Only the YJ and 86 XJ and MJ had said switch. It was replaced by the power steering pressure switch as a WOT switch.

I literally walked into oreillys, bought a cheap reflective one and cut to fit.

I’ll have to look in my TBI book and get back to you. Since it’s a switch, you probably will be looking for continuity while closed and open with open throttle. Just a guess.

The CTS is in the ISA actually, it’s a set of contacts that tell the ECU when the throttle is closed. It’s interesting how they set that one up.

Check the ground, see what resistance exists between it and the ground at the battery. It’s interesting that you have this random rev hang on a 2.5L. Let me do some more thinking and reading on this to see if I can come up with any other probable causes.