eaglescout526

Is that the TCU connector? Do you have an automatic?

Sadly my understanding is meh. I’ve watched many YouTube videos on old computers and even a guy who works on vacuum tube stuff but nothing is taught about values and what they are and how they came to be. So I guess more my issue is understanding the components that help drive something like a radio. I’m more looking to try to fix simple stuff like a radio or even the older tachometers for the 84-86 XJ clusters.

Thanks guys! I started reading a wikipedia article on resistors the other day. Not a great source but it wont steer you wrong either. Are there any books out there? Maybe something that radioshack offered back in the day?

What?! Dammit! I never got the chance to meet him. Very unfortunate to read this morn.

Got the ECU and System Sentry computer mounted. I couldnt believe my eyes once I found that the bracket matched where it is now. I thought maybe its somewhere stupid and Id have to make something to get the two to live together but nope! Got that mounted, made a custom bracket to mount the ECU to the old CEC fuel feedback ECU screw holes and now they are in there together. They both clear the gas pedal and thats all I need. Got the lower dash mounted, it is all coming together and the end is in sight as I add every piece back to this thing. I decided to roll with the older lower dash which does not have the speaker grills for the tweeters but I still have the tweeters in. I also found out with this radio that if I tune to the number up, its loud as hell but grainy sound. I did fiddle with the pots on the back of the radio and got no where which makes me think something is wrong with the tuner and could be misaligned somehow. I dont know but as I learn more about these radios, I hope I can fix this one. For now, enjoy the progress! I hope to get to the T/A soon.

Usually the street MJs are referred to the 100 MJs that archer brothers made with a California dealership to give the MJs a more aggressive street look to them. They can be identified by a plaque on the glove back stating “street Comanche — of 100” and the body kit to go with it.

Got the other set of flaps on and changed the drum shoes as well. Installed this from G: So this one works, volume is meh and to hear anything at all, the volume knob is at max...makes me wonder if a capacitor is failing or needs some time readjusting. We shall see. I have two others, wiring on one is cut and the other produces no sound at all(thank you again G). So I plan to learn more about electronics and hope I can fix all three.

The emergency shuttle should just reset. I know when my front line burst and learned that mine works that I was able to replace the hose and bleed as normal. I think the only way that shuttle works is based on pressure from the pedal.

Any members on here able to teach me about circuit boards, resistors and capacitors? Or anything out there to help teach me?

There was some. But they did body welding, not much else.

One side down. Drivers to go. Per the instructions of the rear flaps, you have to take the wheel off. So I took this opportunity to do the brakes as well since I knew they were failing/old. I was right, only about a 1/4 of life left on the pass side shoes. Heres the NOS ones on:

Yup. It’s a rubber block that honestly wasn’t great to begin with. Simple vac lines will do. The throttle body you’re looking at above is an 87-90 TB. It’s missing the other two ports that your 86 has. So don’t worry about that small detail.

Ok if the ISA has never been touched then it’s more than likely vac leaks like Ωhm pointed out. That block at the base of the throttle body on 86’s are notorious for that. A TSB exists to replace that block with just straight vacuum lines to get rid of the problem all together.

Have you adjusted the ISA at all? Did you buy the MJ from someone who was battling the same or similar issue? If that’s the case I suspect they adjusted the ISA when they shouldn’t have. That being said, unplugging the ISA won’t do anything. The ECU controls that. It should move back and forth to adjust the idle and at shut down it should go back into ready position to make the next start up easy. I have a whole DIY thread on how to adjust it by the AMC TBI service manual.

It would be Velcro’d to the lower dash panel connected between to connectors that actually can be plugged into each other for non wiper delay. That being said, the wiper stalk/signal lever is also a dead give away if it has a indicator on the wiper control that is a white line representing the intermittent frequency till you get to lo and hi. If you don’t have it at all, you have to have the module and the switch the stalk goes into.

Time to start adding some accessories! Yes, NOS flaps, painted letters and a vinyl AMC logo. All around. Still to do: Speedo cable, down pipe, running boards, wiring for tcase fluid sensor, install oil sensor, front drive shaft, power for trailer controller harness, ECU mounted, sentry module mounted, lower dash and dash trim bezel. I probably am forgetting a couple others but that is still a good chunk. Ha! Chunk!

How did I get here?: Well everything is working as it all should be minus missing the down pipe and having the front drive shaft installed. Its still a bit of a mess but I am happy with this mess. Theres a few things out of place but thats ok, I will get to them which is the sensor for the engine oil and the brake sensors. Cruise control has been installed, not sure if it works yet, cant really go take a test drive without the down pipe. Had to use the later style bracket fun fact. Couldnt use the old one as I finally found out where the old style mounts and its where the ICM goes. Smart place to put and hide it in 84-86 but thats why the servo looks like an after thought for the Renix years. I am still fighting a weird issue with the sentry as it thinks the fluid for the washer bottle is empty yet it isnt. Its based on resistance to ground which theres plenty of but its not sensing that. Continuity is good at both coolant and washer sensors. Brake and PS are working just fine as well and are on the same connector and ground. Sensors are NOS and I want to doubt them, but cant as I have a NOS one in the MJ that works and triggers the light just fine. The sentry is no different. Oh well, maybe they just need to get a little warm. But it runs and drives, nothing is out of place and as it was before the TBI swap.

Yes any year will work. Knuckles actually changed twice. 84-86 used the 4wd style knuckles where the rotor is separate from the hub and the later years went to a all in one rotor hub assembly. Thats the only other difference you can run into and something to definitely note when you change the rotors out.

Blast the hell out of it and itll plug back in just fine, a bolt is what keeps it in place while driving. Oh and put down a rag or something cause it will get very messy.

I just used electrical contact cleaner from Mopar and just blast the absolute ever lasting hell out of the C101. Anytime I have an issue, I spray that connector thanks to the grease inside getting warm and moving around. That being said, it’s not fragile, more sensitive to what you do if it’s not clean. Cleaning it out is an option as well.

No problem!

I’m pretty sure Renix is 0-88 ohms

That’s interesting that you need proof to be in a car club that acknowledges it as antique to obtain a historic plate. If that’s what you are going for. I’ve always heard the rule if it’s 30 or older, it’s an antique. In AZ they will hand out historic vehicle plates to cars from the late 90’s which are just barely 20. But I guess we are if you look at it with the oldest MJ being 38.

It depends on how it’s saved. If your on a PC, edit it, rotate it, save it and then repost the pic. Same if you’re on mobile as well. It’s not the site it’s how the file was coded.

Are you sure you’re losing voltage? Has the system been charged recently? The system has a pressure switch that will let the 12v through to power the relay to engage the clutch. If the system has no pressure, it won’t pass the voltage on.