eaglescout526

Theres quite a few members on here in cali. Anyone here able to lend him a hand? If youre gonna take it to a mechanic again, get two books, The Jeep Comanche Factory Service Manual and the AMC|Jeep Throttle Body Injection Service Manual and have them read and study how to work on your truck. A Volt meter would be all you need in this situation. This way if we can diagnose its the CPS, you could order one, have a shop then swap it in.

You don’t have a volt meter? Most of us here don’t trust mechanics these days to know what they’re working with when it comes to these old Jeeps. They want plug n play and let the computer tell them what’s wrong. Chances are you’re gonna keep blowing money till you get an old timer who knows how to work on these and use a volt meter. I don’t mean(and not trying) to sound harsh, but from the sounds you have wasted enough money that the help of us can help you better than a mechanic can. The computers these Jeeps use are pretty easy to work with and all the sensors are based on voltage input, output and ground resistance to operate per the factory spec. I encourage you to get a volt meter and not waste anymore time at a mechanic.

When you open a new post box, there’s a paper clip and two options down at the bottom of the box. You can drag the files that you want to upload to that paper clip or hit the add files button and browse for your pics you want to upload.

Ok I hid some stuff. We’re confusing the OP. OP has the 2.5L and has a heat soak issue. No heat shield will fix this, lets look at electrical possibilities.

Guys, he’s got the 2.5L. Heat shield won’t help since he’s got the TBI OP, I would look into testing your CPS when this happens. When it’s heat soaked, take a volt meter, have it set to AC, stick the probes into the connector for the CPS at the sensor, crank it over and see how many volts it generates when heat soaked. Chances are, that’s the issue.

Ok. What component(s) are getting heat soaked? What is this issue you’re having? When you say heat soak, it sounds pretty broad and vague. I’ve had mine for 8 years out here in AZ with no problems of heat soaking. If it’s a starting issue after shut down, your CPS or coil could be failing. 4.0L and 2.5L are very different from each other. 90% of everyone on here has the 4.0L. We’re the 5% that has the 2.5L.

I thought so.

I knew the YJ got it. I was wondering about the transmissions that got mated with the 2.5L in its run.

Indeed! But, I’m going fuel injection and need the CPS opening from the bell. Did the YJ get the AX5 with the TBI?

They don’t offer the shaft extender anymore. I further appreciate the research. I’ve decided to stay as original and era correct with the equipment on this build along with having the early year oddities.

I thought about that, isn’t that variant of the 242 harder to find though?

207 goin back in. AX5 wont accept any variant of the 228/9. Neither will the AX15, fun fact. But we may have found a way to still have "selec-trac" and have the 207 at the same time.

5"x4" for the fronts. I believe. Or they might be 5x5.

I would try to do away with the 207 if you’re putting that in.

250,000 miles

Ok so I found out the 229 will line up, but the output shaft to the trans is too small and the shift rail bolt plug is stopping it from fully seating. So I will still be going the route of getting a t-case from a yard. On the bright side, I found the plug for the sensor on the trans I also found out this trans can not have the up-shift lamp switch unless I drilled and tapped the hole and well, i dont need the lamp haha.

Hmmm. Perhaps I need to give it a shot then and see.

It’s actually too big. It’s meant for an SJ but when I bought it, I was thinking AMC and thought, well I can’t see them making different sizes for the full size and compact so it should fit. I put my 207 next to it, measure the spacing between the studs and measured the input shaft width and well they’re close but not enough to install.

Well I got the trans and t-case down and out. Turns out I can’t use my NP229. So now I’m back to hunting for a 228 or 9 from an XJ. I managed to get the old bell off and flywheel, nothin hard there. Got the fuel injection wheel on and test fitted the new bell and use the right bolts as the two bell houses are different in the manner of the bolts used and obviously the CPS hole. That being said, for some reason the CPS is sitting really really close to the signal teeth, like both bolts in and moving the flywheel will break it close. I dont know why but I’m just gonna leave one bolt hold the CPS so I don’t damage it. The flywheel and bell are from the same engine so I am unsure as to why this is but it’s something I can live with. Got the new starter in too. Made a new signal wire from the relay to the ECU and starter. Put power to the XJ, bumped the key to engage the starter and holy crap did it work!! This means my wiring is correct! It’s very tempting to plug in the CPS though and have it fire off…but I’ll wait a moment for that as I’m waiting on a new clutch disc since I’m already here. I have a short clip of me engaging the starter and cranking it for a couple seconds. It seems like everything is working as I did smell gas from the throttle body area. Anywho that’s this weekends update.

So rather than restore it they’re just parting it out? Especially since it’s in good shape? This sale doesn’t make any sense.

I’ve got some. I’d have to test them first. FYI. They can’t really be had new but there’s a GM one that’s close that would do but you’d have to modify the wiring.

It should be pretty instant and responsive to temp change.

Factory running boards!!

Wait? You did this on a 2.5L?

Thanks guys and they really are! what’s bad is it was just an unplugged plug to the module that was stopping it from functioning haha.