eaglescout526

You dont have AC do you?

ISA adjusted properly though?

The foam for the evap and core would be a best seller too. Sad that theres at least 3 different variants of that foam.

God. just looking at your old ones makes me wonder how much cold air flow I am losing to the dash.

You’ll have one hell of a market if you produce these.

Shoot me a PM for the belts. They are set up for that config. I used to run that set up before finding the AC parts. Yes. 84-86 are totally different animals all their own.

Yes that’s it. I’ll grab the belt part number this evening for ya. Wait I have two of them actually. Both are lightly used. Probably under 500 miles if you want them.

Yup! That’s it!

What a F---in mess!! And I dont even have the vac harness set up yet! Haha. Heres some more progress I have been making. I should be ready to drop the trans in the next week to replace the flywheel and bell house. I am making head way with the sentry. I am understanding it little by little. It seems when I remove the positive cable and mess with one of the floats, and then put the cable back on, it will show the light for that fluid off. Right now only PS and brake light will turn off. Brake light I just topped off and the PS I simply flipped it upside down. I dont know why the other two wont, but the system is looking for resistance values. These floats I have simply could be on off switches. I do have an AMC one I could test and see if it also has resistance or not. But heres the update.

Yes you’ll need a shorter belt. Junk yard. 2.5L without AC is more common than with AC. I know I have a couple brackets but they’re missing the idler pulley. i can post a pic later but I know there’s a a few in my build thread too.

Yes it’s called a door check. It should be mounted in the middle of the door if you’re looking at the hinges. If there’s no bar there at all, it’s been removed and there should be a bracket bolted to the cab frame where the bar sits with a pin that holds it in place. The metal construction of the checks isn’t great and over the years resulted them to break inside the doors. these can be had new or used. Much better to go new. Though there is a way to convert the rear checks of an XJ to the front but you need the bars from the front to do that.

Yes, replace the whole bracket with just the alternator only bracket. I have one....shoot I think it has a idler pulley on it as well and I know I dont have one but yet have a couple brackets.

1984-85 only for the system sentry on an XJ. I know, I know they are getting more and more rare. I am searching to see if any GM vehicle had this sensor as it fits the saginaw steering pump that GM commonly used. I broke my level float, its fixed, but I dont know how long it will last when its being baked in the fluid. If i find a GM car that had it, I will edit this post.

Indeed!! And it seems to be functioning like it should be. Now the lights are working like they should per the FSM, helps to ground the level sensors haha. Whats odd is the sentry remains on in the key off position. I guess once I get to the point where I am able to get him running and driving, I will be able to figure out more.

I wonder if there’s a GM equivalent out there for non tilt.

Massive update to go with the pic. So first thing, this is wired up correctly. Now the fun part that I dont know is why the lights go off in the run position but are on in the off position. I have a theory and it could be linked to the engine off wire and not getting that signal. Fuel pump primes and I can hear it which is great news. It sounds weak and I dont know if thats due to the pump being just old or I have some other issue somewhere. I kinda suspect I didnt sink the terminal in place but I swear I did, I will double check that. Everything else seems to be up and working minus the auto leveling as thats unplugged. I did plug in the ECU, that seems to be working. I did only one test and that was to the TPS and it is outputting 5V like it should. This is so god damn EXCITING!!

You’re welcome!!

Yeah. I miss doing it though.

With the MAP plugged in, are you able to manually open the throttle and get a good idle or will it have issues if you do that? id manually open the throttle from the engine bay as you can open it more slowly by hand than with your foot.

Can you post a pic of the ISA with the engine off and running?

Ok no not that one. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a Chrysler proprietary plug.

No, all I know is it is GM, Jeep used it too. My 79 firebird has the same connector for its cluster. Ahh that temp sensor plug.

Like the cluster connector? Thats GM. Oh that reminds me, there is bullet connectors in all the years. I feel like it is pack con or a version of as it uses the pack con terminals I dont know this one, but I oddly enough know that the original keyless entry board uses a VW/Audi connector. The angled one on the block head or a different one? I feel like that is just an angled bullet connector if thats the case. Plenty of older cars used such.

I know a good chunk of them. I’ve found 84-86 used pack cons, weatherpack and molex. 86.5-90 used metri, weatherpack and pack con. Radio connector is that Jeep|Eagle connector. The one I would like to know is the headlamp connector.