eaglescout526

More than likely. I was actually surprised as I have never removed my switches from the door jambs. But it looks like the nylon clip that holds the terminal to the switch has just failed to hold the terminal to the switch. I’d give it a look. Maybe soak it in some vinegar to remove any corrosion if it still is in good shape.

Damn. Its been a bit huh. Well she still lives. Duh, runs like a champ. But im here today to show this gem: My key in chime failed. Ok thats fine. Ill order a new switch for the column cause that usually brakes from the stress. Plot twist. The switch isnt broke. Ok thats weird. Did some power tracing. Found I had no power, weird. Found a popped fuse. I think I did that when the switch contacted the column. Replaced it, still nothin. Ok. Busted out the MJ electrical manual. Found the chime circuit, went to the dome lamp as well. Decided to take the switch out and found the 40 year old switch is broke. Alright, thanks for your service switch. Dug out my NOS one, put it in and We are back in business with a new switch too. That is all. I need to add some stickers to her from boxyjeep still. Been lazy.

I think I see a factory tail gate end cap.

All

Have you cleaned your grounds?

This would be a great time to add the relay harness upgrade. Have you checked your fuses?

Those are ford?! Jeez. Someone copied someone.

Lol. It really is. I see Toyota axles, custom rear frame, rear control arms. It’s for someone looking for a crawler half done. It’s niche.

That’s gonna be a tough sell.

For that cluster, I can see $200 being reasonable. It’s speedo is up to 115mph vs the 85 that was standard. Plus column shift and gauges.

Mechanical speedo went away in 91. 91-96 would be digital.

No problem! This should almost always be a must for any new 2.5L owner.

Idle Speed Actuator. Its at the front of the throttle body close to the valve cover when looking at the intake from the front of the MJ.

I have a DIY on TBI ISA adjustment. Should help with your start up being a hit or miss. The ISA after the engine is off is supposed to extend and be ready for the next start up. If it isnt doing that or the PO messed with the adjustment screw on that ISA, the start ups will be a hit or miss.

Ok good I can delete this wire. Thank you so much! I must’ve glossed over that when searching.

First, Ωhm ive dug through the electrical manual and for the life of me I cannot find this one wire on C104 at cavity F, blue wire. Have no idea where it leads I suspect C103 or C105 Anyone with an 86 4.0L, can I get some help on seeing where this one wire goes? I have my doubts I need it but I dont want to remove it if I find out I will need it later on. C104 is a ten wire connector that looks different from the rest at the passenger side by the shock tower or relay center. I will follow up if I need to figure out where any others go.

With V-belt?! I think we need to look at the date code on that block.

I know they existed but I’ve never seen an 84-86 2.5L with no PS pump or brackets. That’s probably factory. PS was an option still.

Wow. Power steering delete all together. Is it a V-belt set up?

Hes gonna need an 86 electrical manual, which I do have. I really need to get all my books into a pdf. Or transcribe them.

3B Seabring Red

What a basket case. Can we get some pics of the engine bay? I have a DIY on adjusting the ISA. It is highly recommended to go over cruiser54's tips and get those taken care of as well. If I can get some pics, I can help out. But theres a few things that would make it fall flat on its face. Vac leaks, manifolds not being snug to the block, MAP, TPS and or a bad head gasket.

Plot twist! I found the harness I need. I have had it all along lol. PSA everyone, go through your Jeep crap! Never know what you have. Now to dissect this harness so I can have the wiring I need and get it all routed and together and I can move forward with installing the manifolds. This is really interesting to do. I have been studying the hell out of the 84, 85, 86 and 88 electrical manuals to make sure I get everything to line up properly. Which it all should now.

Haha, sorry I couldn’t help but laugh a little. I presume you mean oil in your coolant. Because those two are the same thing in the automotive world.

Ok funny thing about this. I was a dingus and had the wrong ground connected. I now figured out that if I jumped the two grounds or even jumped the ground at the starter relay this way, it will run. Everything else isn’t entirely necessary. i found there are two AC related wires, coolant sensor(cluster), tach signal(cluster), up shift lamp, reverse lamps and 4wd light are at this plug including ground. So I have that figured now. Just waiting on the other half of the harness now haha. Which brings me to here Getting closer. This is the early 86 Renix relay bracket. So you see the starter relay, fog lamp lamp relay, O2 relay, fuel pump relay and the diag connectors. I used the old diag connector bracket holder, drilled two holes into the relay bracket to hold these connectors. I say it looks pretty well actually. Added two missing wires from when I yanked out the engine wiring. Added the alt wire and ignition wire. I might be missing one or two more but won’t know yet. I also know I need to tie in power to the ECU from an old yellow splice on the main harness. Next will be labeling the system sentry wires and where they go and what all plugs I will need to replace.