eaglescout526

Very. Most have been destroyed with time. If you find one in a yard, don’t hesitate. Or if you find one for a steal.

84 and 85. Possibly early 86 if it’s using the header panel we know.

84-90 grills are the same. 84-87 are 10 slots and 88-90 is the 8 slot. 91-96 is 8 slot but Chrysler changed the HO years to be a three piece grill set up versus the 7 piece set up AMC used. That’s probably the difference your seeing is the 10 slot vs 8 slot. So it’s a preference on which slot you want to run. Unless you find a 21 slot and join that club. 91-96 grill parts will require the header panel to be changed out to the same year. 97-01 will obviously need to have the header changed to use any parts for that grill set up.

Straight from the 2.5L AMC TBI book As for the other part, I would get a hose that will fit snuggly over that and join the two pieces together. You will need that together or you will end up with a high idle after the ISA adjustment. The ISA bolt is supposed to make contact with the throttle plate, the ECU uses the ISA to adjust the idle speed.

We don’t have an IAC. We have an ISA that’s in front of the throttle body that requires specific adjustment procedure than the 4.0L IAC. I can get you a part number for the distributor this evening. I don’t think it’s similar to the HO years.

Did you get the SJ guys?

DAMMIT! I knew I should’ve bought it. Damn responsibilities.

I feel like I’ll have to document this system once I get it up and running.

It’s a GM engine. Plentiful in GM cars from the 80’s. Shouldn’t have any trouble looking under those cars.

Greeting from last year! Haha. Happy new year y’all! See ya in 2024!

It was a factory accessory.

I’d hardly say going from a single stream injector to a 4 hole with better atomization a bad thing.

With Renix, there’s a priming sequence of the fuel rail. If you click the ignition to run, the fuel pump will run for two seconds to fill the line and pressurize the rail and then you start the engine. That should help with your long or multiple cranking.

Are you talking the one on the dash? If it’s the dash, new ones should be made. 84-96 they were the same. Now if it’s the front headlight connector behind the drivers side headlight, i don't know if anyone knows that connector name.

Merry Christmas y'all! Hope everyone got what they wanted and are spending time with family.

86 2 door limited with hidden winch, black roof rack, rear vent windows. What else does it have? That was a nice XJ.

Ok maybe a touched up a few more things haha.

I edited your 2.5L for 84-86. Serpentine belt was around but it was incredibly rare for 84-85 and uncommon for 86. I speculate it was an optional set up and with what parts were available from AMC. But I have seen 84-86’s with serpentine belts.

I did find that one and tried to start my truck with that ground connected and no dice. I figured out that it needs the coil signal to the tach to start as well. C104_A is also most likely why she wouldnt start. SO translating that from the 84 harness to the 89 harness should be fun. Just don't know if I should keep using the sealed metri-150 or go with something AMC would use in 84 which would be a weatherpack.

Ok so I lied about having the t-case done back in november. It actually wasnt done. I got it close to being together, I tested the shifting and spinning of the gear train and it was tough as all hell. Well I learned I should have taken it apart and built it the way the FSM specifies to do it, duh but I didnt because I saw I could take a short cut that I couldnt take unless I got the planetary gear aligned with the teeth down at the bottom(input shaft) of the case. Which I couldnt make happen no matter what I did until I took it apart the FSM way and reassembled. That being said it now sits awiting the halves to be mated. But I had to get this done: This was scary as all hell to do. Not like I can go get an NP228/9 case half these days. But I did this very carefully, matched threads and drilled undersize before getting to the right size, I have drilled oversize before and would rather drill under than over from what I have learned. So that is the fluid sensor for the system sentry in place and ready to read the level of the t-case once it is full of fluid. Next is to get the engine harness installed and start setting stuff up in the engine. I have come across something interesting with this harness. It is an 89 harness so it is clean and C101 free, but it has a connector C104 by the RH shock tower. I disconnected the one on my MJ and it prevents my truck from starting. I looked at the electrical manual and found it in a couple places with all 8 of the pins being used but yet none relate to starting. Couple are for AC, 4WD indicators, temp sensor and tach, yet nothing related to the starter. Gonna be fun to figure out.

No problem! It’s an absolute must for MJ owners. Those terrible ford sockets were not a great choice.

You know, I did catch that. I wasn’t gonna say anything because I actually like it. Chunk is gonna be a couple different tones for the interior color but I agree with you, the honey is a nice color. Honestly the tans do better in multi tone colors than the others. Maybe the blues and burgundy interior but that’s it.

Replace the headlamp harness connector with something sealed so that doesn’t happen. For the solid blinker on the dash, it means that a ground is bad in one of the sockets. It’s advised to upgrade to the early and later XJ sockets which are metal and better designed.

AMC used the quartz ones. Chrysler used these cheap LCD ones. I forgot I sent you the ones I had. So I really just have one in my possession hahaha.

Anyone know what to do with these clocks? I have a few of these clocks, the circuitry works but the LCDs are bleeding or have bled. Been tossing around the idea of sourcing just new internals and putting them in but haven’t really dig deep enough to find anything. I also thought that maybe they would be good candidates for the REMs to have a cleaner, less 3D printed look to them but that might be more demanding of modifications. But there’s that idea if anyone has a clock REM and is interested in the look that would come closer to the factory look.