eaglescout526

See I have thought this many times. But the two times I have put in a new track bar, the axle gets or is aligned. I think my sway bar is pushed in on the ends from the axle being misaligned for so long. I think my grandfather drove her with a screwed up track bar for longer than he should’ve. He did say he did some light off-roading too. i can buy a new sway bar and compare.

I think they’re the same silver used on the Jeep 5 spoke wheels.

GM probably still does this with the truck and SUV line. Ford probably does as well. Chrysler miiiiiight.

Thats AMC cutting costs right there.

It’s a 2wd axle, i don't know the thickness of the sway bar sadly. It’s probably 24mm.

Still stock. No parts that help lift it. Only standard duty springs front and rear, JK shocks front and rear, factory control arms, steering parts, track bar and sway bar. Only thing that’s not factory is the bushings and brackets for the sway bar.

No I repainted it with whatever colors my parents had when I first got my MJ. So it’s still the original one as far as I know. My grandfather passed and so I can’t ask him but I can’t see him having done a damn thing except replace the fuel pump like he said he did before my ownership.

4.2L parts. Or you could go HO

Its almost like it’s pushed to one side and I’ve when I have replaced the track bar a couple times, I still have this issue present.

Funny thing is I’m not. But I feel like I’m replacing the links every 6 months due to the bushings coming out of the link and failing bushings for the sway bar. I’ll have to snap some pics but I’m leaning towards I need a new sway bar.

No broken but the way they are, the sway bar keeps forcing the bushing out of the link and keeps trashing the bushings that sandwich the sway bar. Otherwise it’s all factory style replacement links.

So ever since I have had my MJ my sway bar has destroyed the links, or the axle has. One of the two. But there is no damage to either. Anyone else have this issue before? Really don’t want to do a front axle swap but a sway bar swap is more feasible. And my MJ hasn’t take any damage that would cause the sway bar to do this. Now at the moment I do have some front end clunking at the moment and I have replaced the track bar before and the sway bar links have still failed after about 6 months. I don't know if the bar has been swapped ever. I have done the remove the bar, install the links and then install the bar thinking it was an alignment issue and no change with the issue.

This right here is why I need to get all my manuals in a PDF. I think I have this one.

I think it’s another source.

I’ll shoot you a PM shortly to send it along.

MS-1700 the original tool and I think there was a Chrysler DRB cartridge system in the 90’s that could read it. I do have a busted REM tool….doesn’t power on. I think I shorted it.

56001938 receiver 56000212 is dealer installed AC expansion valve 83501907 is factory expansion valve. 83505070 compressor.

Oh shoot! Sorry, got busy the past couple nights. I can get a couple part numbers this morn. Give me a few.

Yeah that one should work and yes I totally forgot the O-rings. You’ll need to change those too.

Easy. You can keep your original hoses so long they aren’t cracked or tearing. You’ll basically need a new expansion valve, dryer and compressor. If you plan on converting. Course if you want to use the R12, there still might be parts out there for R12

That looks for the 4.0L. Has it not been converted yet? I’ll get part numbers for a dryer and expansion valve too for ya.

The sanden 708 is just a 7 piston version of the 508, 508 was standard with AC for a bit. I think the 708 was found only on the 4.0 though. But I think you have a compressor with a pulley for a 4.0L, can any 4.0L guys with AC confirm this? I recommend trying to stick with sanden as they were the OEM supplier for AMC and Chrysler, if they’re available. I’ll provide some part numbers for you this evening so you can find the right compressor.

Well it depends on the pulley. Hell someone could’ve bought a compressor for a 4.0L not knowing if there was a difference which between the two is marginal unless you get the sanden 708. I’d just get a new compressor and dryer and charge the system. If that’s your plan. But a AC delete pulley would be a 4.0L one but even then an AC delete is more just changing the brackets out to a alt only one.

I think the 4.0 used the same pulley but don’t quote me on that. I’d have to double check that too.