eaglescout526

I’ll have to look at my 88 parts manual and see if it’s in there. That being said, if anyone was to go this route, how would you set it up so the electric brakes would work on a trailer? I don’t plan to use or tow a trailer that uses a type 2 plug but it would be really nice to just have that as a worst case or a simple move 15 ft.

Yes. 84-86 clusters had two different boards for the tach. One for the 4cyl and one for the V6. Granted the 6 should work fine with a 4.0L which are more common than a 2.5L 84-86 cluster. I don't know what the difference is and I would suspect a resistor or two but I am awful with electronics.

It is a PCV. The front most hose goes to the air box, the rear goes to the base of the throttle body. If the original hose is still there at the base of the TB, I would bet its slipping off and needs to be replaced or just zip tied on.

Well don’t be afraid to really jam the probes in there. Hell unplug it and then jam the probes in and then plug it back in

TPS is pretty easy to back probe. Your probes don’t have the cones on them do they? If you use the probes and just follow the wire into the protective boot of the weather pack, it will go right in and give you a reading. Now high idle on a 2.5L would lead me to a vac issue first. I used to have such on occasion where the hose from the bottom of the manifold would come off and create a high idle for me like 1100-1300. The hose in question would go to the back portion on top of the valve cover.

We have only ever seen one set of original AMC louvers

Same goes for me. I found it in the electrical manual but nothing in the parts manual which has me confused

Ok I did a little more digging and read the diag portion of the manual and it says it is a module on the master cylinder(not the sentry fluid sensor). FYI the manual I am reading is for 1985, my 84 manual doesnt have a lot believe it or not, but it has the basics. I am gonna look in the parts manual. Now I am curious if anyone has seen such a module that wasnt the late ABS stuff.

I know its not MJ and Pete I can move it to the pub if necessary but I do want a lot of eyes and thoughts on this. So Chunk now has the trailer harness hooked up and wires are crimped into terminals to match the electric manual minus power from the power seats and mirrors wire, I see this little note and I am wondering and I have my doubts given how little XJs we are seeing these days but someone mustve seen something like this. It says the wire is coiled and taped to harness is a similar fashion like the cargo lamp wire on the MJ. Now I havent exactly dug around the electrical manual for this electric brakes but I am curious if anyone on here has seen or knows about such.

Yes. The type I is the one with the screw posts. The nuts hold the board to the back of the tach and do come off to make servicing the board very easy.

Luckily all the gauges are easy to fix, someone could have over tightened one of the mounting screws and broke the solder and copper wire. I don't know much about the gas gauge but if it functions like the big one, it could have the same issue as above. Thats the down fall between the type II and type I is that the older one just have the prongs that slide into their spot and the newer one has room for more issues if someone who doesnt know what theyre touching could break. As for the type I tach, just find the resistor and replace it. Would be nice to have an adjustable pot on that style too. I vaguely recall sending someone a couple type I tachs to have them fixed/modified with a pot. I don't know who that was or what happened to them.

This one is the one where resistors fail, I wish I knew how to fix these and or make them 4cyl tachs but I do not. This one does have the adjustable pot on top. won't fit in your old cluster housing but swapping to the newer cluster is just a simple matter of changing out the speedo cable to 87-90.

Wait. You have an 86. Full cluster package. Is it the blue faces or the later type II that is black? If it’s blue and stock to your MJ, there is not an adjustable pot and one of the resistors or capacitor on the board behind the tach has failed. Now the type II early 87 full cluster(blue face) and later type II have an adjustable pot. HO, I have no idea if it does or doesn’t have an adjustable pot.

Don’t tell my wife. I think she knows this but still. Lol.

Lol fair enough

Don’t you have Disneyland? Lol.

Thanks and no problem! As far as eye protection, you can if the wind from the engine bothers you but I wouldn’t expect anything to fly up and out at you.

Damn, missed one to edit out. Its fixed.

*ZZ TRIM STYLE ZZ - BUCKET SEAT -ZZ ADA LIGHT PACKAGE AGR AGY Seating Group AHL HEAVY DUTY INSUL PACKAGE AJZ AWJ Visibility Group CGW CKA CARPETS - CLASS I SHORT PILE 8 - 12 OZ CUF FULL LENGTH FRONT CONSOLE DDQ Transmission - 5-Speed Manual DSA LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL EPD ENGINE - 2.5L I4 TBI GAS GAC ALL WINDOWS - TINTED GLASS GEC Window - Left Side, Front, Sliding GFD SLIDING RR WINDOW GTZ MIRRORS - MANUAL REMOTE HCC HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach JGB Clock - Digital JHA WINDSHIELD WIPERS - DELUXE JJA CIGAR LIGHTER - FRT COMP LAP FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT LBB COURTESY LAMPS (BELOW PANEL) LMA HALOGEN HEADLAMPS LPE EXTERIOR CARGO LIGHT MBJ Bumper - Front, Black MCA FRONT BUMPER GUARDS MCB REAR BUMPER GUARDS MDA FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED MUX MWB SPORT BAR MWF BOX SIDE RAILS NAA ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM) NFA TANK - 23 GAL FUEL SBA POWER STEERING SCG LEATHER STRG WHEEL - EURO/SPORT TYPE SUA TILT STEERING COLUMN WJD WHEELS - 15 X 7.0 STYLED STEEL XPD Build date 4/20/86 Body code JP62 It feels good to provide stuff like this again.

I have the build sheet. I will paste it here tonight.

Done.

Unless you’re absolutely hard set on keeping the pukegoat BA10/5, everyone is gonna tell you to ditch it and get the AX15. And yes parts for that trans are hard to find just like the Renault turbo diesel from the early years.

Straight from the AMC|Jeep INJ. TBI 8980010380 factory/dealer manual Book: text from the book will follow Me: suggestions or tips will follow Book: Adjustment of the ISA motor plunger is necessary only to establish the initial position of the plunger after the motor has been replaced. Me: In most cases, it is to fix what the PO or a Shadetree mechanic shouldnt have touched. Book: WARNING: Use extreme caution when the engine is operating. Do not stand in direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear loose clothing. Me: Yes I feel this is necessary to include in the write up as you will be running your 2.5L at 3kRPM. Book: Remove the air bonnet and start the engine. Me: You want to remove the plastic cover for the throttle body like so(not the base the bonnet clips to, this is just an example of what you want to expose): Book: Allow engine to attain normal operating temperature(upper radiator hose hot) Turn the A/C off if equipped Connect a tachometer to diagnostic terminals D1-1 and D1-3. Me: Or use your dash's tach or the REM tool from nickintime Book: Turn the ignition off. The ISA motor plunger SHOULD move to the fully extended position. Me: If your ISA is not doing this, I highly recommend rebuilding it, all that is inside is plastic gears and grease that more than likely need to be cleaned. If the motor still is not working, the motor itself can be removed to be cleaned but can be tough to do if you are not used to working with small motors. HO scale train motors are great practice motors just as an example. I do offer rebuilding services as well. Book: With the ISA motor plunger fully extended, disconnect the ISA motor wire harness connector and start the engine. Me: Its gonna get loud, please wear ear protection too! Book: With this condition, the engine idle speed should be 3500 RPM (±200). If the speed is not correct, turn the hex head screw (A) on the end of the plunger to provide an engine speed of 3500 RPM Me: Now the next section says to fully retract the motor, you can not do that with it disconnected from the ECU. There was a tool back in the day that you plugged into the ISA to control the motor. Now it says the closed throttle switch should not contact the throttle lever, this is BS as if it didnt, the engine would basically choke on idle and you would end up with a constant rev hunting condition as the ECU will use the ISA to compensate over and over(Now 86 2.5L's might not have the throttle lever touch at all and thats fine, this book was written August of 1986 so it covers 87 and 86 but not what any revisions they did to the 2.5L's of 88-90). Ignore this and achieve your 3500 RPM speed. Shut down the engine or connect the ISA if youre a bit brave to do that while at that high of speed, the ECU should bring down the idle once it is plugged back in. I recommend just turning it off, plugging it in and then starting it back up to watch it operate as it should. Now put it all back together. Book says once you start it back up you should see the tach read 3500 for a second and then come down, I have never ever seen mine do this, I would speculate that the ECU reacts pretty quick and brings down the idle before it gets that high. But this is how you adjust your ISA, do not touch it again once you have done this, if you have a high idle or low idle and the ISA isnt moving, it needs to be rebuilt. If the ISA operates as it should and you have high or low idle, there is something else wrong and the ISA should not be touched or used as "something to get you by" on your daily. Feel free to drop any questions.

Oh yeah! I forgot duh. Dealerconnect won't let him pull any data. I think I can work some strings on Monday. Let me see what I can do.

HO years, 91-00. Not common either but it seems Renix 2.5L's are more commonly found and scrapped than the MPFI set up which is an upgrade(if you want to work with the HO system) if you can find a donor XJ that has it all.