eaglescout526

Hey @Salvagedcircuit are you adding in speakers?

You might be. I think one is a ground or it goes to the other side. I forget.

That should be the speaker connector. I can look on my XJ this evening but someone will beat me to it.

Yeah the turbo, intercooler and the 5 speed is the only configuration it came. I think 4wd was optional with the engine but don’t quote me on that.

An 89 with a 2.1L. Whadda ya know.

Interesting. Okie dokie For the start of the last 8 of the VIN is the year GT-86 HT-87 JT-88 KL-89 LL-90 ML-91 NL-92 Would be an interesting swap if that’s the case. You can also post your VIN in the registry to get a build date and sheet.

I wish I could figure this one out. It uses the same terminals the later Jeep Eagle radio connectors use.

Doesn’t seem right that you have a 91 with a 2.1L unless someone swapped it. Are you sure it’s not the 2.5L that Chrysler used? The Renault 2.1L start motor numbers 8982775042 or 82775042 8953002577 or 53002577

You have to add them. They connect off the speaker connector that goes into the door.

You have an 91 with the Renault 2.1L? AMC dropped the 2.1L in the Jeep line up in 86. Youre in a better position than us in the states as that engine is more common over there than it is here. I can’t imagine you would be having issues locating a starter. I can look in my parts manual in the morning and post it here later, but it will be an AMC number and not a Renault one…..actually it might be a Renault number. I’d have to look. And yes the Cherokee also had the Renault 2.1L from 84-86.

84-89 will have the small pack-con connection. I have no idea what 90 has.

That’s Chrysler for ya.

Friendly PSA about this thread. For those of you new or haven’t viewed this thread yet, this is a thread dedicated to the exciting hunt of finding NOS parts for this era of XJ and MJ. This is not a thread of what’s for sale that others have. PLEASE do not pester members for what they have found unless they do list it for sale. Thank you and enjoy the neat finds!

2.5L

One goes on the left side and the other goes on the right. I don’t recall which one is which but if you look at the mounting points on the lower dash panel, you’ll see where which one goes. Not gonna lie, the tweeters may not be in the best location, but I do enjoy mine.

Yeah it uses a traditional diff vs the viscous coupling in the 229 but otherwise the same tcase. I know both the 228/9 have to have some motion to change but I even tried rotating and even lining up the gears and couldn’t get the mode to change out of the Jeep.

Funny enough the 229 would allow for twin sticks already. The mode select rail is just controlled by a vacuum actuator vs yourself. So if you eliminated that actuator and set up a shifting system for the mode, you could have a twin stick 229.

Interesting. I’ll just stick the pill in and I found it in the diagram. On the web link you provided, it’s no55. I speculate this as the ball detent thing that attaches to the spring is one piece and the “ball” they refer to is the pill shaped thing.

I have this tab open believe it or not. Strikes me as the same as my XJ FSM. But yeah both don’t mention that pill. I’m gonna put it in and put some assembly grease on everything that moves so I can make sure this case will go in every position. That being said, should I run it without the pill and get my self 2 lo? Sounds like it wouldn’t be a bad option to have if it’s as easy as not putting that pill back in.

Nope, I get message emails and emails about the registry, course I don't need that email anymore as I can run VINs.

I saw the exploded diagram as well and never saw the ball. And I know this thing couldnt have spawned out of thin air in my garage, The 229 could probably live without it but I will try to get it back together this evening and see what I find. In no rush, not like I am gonna get it installed tonight or tomorrow or soon haha. I do have the hard part done which is the needle bearings.

That’s the problem haha. I don’t remember where it went. I did put it back last night, when I shifted the main rail, it locked me out of shifting it back at all. Even when I moved the case so gravity would work against the pin it still locked the rail in place which also lead me to think I need grease or something in all these moving parts before it gets filled with fluid to make sure I have proper operation. I’d hate to put this case in and have shifting issues right away.

So I am getting the 229 rebuild going, I got a good chunk of the way last night. Today I decided to test the shifting, which is what made me open up, investigate and rebuild the t-case in the first place. And its improved but its still not shifting easily with hi-n-lo and 2wd-4wd is still being stubborn but it seems like it will shift fine with pressure on the mode fork. Now I removed the main shaft to test this as I wasnt getting much cooperation shifting with the shaft in. Is there anything I can do to? Grease maybe? Maybe I am missing something or I need to make sure all surfaces are smooth? I also have a part that I have no idea where it goes, but it could also not go with the t-case at all. I am open to suggestions as I have never rebuilt a t-case and a 229 is not the best case to start with hahaha but I enjoy a challenge. Its a somple case really, I think its because theres more levers and forks than a normal case and even the 242. here's the part: here's where I think it goes: But I tried to put it there, it worked until it locked the shift rod in place and had to take it apart to get it out. Does anyone recognize this part?

Got the first set of needle bearings on, tough to do, grease helped alot, had to apply more as some kept falling off. And now I am finished with the hardest part of this rebuild. I am hoping that it will shift through everything like it should. .

I thought I recognized that MJ. Didn’t know the guy sold it. Worked pretty damn hard to do the whole limited thing to it.