eaglescout526

Don’t go too crazy with that. It could also be a sign of the drum pads going down if they haven’t been done in a while.

I’m talking to fill the tank with gas haha Correct. And I think that’s where the OP is hitting his snag on getting the hose in there. He is probably better off removing the sending unit or putting power to the pump to get the gas out.

Yeah it’s how ever much money you want to put into the tank haha. Chances are you have a 16. If it’s original it should have the info tag on it either under or by the sending unit hole

Long beds only came with either a 16 or 23 gallon tank. 18 is for the short bed.

You can delete maybe one or two lines but most are pretty essential to the proper operation.

That’s just the harness. Believe it or not the 4.0L uses the same harness style, so if you want to replace the harness itself, you can get the 4.0 one but you’ll have to trim the bigger lines and get some flexible vac line to make the connections. But the hoses are glued in.

Vac leak or the ISA is sticking.

You can always unplug the hose to the MAP sensor and see if it changes.

I’ll have to look at my 88 parts manual and see if it’s in there. That being said, if anyone was to go this route, how would you set it up so the electric brakes would work on a trailer? I don’t plan to use or tow a trailer that uses a type 2 plug but it would be really nice to just have that as a worst case or a simple move 15 ft.

Yes. 84-86 clusters had two different boards for the tach. One for the 4cyl and one for the V6. Granted the 6 should work fine with a 4.0L which are more common than a 2.5L 84-86 cluster. I don't know what the difference is and I would suspect a resistor or two but I am awful with electronics.

It is a PCV. The front most hose goes to the air box, the rear goes to the base of the throttle body. If the original hose is still there at the base of the TB, I would bet its slipping off and needs to be replaced or just zip tied on.

Well don’t be afraid to really jam the probes in there. Hell unplug it and then jam the probes in and then plug it back in

TPS is pretty easy to back probe. Your probes don’t have the cones on them do they? If you use the probes and just follow the wire into the protective boot of the weather pack, it will go right in and give you a reading. Now high idle on a 2.5L would lead me to a vac issue first. I used to have such on occasion where the hose from the bottom of the manifold would come off and create a high idle for me like 1100-1300. The hose in question would go to the back portion on top of the valve cover.

We have only ever seen one set of original AMC louvers

Same goes for me. I found it in the electrical manual but nothing in the parts manual which has me confused

Ok I did a little more digging and read the diag portion of the manual and it says it is a module on the master cylinder(not the sentry fluid sensor). FYI the manual I am reading is for 1985, my 84 manual doesnt have a lot believe it or not, but it has the basics. I am gonna look in the parts manual. Now I am curious if anyone has seen such a module that wasnt the late ABS stuff.

I know its not MJ and Pete I can move it to the pub if necessary but I do want a lot of eyes and thoughts on this. So Chunk now has the trailer harness hooked up and wires are crimped into terminals to match the electric manual minus power from the power seats and mirrors wire, I see this little note and I am wondering and I have my doubts given how little XJs we are seeing these days but someone mustve seen something like this. It says the wire is coiled and taped to harness is a similar fashion like the cargo lamp wire on the MJ. Now I havent exactly dug around the electrical manual for this electric brakes but I am curious if anyone on here has seen or knows about such.

Yes. The type I is the one with the screw posts. The nuts hold the board to the back of the tach and do come off to make servicing the board very easy.

Luckily all the gauges are easy to fix, someone could have over tightened one of the mounting screws and broke the solder and copper wire. I don't know much about the gas gauge but if it functions like the big one, it could have the same issue as above. Thats the down fall between the type II and type I is that the older one just have the prongs that slide into their spot and the newer one has room for more issues if someone who doesnt know what theyre touching could break. As for the type I tach, just find the resistor and replace it. Would be nice to have an adjustable pot on that style too. I vaguely recall sending someone a couple type I tachs to have them fixed/modified with a pot. I don't know who that was or what happened to them.

This one is the one where resistors fail, I wish I knew how to fix these and or make them 4cyl tachs but I do not. This one does have the adjustable pot on top. won't fit in your old cluster housing but swapping to the newer cluster is just a simple matter of changing out the speedo cable to 87-90.

Wait. You have an 86. Full cluster package. Is it the blue faces or the later type II that is black? If it’s blue and stock to your MJ, there is not an adjustable pot and one of the resistors or capacitor on the board behind the tach has failed. Now the type II early 87 full cluster(blue face) and later type II have an adjustable pot. HO, I have no idea if it does or doesn’t have an adjustable pot.

Don’t tell my wife. I think she knows this but still. Lol.

Lol fair enough

Don’t you have Disneyland? Lol.

Thanks and no problem! As far as eye protection, you can if the wind from the engine bothers you but I wouldn’t expect anything to fly up and out at you.