eaglescout526

Oh shoot! Sorry, got busy the past couple nights. I can get a couple part numbers this morn. Give me a few.

Yeah that one should work and yes I totally forgot the O-rings. You’ll need to change those too.

Easy. You can keep your original hoses so long they aren’t cracked or tearing. You’ll basically need a new expansion valve, dryer and compressor. If you plan on converting. Course if you want to use the R12, there still might be parts out there for R12

That looks for the 4.0L. Has it not been converted yet? I’ll get part numbers for a dryer and expansion valve too for ya.

The sanden 708 is just a 7 piston version of the 508, 508 was standard with AC for a bit. I think the 708 was found only on the 4.0 though. But I think you have a compressor with a pulley for a 4.0L, can any 4.0L guys with AC confirm this? I recommend trying to stick with sanden as they were the OEM supplier for AMC and Chrysler, if they’re available. I’ll provide some part numbers for you this evening so you can find the right compressor.

Well it depends on the pulley. Hell someone could’ve bought a compressor for a 4.0L not knowing if there was a difference which between the two is marginal unless you get the sanden 708. I’d just get a new compressor and dryer and charge the system. If that’s your plan. But a AC delete pulley would be a 4.0L one but even then an AC delete is more just changing the brackets out to a alt only one.

I think the 4.0 used the same pulley but don’t quote me on that. I’d have to double check that too.

I don’t have a side or good top pic at the moment. I’ll snap some for you this evening.

Yeah absolutely! Let me find you a good pic right quick. I have a NOS OEM one in use but it lines up pretty well.

Yeah looks like a replacement compressor. As far as alignment, it’s possible it’s no longer aligned.

What does the barcode on the compressor say?

No problem!

I used to message him on here regularly. If I remember right he was doing a lot like moving.

No that’s correct leave it alone. It’s bent that way so there’s more leverage to push on the clutch springs. Those forks are next to near impossible to find, but also the better set up for a Renix era 2.5L clutch.

Interesting. Someone swapped the header on yours if it wasnt you. Late 91-92 used just a stick on letter set. That being said, I have a smooth "e", its NOS, not sure if you want to go that route.

Too bad I can’t tell the other street haha. I’ve seen some odd cars here and alot of beat to hell ones but not this one driving around. There’s a story behind this one I want to hear.

I like how the newer white one has an AMC part number despite being from the Chrysler era.

Yeah no wiring is the same. 84-88 are wired for quartz. 89-90 are wired for the crap LCD to match the crap LCD radio. Then 91 had a quartz like clock.

Don’t forget. 84-87 got brushed letters and 88-90 got just smooth polished letters. Which all I have are brushed letters.

System sentry uses the molex blue plug for the clock. Not the metri. I think 87-88 were the weird years that the plug was almost fully populated. I speculate AMC was gonna have something else. Maybe a outside temp reader. Course that’s speculation. Following the wires could lead to dead ends or splices.

I’m gonna kinda use this as a documentation thread as well now seeing how even SJ guys just throw them the wayside. Fun fact, if you cut off or remove the viscous coupling from the differential assembly, you will have an NP228. Neat to know. Any how, it looks like a good chunk of my shifting issues stemmed from the annulus gear. No I didn’t put it in wrong but apparently doing it how the FSM says to do it and it skip a step and just put the whole gear assembly in is pretty important unbeknownst to me. I thought hey, I could just put the whole gear assembly in without taking it apart. Well taking it apart helped line up the range rod to where I shouldn’t have any more issues and it seems like 2wd-4wd is working as it should now that I have the main shaft and mode rail back in. This tcase is a tricky one. But I should be able to press on now. Now a new question, I have the system sentry along with NOS probe sensors for the fluid level. Where should I put a hole for the sensor or should I attempt to do such?

Bleeder is factory.

I found one. It’s new, I highly don’t recommend trying to reuse the original nut that was on, I broke a new set trying to reuse the nut that holds them in place. I’d try to use one of those clips that hold the salve cylinder in place on the manual transmissions.

Are we quoting hitchhikers? Haha.